gulfcaptain

Any water filling piru Tom?

So tie a San Diego, a San diego, and a San diego. Doesn't slip on braid, if you want you can tie a double San Diego but not needed. I do put 9 wraps with braid though instead of 5 with fc or mono. A Palomar if I'm dropshotting. A snell if I'm punching/flipping, an Alberto, braid to either mono or fc, and a uni to uni for backing.

So as many, used to just use my livescope to fish, but after purchasing a 93uhd, now have 2 units on the bow, the network hub, and unloading all my Lowrance units to hopefully put 2 of the 106 units in the console. The charts are much better, the depth shading, water offset, ease of using, and their customer service is awesome. Had an outdated g3ultra chip I purchased thinking it was current (2019 edition) over Christmas, and unfortunately only have a smartphone now, Garmin sent a new 2022 chip to me at no charge. Overall impressed at the units, ease of use, clarity, and picture. We won't even talk about the price point of the echomap units compared to the other 2 major players.

I've anchored in areas I new were productive on a tournament before I had a spot lock trolling motor. Set up, hung the anchor, shut off the sidescan transducer and picked away.

Yep, he can have all his gen 3 units back if he wants. Doubt he will but electronics don't add any value. Trolling motor figure a little. But the value is in the boat as well as you need to be more concerned about the motor on the back of the boat. If that motor is in bad shape don't care about all the rest, just lipstick on a pig at that point. Don't look at the shiny stuff, look at the boat and the motor.

So looks like they are interested in the school of bait, they're grouped up huddled together as well. The minnow and goldfish on the hook are back hooked, not really swimming and not looking natural at all. Odds are the feed instinct takes over when theres a group of food opposed to a struggling bait fish that can't swim and doesn't look natural

No tags slipping off? Need a new set and have looked at these just haven't gotten any personal opinions

So I honestly wouldn't buy a boat unless I can test drive it. I want a print out on the motor to see hours and maintenance. Check the trailer, dig through the boat, investigate. Look in all compartments, batteries, thru hull conections, plumbing, transom bolts. Any electronics shouldn't matter if there are any as 2018 models are outdated now. Price is always negotiable. Look how things are mounted, anything loose, look under the boat. Yes shimmy under that thing and look at it the bottom for any kind of stress cracks in the hull. Don't impulse buy. Just do your due diligence. And almost forgot, if it has a prop, look at it. Any dings could have lower unit damage that may not be known about. Make sure your motor is rock solid and once you decide it's the boat you want, ask them what the real number is, bought mine used and was listed at 18k, but was sold for 13.5. After my add ons it came out to 18k.

So take 2 stick worms, dingers are perfect for this btw. Now pull and rub one till you feel rough it up, dull it, whatever you want to call it. Now hold both worms horizontal in the same spot. Look at the difference of the two worms as one that is new is stiffer then the one you roughed up. This will give your stick worm more action as it sinks and is wacky rigged.

Gotta keep your water turned over and oxygenated. I don't add frozen bottles, not to mention running around the lake with hard objects floating in the well with the fish.....not the best thing for them to be hit by. Most additives don't remove ammonia from the water that are sold as live well treatments, but they do turn the well into a lovely shade of blue which is an antibacterial and fungal medication. (Years in the aquarium trade) but you can go to a local pet store, find a additive that removes ammonia, chroline, and clorimine that you can add to your well to help remove toxins but still need to turn over that water and keep the oxygen high.

To each there own. I still haven't needed to bend frog hooks. Still stand by a bent hook is a damaged hook. I'd rather take my chances on a giant (8+lb fish) without bent hooks then watch her finish the job and come off because she straightened it out buried in the junk as you try and drag her out. But then that's just me.

Throttle plate why the confused look? Would you open a flipping hook, worm hook, trebles on a crankbait? A chatterbait, spinnerbait, or buzzbait? No you wouldn't. So what is with bending frog hooks? You damage the hook, open the gap, definitely make the hook weaker just because it's now opened up. You've changed the angle of the curve and damaged the hooks integrity. I don't know of any other bait people intentionally open the hooks to "help". I miss fish flipping but don't open my flipping hooks, if I bend one out we don't keep using it we throw it away. A bent hook is a damaged hook.

Never bend frog hooks, never understood why. Had partners do this, didn't help them. Like bending out a jig hook and thinking it's gonna help with the weed guard. Bent hooks are damaged hooks imo.

My vote is topwater. And they will eat a full size rat too. Caught a 14" smallie last weekend on a full size rat right at daylight. Also like the full sized pampadour too.

Any of the Falcon Amistad rods. I have 2 of the buccos. One is the OG and the other the sr. And it's an amazing frog rod too. At 7'3" they are perfect.

As a co the more gear you bring the less space you'll have in your little corner. You'll spend more time untangling your rods. 6 is plenty. And you don't know as a co if you're gonna be riding in a nice 521 ranger or you might be in a 17ft tracker. So limit your gear to what you have confidence in. You don't have the same option as the boater.

I 2nd that. Mid 5's 6 at most. Got a lot of head but not much body.

Yes your garmin will find the location as it has a GPS in the unit. You'll be fine

Have the manual one on mine as well.

So hard to tell in that picture. If it is a breaker should have a reset on it as well. Yes you would attach the positive wire to it. It is to keep your wires from overheating and a break in the circuit to not burn up the wires or motor. But hard to tell from your angle.

The other cranking rabbit hole.

So had an older MK Maxxum 36v. Lasted but the torque on it twisted the frame as it was 101lb thrust I believe but was a good motor. The Motorguide X3 isn't a bad motor either, boss has one on his boat. If I was going 24v, I would spend the money on a 24v trolling motor with anchor lock abilities over lithium batteries and go standards then upgrade later. I upgraded mine to one with that and makes fishing much more fun in wind or when you want to fish deep or slow where you can sit and not drift or fight the trolling motor. Just my opinion. And don't know enough about lithium batteries, but may need a different charger as well(don't know for sure). I'd spend more on a trolling motor before upgrading the batteries. But as for your question I would go X3, and if you go MK, step up to the fortrex.

So cranking is a huge rabbit hole as you can see just in a few replies. So basics, color I agree with some, a natural bait fish color, one bright, and a red craw version. I'm not gonna go into lipless, so Rapala makes the DT series, good baits. Strike King as well, 6th sense. All are good. Basics, 1.5 size square bill, then a Rapala DT 6/ Strike King series 3, DT 10/ 3XD. That covers you down to about 12ft. Now here is where I get simple 5XD in a Strike King will cover you to almost 15ft, 6XD is the next and will cover most deep crank needs almost everywhere. You can look at those models and compare to what you're liking and adjust. They are just easy models to refer to in sizes and cover from 3ft to 15+. I normally carry 2 of at least 2 of each color I fish incase you loose one you have a spare.

I plead the 5th as well it's likely way too much and not ending anytime soon.

Always have them on a boat, safety first. Just like a throw cushion, fire extinguisher. Found out in Nevada my auto inflation life jackets weren't applicable unless I was wearing them unless I had a non auto inflation one in the boat. Safety on the water is just that, just like a kill switch. Easier to attach the cord and be safe then accidently get thrown out and have my boat looking to run me over as it circles. Boater safety and rules of the road should be known by all who operate a vessel. Sorry about my rambling.