MickD

A friend's open carry instructor told him the same thing. He said every thug knows the sound of racking a shell in, and all but the most crazy will flee rather than fight. If they do fight, one shot is all it will take. Only problem will be the restoration costs-pretty messy.

If you're using almost any pound test braid with an 8 pound test leader there is no need to use the FG. A double uni is a piece of cake to tie, hard to tie wrong, is reliable, and with the lighter leaders will go through almost any guides cleanly if that is necessary. For some reason, I've never found the popular and "always" successful Crazy Alberto to be reliable. Something I'm doing wrong that I cannot figure out.

A-Jay, regarding your pic. And previous ones of your rod locker. You'd better stop robbing banks. Sooner or later, you're going to get caught> ? A-Jay, are the red ones fairly effective? I've never had much luck on them. My most effective for SMB are the chrome/blue and chrome/shad, Strike King Red Eyes.

I hope I'm not being redundant to other comments, but my comments are: Spicast have the advantage, IMHO, of being able to cast heavier lines well than are open face reels. But my comment does not include any experience with FC or braid on them. Their disadvantage is that you cannot feather the cast to shorten a cast without totally stopping the cast. Can you drive a stick shift car? If yes, you can use one of the new casting reels, like the Daiwa Fuego, which needs very little thumb control with most lures.

I have no experience with the Mudhole composites, but the Bushidos and Revelations are great blanks at a great price. Mudholes may be, also. I'm sure you'll get some comments on them. REV casting rod I'd suggest you take a look at is : Revelation REVS68ML-SBFinesse/Tubes/Small Crankbaits 6'8" 6-12 1/8-3/8 0.44 5 Fast 1.71 ML This is listed by Batson as a spin blank, but blanks don't know what they are going to be built into, and this one looks right. I've not built it. It should be a little crisper, faster action than the Bushido, which I would call a moderate, not a moderate fast.

Just re-read and noticed your 12-15 FC preference. If spin, go with the KLH 20 first guide. If cast, OK with the blank mentioned above. What is ideal for your small crank is the spin option with the 10-15 braid. IMHO. I really think you should, because you can get great Fuji guides for a reasonable price, and these blanks are very affordable, build both. The spin with the 16KLH.

Cast or spin? For spin a terrific rod blank for what you want is also a quite versatile rod, but it really excels at small cranks and is surprisingly affordable for its quality. REVIP70ML-SBInshore / sea trout / 7' 6-12 1/8-3/8 0.390 5.0 M-Fast 1.7oz ML Rainshadow Inshore Popping, action and power are perfect. If you plan to use braid under 15 pound test the Fuji reduction train KLH 16, KLH 8, then KL5.5M is perfect, followed by a couple KB's then KT's to the end. I like size 4 runners for this. If you plan heavier line the go KLH 20, KLH 10, then KL5.5M, followed by the KB's and KT's. But I see no need for going to the heavier line option. I have built a number of these for me and my son. His first reaction to his was "This is really a sensitive rod." But it also loads perfectly for small cranks, and the M-fast action is right for casting the cranks and handling the fish. For cast, I like the the American Tackle Bushido CB68/6-12 Bushido 6'8" Popping/Crankbait 6-12 lb. 1 6'8" 6-12 lb. 1/4 - 5/8 oz. .415" 4.5 1.37 oz. Mod-Fast Medium This is another bargain blank that performs way above its price. It's power and action match a Loomis that I built many years ago. For guides I like the Fuji RV6 first guide, followed by 3 KB's, then KT's to the end. Size as you want, I like 5's for this type of build. Please keep us posted

If the fish want it slow, the chatterbaits easily allow you to give them slow. I've found them very effective in shallow areas for LMB, if the vegetation allows them. I've not found them as effective on SMB.

Buy jigs with a wire bait holder, not a molded lead one. It is about impossible to get a Ned properly placed on a lead bait holder. Also try to stick with fairly light wire hook so you don't lose the Ned material's buoyancy advantage.

Reels no problem IF you shop only from Ebay sellers with 99% favorable ratings. AND if their return policy is agreeable. I have bought a few used reels, and no problems. Look the pics over carefully. Rods are another issue since many fishermen don't understand how easy it is to damage a rod by knocking it into the gunwale or shock it in some other way, so they may not even know themselves that the rod is compromised. Better to simply wait for the sales and buy new.

