BadContrakt
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Everything posted by BadContrakt
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Hands down wacky rig.
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Well if their intentions with this reel are a light finesse reel I'll be getting one. I'm stoked. 80mm handle doesn't bother me for light finesse fishing. I can almost be certain it will come in a 7.3 ratio but I'd be stoked if it came 8.1 as well. Maybe I can find that out on Tack Trap. AWESOME. Just checked it out on Tackle Trap. 8.1 left hand available. Now I just wish there was a little more info available on it. Like... Weight. Concept of intended usage. etc. etc. If I did end up getting it for finesse fishing, my 7.3 Tatula original can be used for something a little more reel appropriate lol. I'll be disappointed though if I get the Tat SV and it's not as smooth and feathery as my original Tat is. Man that fricken reel is smooth. Just wish it was lighter and smaller (Insert Tatula SV here). EDIT - Just watched Project T 2017 Episode 5 "Tatula SV TW Debut!" video on DAIWA ProjectT channel and he said it's a 90mm handle.
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I'm behind on the latest gossip. Tatula SV CT??? I will own at minimum one of those when they drop. My current finesse reel is my first generation Tatula (the bigger framed one). It's the smoothest casting reel I own. Smoother than my Zillion, CT, and Type R models. I use it for wacky rigs, ned rigs, and light shaky heads. A newer lighter SV spooled Tatula would be a great replacement for the finesse techniques I listed. Looking forward to that. Thanks for the insight.
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I guess in that case if you want it to primarily be for large treble hooked baits, I would just upscale the rod I suggested. Instead of a medium action 6'6"... I guess maybe a medium heavy 7'6" - 8'0" with a fast tip. Even a heavy action with a moderate fast tip possibly.
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I'm confused what you mean by Topwater/Swimbait rod. To me, a swimbait rod is a long (7'6" or longer, preferably 7'11") very stout rod. A Heavy action with a fast tip. You need this action and taper because swimbaits, like chatterbaits and spinnerbaits, are baits that have one large single hook. You need backbone to drive the hookset. Now a topwater rod, would be a 6'6" to 7'3" length with a medium to medium heavy action and moderate to fast tip. This rod needs to have a bit more give because topwater baits are primarily treble hook baits like poppers, whoppers ploppers, & spooks. Topwater rods are also very commonly combined with the usage of jerkbaits as well. Sometimes even small shallow diving crankbaits. Another type of topwater rod would be the 7'0" to 7'6" frog/punching heavy cover rod. I would get this in a Medium Heavy to Extra Heavy action (depending on your location and how thick your cover is) with a fast to extra fast tip (taper). I believe what you mean is that you want a rod for both Swimbaits and for frogging/punching. Because you won't get a rod that's good for typical topwater and swimbaits. If this is what you're after then I would go with a 7'6" Heavy - Fast rod. Let's say you had to buy a 7'11" rod... It would still work. It would be awesome for swimbaits but a little long for frogging and punching. But again, it would work fine. You would just need to get used to it. Now for rod recommendations I don't exactly have a ton of choices for you. I could suggest to you my personal frog rod which is a 7'6" Fenwick HMX in Heavy action and Fast tip, and I like it, but it's just a little heavy for some people's taste. You could get indeed do swimbaits, chatterbaits, spinnerbaits, and frogs and punching with this rod. It's also under your budget at around 80 dollars. It handles 1/2 to 1 1/2 ounce lures. EDIT: Hmm you replied with the lures you'll be using and.. Yeah. I've got nothing lol. I would not personally use a stout swimbait rod on any kind of treble hook bait like you mentioned. I really think you need two setups for what you're listing.
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Oh you're right! The gear ratios are actually different from each other! I was thinking of my Tatula CT in 8.1 left hand but I actually own the CT Type R in left hand 8.1. Okay so that is a major difference there. The Fuego offers a left hand 8.1 for 99.99 whereas the Tatula you need to get the Type R for 8.1 which is a little step up in price. I mean I got my Type R on sale for 119.99 Black Friday but even now you can get them for 129.99 which is still only 30 dollars more. And you can get the Tatula CT for 95 dollars as well. Just for the sake of comparison I kept the prices at MSRP in the original post.
