Koofy Smacker

The charger I am using is a Dual Pro Onboard 3 bank with 6 amps on each bank. After a full tournament day (and I ride the trolling motor a lot) it takes about 3-4 hours to recharge the batteries fully. ^ any modern 6 amp charger has something seriously wrong with it if it takes days to recharge. Ive ran mine down to 20 % before and it still charged in less than 10 hours. To answer the OP's question. Yes it is possible to use one bank dedicated to two batteries in parallel however I would not recommend it. First it will take forever to charge since its essentially double the size of the battery, and second, if they are not exactly the same age and size it can overcharge one while undercharging the other.

So do I.. I should take pictures of them. Total crack that expanded about half a millimeter wide down the length of the bait. And it was on B2's and B3's, not just one style.

I believe the Stratos 210 Elite is on the same hull that the later champions were built on

If you fish electric lakes this can seriously hurt your cranking battery. Running electronics on it all day and then leaving it for a few days leaves it discharged. Do it a few times without charging after every trip can really compromise the battery. Thats why it is best to have a charger with a bank for every battery

paint the weight black.

Nope I got them over the winter after they were bought out. Tried multiple times and no response at all

Ive tried to get in contact with them a few times and had no luck whatsoever. I bought a dozen of their cranks, and 4 have already split from the bill to the back hook hanger on the bait. 2 have been thrown once and the other two have sat in my box for a month and they already did that. Extremely frustrating and I wont ever buy another bait from them again. What Im trying to say is getting in contact seems to be a lost cause. Tacke collector forums or just internet searches seem to be a better route

That's true but how long have you had the rod for. That's all I was trying to get at there

My issues have been the guides breaking. Ceramic inserts cracking and guides bending. Starting to get on my nerves. In terms of the blanks themselves and the ergonomics; I love it. Will I buy another? No

What exactly do you mean when you say "outboard charger"? When you get the outboard, are you going to have it hooked up to a battery? If so, it needs to be separate from the trolling motor batteries. As for a charger, get one that has an independent output for each battery. These stay on the battery and just plug it in and go. If you get a portable single bank charger then you need to pull all the batteries and charge them one by one before you go out next which can take hours.

All you can do is ask. FWIW theres no feasible way they could blame the guides being crooked on you unless you stripped the entire blank and re wrapped them; however if youve been fishing with it this long its probably not hurting anything, and they may be reluctant to take it back because you just noticed it. BUT... ask them, who knows

I do know that when I really lay into a fish in heavy vegetation with braid it makes a squealing sound on the guides and the vegetation as well. Any wind also adds to the "whistle" tones it makes

Weight in the set up is a big deal with such finesse presentations for me. Also I am insistent that an extra fast tip is needed to get proper action on the bait. A fast action is going to bow a lot more than an extra fast, especially in deeper water with the bigger weights while the extra fast keeps you connected a lot better. That said, I am using a St. Croix Legend Xtreme 6'10" ML XF with a Pflueger Patriarch 9530x and 6 lb fluoro. Whole setup weighs in right at 10 oz and is by far the lightest most responsive setup I have used for finesse fishing.

That is fine for the side bunks, but on a related note just be sure not to use it as the main bunks that the boat rides on. The composite decking materials have no strength whatsoever and will bow incredibly under only a little weight from the boat. Wood all the way underneath. Plus the stuff is expensive

Heck recoils make noise with fluoro. You must not be using recoils if you think they dont make noise

I dont have exacts for you, however from my experience I have seen the following. Normally from the time I see beds being formed till I see no more bass on beds is 2-3 weeks. That time frame varies due to the weather but its a general rule of thumb. Water temperature also plays havoc with the length and timing of each cycle. Right now, Ive seen beds for about a week and a half in the local lake. Bass are just starting to sit on them full time and some of the big girls are moving up and they are "courting" each other. This is generally the lull where they are really hard to catch but they are not in unison with each other so move around and cover the banks. Courting only lasts a few days, which then results in some very hungry protective bass which are extremely easy to pick off given the right lure. They will hang out for 1-2 weeks depending on water temp and weather obviously till the point that they leave. No idea how this really coincides with the actual biology that's just what I have witnessed year after year.

ALWAYS THROW BACK. Only time they really wont hit it again is if you actually got a hook into them enough to get them to make a run or come to the top before they pop off. If you rip a plastic out of their mouth or they spit it they usually will sit tight and hit again. If they blow up on a topwater or another reaction strike type bait, try having a plastic rigged up and when they miss is, instantly toss in with the plastic

My answer, use a size 1 g-lock hook. Texas rig it. No more hookup issues and helps hold the bait more perpendicular to the line.

