WIGuide

The fact that every day is different and it's always a challenge. Sure there are times you can just go out and catch without putting much effort in, but in most cases they challenge you. It's also the most rewarding in my opinion.

Just don't forget the hooks are in your pocket when you stick your hand in there! haha I prefer t-rigged mainly because for whatever reason I haven't had much success fishing anything with a jig head. I know they're good I just haven't had success with them although I'm going to work to change that this year.

x4 or 5 or whatever the count is at lol

You're going to want to locate the spot you want it and double check the back to make sure that it's in the clear. As simple of a step as it is, it's easy to overlook and drill through and into wires, or a fuel line or even worse, somehow locate it in a spot that you can't get the hose on the back side. Once you've done all that, you're going to want to lay out the hole on the outside of the hull. You're going to want to use either masking tape or some painter tape to cover the entire area and then some that will be drilled. Once that's down, you can draw out your hole and cross hairs so you can make sure it's where you want it. The tape will also help to prevent the gel coat around the hole from chipping. Once layout is all finished, then comes the part that just about every glass boat owners cringe about....drilling a hole in that beauty. Given that this is something that you really don't want to screw up start off drilling a small pilot hole in the middle of the cross hairs that you laid out. The small pilot hole will help you to prevent your hole saw from walking and also if the small bit walks or you don't get it right where you want it, you can adjust it easily. (your pilot hole size will depend on what bit you choose to use for the big hole) Now for drilling the bigger hole. There are a few different bits you can use to drill through fiberglass. A hole saw is probably the best option if you can find one that small (bi-metal is better than wood). A sharp spade bit will do the job as well as a sharp fostner bit will also. Line up the guide bit of the hole saw with the pilot hole and start your drill in REVERSE. Watch the dust/shavings coming from the bit as you run it backwards as gel coat will be a white color. Keep drilling in reverse until the bit has went completely through the gel coat and into the fiberglass itself. Usually the fiberglass dust will change colors when you hit it and when you do, stop and put the drill in the forward drilling position. Make sure you don't force the bit through, just go slow to prevent heat build up and let it do it's work. Also, you don't want to force it because it will have a tendency to blow the back side of the hole out leaving it uneven and no longer a uniform thickness. Once the hole is drilled, check for fitment. If it's good, remove the tape, but don't pull it straight up. Pull it from the edge towards the hole folding it over itself. This way it's not lifting up on the gel coat surface, it's just pulling it. towards the hole. When you're done, you should have a perfect hole without any chips in the gel coat. Running the drill in reverses is what really helps prevent that so be sure you do that. Before installing the bulkhead be sure to seal the open fiberglass pores with silicon and also when you put the bulkhead in put silicone on the surface that will be mating with the fiberglass to keep moisture out. I know that probably seems like a book for something as simple as drilling a hole. It's really not that complicated, but I've seen some bad holes where the gel coat is chipped all the way around and it looks like crap. Your bulkhead should cover most of these if they happened but it could lead to some funky looking spider cracking if it chips out too far.

It depends on what you consider throwing on it as well as what kind of regulations you have in your state. I really don't think it's overkill though. I think it'd be pretty uncommon to have an A rig go under 2 oz. by the time you add up all the baits jig heads and the rig itself.

St. Croix Premier and Avid. Falcon Lowrider, as well as most of the G. Loomis Rods

You can use a Palomar with Fluoro you just have to be sure to wet your line, pull slowly, and make sure you line isn't twisted over yourself. It's the know I tie the vast majority of the time and I've never had an issue with it. That knot is actually called the Jimmy Houston knot. He developed it in the 80's and it's one of the very few known 100% knot. 100% meaning that the when tied correctly it's just as strong as the line. It's a great knot, but you have to be careful when you tie it. If done wrong it'll cut into itself and it'll even snap while you're pulling it tight. If you can pull it tight and put pressure on it, you're good to go!

Berkley Trilene XL for a spinning reel and XT for baitcasters.

Are you putting it in a glass hull or aluminium?

$300K Liability and and $500 deductible, replacement value on boat, motor, and trailer for $77 a year.

I used to use snap-swivels when I was a little kid and only had a few rods. I tie everything direct now.

Sort of, it was spawned out of the Pradco brands by Pradco. They took their popular baits and offered them in new pro picked colors with Excalibur hooks. This would have been the beginning before it was marketed as the "Excalibur Series" like the other pictures I posted. Then came the "Excalibur" line of baits that were marked just under the Excalibur name. (example below) The Bomber Fat Free Shad came first and they used it in the Excalibur line because of it's popularity, just like the other baits in the line. They all existed on their own first with the possible exception of the Swimmin' Image and Spittin' Image. (They might have been too but I'm not sure on those) Pradco offered those already popular baits in premium colors and with the Excalibur hooks and that left you with the Excalibur line of baits.

I think you misunderstood what I meant. The "Mean Mouth" is a cross between a Smallmouth Bass and Largemouth Bass. Just like the Tiger Musky is a cross between a Musky and Northern Pike. I know the Tiger Musky and Mean Mouth look nothing alike, but they're both the result of natural cross breading.

As well as Heddon And Rebel

They originated out of the Bomber line as seen on the package.

I'm sure it's similar to a Tiger Musky which is a naturally occurring cross breed of Northern Pike and Musky.

Probably right to toss it. Next time if you are going to keep some, keep the smallest legal size you can and clean it right away. If all you have is a cooler with ice, then put it in a ziplock bag and pack that in ice instead of just laying it on top that way it's cooling all the meat.

Your regular glasses aren't designed to block out peripheral light, so they won't block out glare coming in around your lenses at all. That really limits how well a polarized lens can work. There are quite a few companies that offer prescription polarized sunglasses. I'd look into those since they'll be WAY more comfortable and will shield your eyes better. Otherwise look into getting some contacts and then just wear regular sunglasses.

Same concept, except this looks a little more erratic.

PM'ed you

I use backing almost all the time. Some of my spinning reels are the only exceptions. When I do I just use mono. There's no need to waste money on something that'll never see the light of day.

Generally I fight most of mine unless they're dinks.

I'm not sure if it's the same with the Elites as it is with the Touch units, but on those you can actually export a region onto a map card and name the file. So basically if I've got a ton of waypoints on a lake, I can make a box around it, go to export region, and all those waypoints are backed up on the card in a file with the name of my choosing. I'd recommend looking over your users manual to see if your unit is capable of this as well. Another thing worth noting, that unit will store 3000 waypoints without the use of an sd card so if you fish 8 to 10 lakes you can probably get away without even using one.

They've ran combos on and off with "PQ's" before. They had a Christmas special one year that had a color changing paint scheme that had more bearings than the regular PQ but was about the same price if not cheaper even with the rod.

2008 had the old model, 09 did not have it. I believe it was was probably left out due to space and other reels in the category (Rick Clunn and Pro Lite both $99) Also, considering that in 09 the catalog had both the PQ spinning reel and the PQ rods, I'm guessing it just didn't make the cut. Them not having the 4.7 in the left hand retrieve isn't surprising. It's has to make them a profit in order to make it and although there are a few die hard anglers out there running reels that slow, they are for sure few and far between.