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So Tackle Warehouse just got these in stock. I see a few other distributors also have it. This reel isn't even listed on Daiwa's website. When exactly did this reel come out? I thought it was supposed to be March 2017. Differences I can see at this moment are: Tatula CT is lighter. Has T-Wing System. Has 2 more bearings. Is 30 more dollars. Fuego CT has the same line capacity. Same frame from what I understand (which would mean exact same dimensions I would assume). Same available gear ratios. Same braking. Same drag. So essentially the Fuego CT is for people who dislike the T-Wing system and want a more traditional reel in the 100 dollar class. Anyone own one? Personally I love my Tatula CTs and don't see how anyone could possibly dislike the T-Wing System. There's literally nothing I would change about the Tatula CT except maybe add a clicker on the spool tension knob? I'm not exactly interested in getting a Fuego CT but it caught my attention when I saw it on TW.com this morning.
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Excellent.
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So... You've used regular ol' stainless steel (not corrosive resistant) bearings in saltwater and they've come out of it alright? I realize one outing isn't going to kill my gear but I'll be living on the ocean. It will be much more than one time. If your gear came out alright, how often did you clean them after salt exposure, and did you just rinse them or do a whole breakdown?
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Well put!
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Well a low profile can have a spool anywhere from 100 yard capacity to 350. Pretty big difference. Typically larger fish are caught on live bait with spinning gear. Doesn't mean a big tarpon can't nab my swimbait and spool me when I'm not using a good sized low profile baitcaster! I'd like my inshore baitcaster to have a lot of line capacity. That's a given for this post. The point of the post is, will 250 yards of line be enough for the off-chance that I hook a big fish, or should I play it safe and get the size 400 reel with a 320-350 yard line capacity that's substantially heavier and substantially bigger than the 300?
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The location will be Southeast Florida. Tampa to Naples. Most likely Fort Myers area. For the first year or two it will predominantly be shore fishing for sport fish that I see guys on youtube hitting up. Snook, Jack, Peacock Bass. However, I will eventually end up on a boat and if the target is larger fish like Tarpon or Tuna, I'm curious exactly how much line they can pull off the spool. Oh, and my dream fish is a Goliath Grouper. Just saying. Frankly, I don't even know what the most common type of fish is in that area of Florida. I know there are the above listed species there, but are they on the East Coast? No idea. And yeah, I know, 25 pounds is an insane amount of drag. It's one of the reasons I am picking the Lexa HD.
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I could have SWORE there was a saltwater section on BassResource.com but I guess not! If you don't care to read my rambling, I have a TL:DR at the bottom of the post! Let me put it straight. I'm moving to Florida permanently. Every reel I own is a Daiwa Tatula, Tatula CT, and Tatula CT Type R, and Zillion. I have multiples of all these reels. Love the Tatulas. I really don't want to dunk any of my Tats in salt. So I'm in the market for a new reel (anything for new gear, right?). Was checking out loads of sub 100 dollar cylindrical reels just to use in the salt and not care about... Not very happy with the choices. So I figure ehhh. Might as well go big or go home, right? So right now I have the Lexa HD 300 picked out. I originally thought why not go with the 400 for the whopping extra 100 yards of line capacity... But here's the point of this thread... Do I need that capacity? According to the internet, this reel holds about 250 yards of 30 pound braid, and considering the reel has under 30 pounds of drag, I don't see why I would need to go any higher than 30 pounds for open water. Maybe if I want to try to hit some pier or bridge snook, then I'd have to step it up to 50 or 65 pound I guess? TL:DR In any case, how many yards can a fish under 100 pounds drag off the spool? Is 250 or even just 200 yards enough line for the ocean? I have never fished for any saltwater species and if I happen to land onto a big tarpon or jack, how much would they be able to peel off of the reel? It's got a whopping 25 pounds of drag, keep in mind.
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That's awesome to hear!
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Yeah... I live in Minnesota which is why I posted this topic. I intend on moving to the Lake Fork area and really was struggling to find an answer on this topic. Good though. 365 days a year. That's what I'm talking about. Hate being limited in Minnesota.
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Question.... And trust me, I've looked online and have come up completely empty. It has to be somewhere... but I'm not finding it. May you fish for LMB year-round in the state of Texas? I live in Minnesota and we have closed seasons. Is it the same in Texas or may you fish for them 365 days a year?
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Just because they're pros doesn't mean we need to assume they do every. single. technique. perfectly. I've seen plenty of rookie mistakes made by pros and am certain that there are some that reel against the drag. Reeling against the drag is really no big deal other than line twist and I'm sure (and have witnessed) angler after angler do it.
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The closest one is an hour and a half away lol. I'll look into it now that I'm home and off work. Thanks for doing some dirty work for me though lol.
