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Jim Mac

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Everything posted by Jim Mac

  1. I'm not asking about mixing treated lumber and aluminum. I asked if it's OK to bolt a treated 2X4 to my galvanized trailer.
  2. Thanks. So the treated lumber is only bad with aluminum, NOT my galvanized trailer?
  3. Thanks. My boat is a flat bottom jon. The motor is no problem because I don't have an outboard, electric only. If I do this, I think I will lay a 2X4 under the Ultimate bunks for extra strength, and to eliminate any possible flexing. So is the 4.5" between bottom of boat and top of trailer frame about normal? If I bolt a 2X4 to my galvanized trailer, is it OK to use treated wood?
  4. The bottom of my boat currently sits 4.5" above the top of trailer frame, and I would like to lower the boat if possible. Does 4.5" seem a little high to you guys? I'm thinking of buying "Ultimate Bunk Boards", lying them flat, and bolting right to trailer frame(countersinking bolt heads) Is that a bad idea? Are bunk brackets absolutely necessary? Thanks.
  5. Good idea. I do have a manual bilge pump somewhere. I haven't used it in many years.
  6. Does your canoe from Dick's have a drain plug? I saw it last season at Dick's, but I can't remember. If it doesn't, it wouldn't work for me. It would be sitting outside on a trailer. Thanks.
  7. You're probably right. I'm just trying to be sure before I waste the money. Are the ones you have 1.5" or 3" wide?
  8. I'm not worried about damaging the sliks, my concern is damaging my boat's rivets.
  9. Thanks. What's the purpose of the grooves? I assumed the sliks are not recommended for riveted boats because the rivets would get damaged. Does that make sense?
  10. Thanks. Are those different than the other types out there in any way? Are the tops totally flat? I can't tell by the pic.
  11. Are there any "PVC type" products that can be used on a riveted hull? If not, would roller bunks be just as good? Thanks.
  12. I tried out the rudder a few days ago, and it helped quite a bit. Between the rudder and moving battery to the rear, it is a big improvement.
  13. Thanks guys. I wound up mounting the transducer to the transom.
  14. The one in your link. Do you know if that has some sort of quick/easy release?
  15. Never mind, I found one on their website. Does anyone know if their mounts are "quick release"? Because my Garmin 150 is not easy to remove and put back on.
  16. I want to elevate my Garmin Echo 150 if possible. I've seen pics where a depthfinder was elevated with a Ram mount(I think). What specific mount would fit my Garmin 150? The mounting bracket has 3 holes. Thanks.
  17. I always remove my depthfinder because my boat sits outside, and I'm wondering if I'm better off with a portable one? I recently bought the Garmin 150, and I'm wondering if I should return it. What would you guys do? Thanks.
  18. The problem is it's not a regular bow trolling motor. It's a transom mount model that I reversed the head on, and use it on the bow of my flat jon. When I'm done fishing, I have to raise the motor all the way, lay it flat, then strap it down. There's no way to make it work and secure the cable is there? Thanks.
  19. Thanks. I'm thinking of mounting it on my bow trolling motor, but I don't know if it will work. Please see my other thread.
  20. My Garmin 150's instructions say to mount the transducer 3/8" below the bottom of transom. I assume they mean the very bottom of transducer? How accurate does the 3/8" need to be? Thanks.
  21. Except the fact that they cost as much as a car !!

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