Jim Mac

Since it's for 2 people, the Pond Prowler.

Thanks, but I'm asking where my rear bunks should end. Flush with the rear of trailer, or overhanging the rear of trailer? If overhanging, how much overhang?

Thanks, but how much is "slightly longer"? 3" 6" 12" ?

Where is the best spot to have the rear of bunks end? Even with the rear of trailer frame? Overhanging the rear of trailer frame? If so, how much overhang? I'm re-doing my bunk boards, and I want to mount them properly. Thanks.

Thanks. I'm not going to use treated lumber anymore. I'm going to use fir, so I don't have to worry about trailer rusting.

Am I right in thinking cedar is not strong enough for bunks? I could use 2X4 or 2X6's. They need to span 42" lying flat.

Thanks again. I never thought of fir.

Thanks. My trailer is a Karavan. Maybe I will call them and see what they say.

Thanks Tom. What I found online mostly states that fasteners need to be "hot dipped galvanized". BUT how do I know if my trailer is hot dipped galvanized? If I use standard pine, any idea how long the bunks would last? I only launch my boat about once per week anyway. And when it sits outside, the bunks won't get wet.

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Is it OK for treated lumber to touch my galvanized trailer? My plan is to bolt treated 2X4's (lying flat, with galv. hardware) to the top of my trailer frame, then mount bunk sliks on top of the treated lumber. I'm getting conflicting opinions on whether or not the treated lumber will cause the galv. trailer to rust. What if I put some sort of barrier between the trailer and treated 2X4's? My other options seem to be: 1) Cedar 2X4's. Probably not strong enough though. 2) Regular 2X4 pine. I don't know how long they would last though. Whatever I use needs to span 42.5"(the span between the 2 trailer frame members. Thanks.

Thanks. I was told that treated lumber will cause my galvanized trailer to rust. Is this true? My plan is to bolt treated 2X4's to the top of my galvanized trailer frame, then mount bunk sliks on top of that. BUT the 2X4's need to span 44"(lying flat) between the 2 trailer frames. If treated is not a good idea, what should I use? I thought about cedar, but didn't think it would be strong enough.

Is it OK to use galvanized bolts with treated lumber? Or is stainless steel a must? Thanks.

Thanks. I sent Mike a PM, but haven't heard back yet. I'm wondering what product he used.

No outboard. Electric only.

My trailer currently has roller bunks on it.

If so, how have they worked and how have they held up? How long have they been on your trailer? I'm thinking of using cutting boards instead of buying the Ultimate bunk boards. I thought about mounting them right on top of treated 2X4's. Good idea?

JFrancho, the problem for me is I fish a couple lakes that have very shallow launch sites, and I normally fish alone. My boat will not float off or be pushed off easily. And the second problem is my bad back.

That would defeat the purpose of the Ultimate bunk boards, which is ease of launching and loading back up.

Did you buy the 2X4 or 2X6 boards? How did you install them? Countersunk carriage bolts or something else? Thanks.

As already stated, it depends on the span between floor ribs. I put thick rigid foam between my floor ribs(flat bottom boat) then laid 1/2" MDO plywood on top. The foam adds extra flotation and supports the floor between the ribs. I had carpeting on my floors for many years, but this season I painted my plywood floors instead of re-carpeting them AGAIN. I'm very glad I did. I used a light gray paint and it's not hot at all in the sun. I was initially worried because I fish barefoot in the summer. I used Dutch Boy floor and porch paint and added the anti slip granules.

The shipping to me here in Wisconsin is $15. That's for two 2X4 bunks. It's right on their website.

The decking needs to be installed on 12" to 16" centers.

I'm thinking of buying the Ultimate bunk boards for my flat bottom jon boat. Do the edges need to be rounded off, or are they good to go as they are? My plan is to mount them flat on the top of my trailer frame, with a 2X4 underneath for extra strength. I would bolt thru the boards and trailer frame, and would not use any brackets. Does this sound OK? Thanks.

Thanks. The treated 2X4 wouldn't touch the boat. On top of it would be the plastic Ultimate bunk board.