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I'm honestly probably too picky and this would probably be the easiest option for me. The resin is cracked all the way through but the guide is still a perfect circle and is still solid to the rod. I'm just concerned that when I'm hauling a fish out of the pads with a punch rig that the resin is gonna crack the rest of the way and then it will completely detach from the rod. I gotta look into this and the "local rod repair". I think those are my two best options.
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This would be my first choice. However I'm not sure if there's anyone that does that in my area. I'll have to make an effort to find someone. This is really good information. 45% discount is a nice offer for replacing a broken rod. +1! Now the begging question is.... What does "comparable" mean to Fenwick? Lol.
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Yeah I've been to their "Get Your Fenwick Fishing" page and it doesn't seem very special to me. Just seems like a fancy way of saying "If the rod has a manufacturer's defect, we will replace it. If not, you're SOL". I'm hoping Fenwick is the type of company that just plain and simple takes care of their customer regardless of the problem or story. Kinda like Smith & Wesson... Their warranty doesn't SAY they will cover you for anything, but if you send in a gun that you want replaced or fixed, they'll pretty much just not ask you what happened; they'll just do it. If nobody has this (good) experience with Fenwick then I may just suck it up and live with the cracked resin until it either gets worse, or I damage the rod in a completely different way lol. Right now the rod is completely fine, it just irritates me that one of the eyelets is damaged. Mostly an OCD thing.
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Anyone have any experience with Fenwick's customer service? I love their rods and my whole arsenal is Daiwa reels and Fenwick rods. Was out fishing with my dad earlier this week and he stepped on and bent my 7'6" HMX punching rod's eyelet. I slowly and carefully bent the eyelet back straight and the resin cracked. The eyelet is now straight but the resin holding it to the rod has a fracture in it. The rod is fine but after all, it is my punching/frog rod that sees the most abuse and I would really like to get it fixed/replaced. Does anyone have any experience with Fenwick's customer service? I bought the rod from Gander Mountain only a few months ago and have the receipt.
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Okay let me reveal more information now that I have way more replies than I was expecting to get... I, too, picked up that exact same Aetos from Fenwick's website as they had a pretty nice clearance event going on for the HMX and Aetos. 185 dollar rod for 100 bucks. I'll take it! The HMX was only like 45 bucks, too. I got this rod in 7 foot Medium Heavy / Moderate Fast with intentions on using it as my middle-of-the-water column moving bait rod. Paddletail swimbaits, chatterbaits, spinnerbaits, & 10 foot or shallower crankbaits. I have a Tatula CT in 6.3:1 spooled up with 17 pound Seaguar Invizx 100% fluoro (as I fish the rocky Mississippi a LOT, I went a little heavier for more abrasion resistance). I didn't want to go with a 7.0 or higher gear ratio as I would likely over-reel the bait and keep it too high in the water column, and a 5.4 or lower is better suited for deep big cranks. Verdict: So far, I've taken it out 2 times on the river and fished a 1/2 ounce chatterbait, 1/8 ounce paddletail 4" swimbait, and a KVD 1.5 size 3-5 depth crankbait and it feels great. I have no complaints yet. The gear ratio seems about spot on for keeping the bait in the strike zone and the rod feels strong enough to get a good hookset on single-hooked baits and feels "bendy" enough to not rip crankbait treble hooks out of the fish's mouth. I am yet to take it out on a lake and fish deeper water (~15 foot) but I can't see my opinion differing too much after fishing that. We'll see.
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- 7 foot
- moderate fast
- medium heavy
- mf
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I've heard people say that a moderate fast action rod is "too slow" for large single-hooked moving baits like Paddletail swimbaits, spinnerbaits, and buzzbaits. They say that you won't get a good hookset with that slow of an action. I think the general consensus is that a fast or extra fast is the best for those baits. What do you think? Any problems with missing strikes or getting a good hookset using a MF action rod?
- 27 replies
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- 7 foot
- moderate fast
- medium heavy
- mf
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Tagged with:
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Seriously though, I fish WAY too much. Minimum 2 times a week if not 3-4. I work part-time and fishing is pretty much all I do when I'm not working. Everyone I know wants to send me to Fishaholics Anonymous because I sincerely have a sickness. Bassoholism. I eat sleep dream live bass fishing. I know I'm not the only one around here with that sickness either, so I feel comfortable admitting I have a problem here. I'm just really... Really good at being careful with my things.