I have never seen a tiptop with a tube diameter this small, or a blank with a tip this small. Something seems very wrong here. What tool did you use to measure it? I would think that rod would have a tip dia of about 5/64. Looking at Loomis blanks on an old blank catalog the only blank with a tip less than 4/64 is a fly blank. Most are 4.5 or 5. If you cannot get one from Loomis, then one way to build up a tip for a larger tube size is to wrap it with thread to get a larger diameter. It is a good, solid, way to do it. Although if the tip really is this small, it might look a little funny.

If the pike is below about 30 inches you can grab them from over the fish right behind the head. Hold on tight or you may have a hook and a fish in your hand. Above about 30, they are too wide to hold onto, so get under the lower jay and grab through the slits there, making sure to stay clear of the teeth, and the lure. However, a tool to grab the lower jaw is available and not expensive. Much safer, especially for newbies. If you think you may encounter more of them, take a jaw spreader in your pocket or pack. Cheap and so effective in aiding the removal of the lure. https://www.cabelas.com/product/NORMARK-CORP-FISH-GRIPPER-FLOATIN/3178271.uts?productVariantId=6135166&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=BingPLA&WT.z_mc_id1=02231139&rid=20&msclkid=d67a200a5a5c13b5603f7d818153c62f&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=CK7fxMf07OQCFdVIgQodTPIHAA&gclsrc=ds There are many more, do a search for "fish jaw grabber"

Thanks. I wouldn't want a reel with full time anti reverse-rarely, but sometimes I like to back reel when fighting a fish. Often I switch it off to adjust the line, usually to back the lure off the tip if I reeled it up too far. Opening the bail takes a little line, so it jams it into the tiptop more. Releasing the anti reverse is better. Significant mistake, Shimano.

No anti reverse? Or is it anti reverse is always on? I wouldn't want either.

I agree with the above statement. But will add that I always use premium ring materials for tiptops on rods I build to get the best chance of avoiding grooving. I've never had a guide groove, but old cheapie tiptops have grooved. I would not bother changing on an existing rod because it may never groove, and there is no problem waiting until it does. Grooving does not damage line, unlike a cracked ring.

The consumption of the memory in the unit is based on hours, right? So if you are fishing and just leaving it on, are you not consuming a lot of memory with little mapping? I'm learning too. thx By the way, Humminbird phone support has been very efficient and effective for me.

Great grammar, A Jay. That's one that most would not get correct.

Any Daiwa. Check eBay.

Yes, it looks like a great knot. Will try it.

Close together supports. With a home made wrapper you may have to cobble some supports, or add a movable one.

Except for tying drop shot hooks, I never use the Palomar. Here is a knot that is shown to be 94% as strong as a Palomar, uses less leader, easier to tie, works with mono and FC (not sure on braid since I don't tie directly to braid), AND, if used as a terminal knot with the FG or double uni as the line to leader knot, the break if snagged will always occur at the terminal. Which is why the terminal knot should not be as strong as the FG or double uni. But should be close.

Make a bag of the stuff you use 90% of the time. When fishing on another's boat, only take that. Keep your necessary tools, leader material, snaps, sinkers, etc in it. If the other fisherman is like I and my buddies are, a loan of something you missed that is working that day is offered. When fishing your own boat you can have "all your stuff" under cover and out of the way.

As mentioned, climbing onto the tongue is tricky, especially for us old farts, but it can be improved with a couple pretty easy adds to the trailer. 1. Apply anti-slip tape (like sandpaper, mine is yellow) to the top of the trailer rails anywhere that you might step. 2. Make some properly sized 3/4 treated plywood boards to provide wide steps on the side and the tongue of the trailer. They really make a difference both in getting to the winch and operating it. When designing the steps be sure they will not interfere with the folded front tongue support.

Mine too.

I think cutting a 6-8 Rainshadow Revelation may be your best option. Of course the cut should be from the butt. I don't think you'll find the exact blank you are looking for. Cutting from the butt is pretty low risk. Action will get a little slower, power a little lower.