Also, I bought mine when Cabelas was having their employee pricing sale so I walked out with it (after tax) for 156 and change

Ive got one. The smaller 9530 size which I use for drop shotting only. Awesome reel. Probably my favorite out of the ones that I have in the boat now. Ive got it loaded with 6 lb test, and brought in a 40 inch musky the other day on it no problem. Gave the drag a test and it performed flawlessly. I did compare it to the stradic ci4 and it was considerably lighter and upon reeling feels much more connected, not "fluid" like the Shimanos. Now I am a diehard shimano guy, but these reels are worth it.

Obviously two different opinions and we arent going to change eachothers minds. But to answer your questions which you posed as statements: -I know it isnt completely invisible. But fluoro coated lines have caused me kink and break issues in the past which when you put over a thousand hours in a year like I do can cause issues an awful lot. I dont like the stuff at all. -I did not claim it had no stretch, I claimed it had less stretch, which it does. Depending on lb test of course. -Breakage on fluoro is closer to being its labeled lb test while mono is usually underrated, resulting in the increased diameter. Not sure why diameter is such an issue with you either Anyway, dont want to get this thread too off track for the poster. Hopefully you got something useful out of our rants. I guess you could say it comes down to personal preference.

Swimbait. Sometimes it takes up to half an hour on one fish, sometimes the first cast. But keep swimming it around over the bed, on the bed, in the bed. Kill it, jump it, hit the fish. Tick the thing off. Today I had a 6 lber on a bed, fished it for 20 minutes and it wouldnt budge, then all the sudden 4 casts in a row it swiped at my bait, the last time I killed it and she inhaled it. It pays off sometimes.

First off, YoZuri and P-Line Fluoroclear are not fluorocarbon lines. They are fluorocarbon coated. Hence the reason why they are so cheap compared to 100% fluoro lines. Basically they give you more abrasion resistance. The reason fluoro is clear in water is because its density is nearly exact to that of water, making its light refraction about the same as water letting you "see through it". Fluoro coated lines have a normal line core, taking away the mainstay property of a fluoro, invisibility. Great advertising if they are getting you to think that its invisible. Fluoro is only a gain when the fish get to look at your bait, or in any possibility where they can become line shy. Reaction strikes have no chance, 0% chance of having line seen. Moving baits, such as spinnerbaits, and crankbaits do not need clear line. A good mono will achieve more than a fluoro in this case. What do you look for in a crankbait rod? The answer notoriously is a medium to medium heavy power rod with a moderate to moderate fast action to "let the trebles get a hold and to not rip them out of the fishes mouth". So, that said, why buy a line that is known for less stretch than mono? Stretch is good with treble hooks or whenever you are fishing baits that have a good chance of getting a poor hookset with. I agree, fluoro has it's advantages, however all the hype these days about everything fluoro or braid is a total waste of money. Gin clear water such as Lake Powell is a different story where you can see the bottom in 40+ ft of water. But 99% of water in this country has a stain making these lines pointless for moving baits. Just my .02. If it gives me an advantage at all, I will do it. But not here, more disadvantages than advantages.

Jig- 15-17 lb fluorocarbon. Great line around rocks and cover Spinnerbait- No reason for expensive fluoro since its a reaction bite, 12-15 lb mono is perfect. Also gives a little stretch which aids in hookups Drop Shot- depends on cover for lb test. Fluoro either way but 6-8 lb test for open water and a little more cover respectively Buzzbait- NOT fluoro. It sinks and makes it hard to keep the bait up. No advantages too it. 12-15 lb mono depending on if your over weeds or open water Crankbait- Depends on what cranks you throw. For example a deep diver I would go with 12 lb fluoro. Thin diameter and sinks so it lets you get your bait deeper. Squarebills I would go 15 lb because your running them through cover. Copoly/mono/fluoro for a shallow crank doesnt really matter however I use a 15 lb copoly so it stays shallower and it gives me a little more stretch to keep the hooks from ripping out.

Yes it is. Example, going down the shoreline throwing at everything. Stumps, trees, weeds, ledges, points. But your only catching them right under trees. Eliminate the water between trees. Then while fishing the trees you notice that they are only on the north side and get very few bites on other trees on the south side. Eliminate that. Then once again while fishing these North side trees your only catching them on trees next to deeper water, with the fish right behind the shade line. There you go. Every single bite gives feedback as to what they are doing. Yes, you may catch a few off that pattern, however eliminating the water in an area where you arent getting lots of bites can really increase your time fishing water that is holding fish. Saves an awful lot of time. They ALWAYS relate to SOMETHING. However, and this is the big however. Day to day this changes. Prefishing and getting stuck on one pattern like this can hurt you dramatically if something changes and they move even if it is 10 ft into deeper water. That's where the adjustments come into play.