MickD

Build that rod and I'll bet you find yourself using it fairly often. Smaller cranks, like squarebills, for bass-it will be very useful.

Or just get a scale of the proper range and read the weights directly in ounces. https://www.amazon.com/Accuracy-Electronic-Calibration-Weighing-Portable/dp/B0736QWVT2/ref=sr_1_11?hvadid=77721779360511&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=digital+mini+scales&qid=1555365333&s=gateway&sr=8-11

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I see this concept is hard to comprehend.

It would not have broken if you pointed it directly at the log, but you did it the right way. I'm just pointing out that if the rod is not bent, it cannot be overloaded. (You might fail the reel or the reel seat) We control how much it bends by how we control its attitude relative to the load.

I have a scale that weighs in all units. It is not that capability that is important. The important thing is that your scale must be matched roughly to the weight you are trying to weigh. Regardless of units. A bathroom scale, regardless of its units, will not weigh the weight of lures, or epoxy proportions, or any other "light" weights accurately. My scale is designed for , and is accurate, in the range of 0-10 oz or so. And is accurate in whatever other units of weight I want to use. It's not about the units.

The rod sees not the line pound test but sees only the drag setting. And most reels' drags are capable of only 12 pounds or so, some to 20. So use whatever line you want to use. Just use the rod properly. You can fail a rod with 20 pound test as easily as 50 pound test. It's sort of like a manual transmission clutch. Treat it properly and it will last forever. Mistreat it and you can fail it in less than a minute.

Tom, respectfully, it's not about the units. The lures were listed in oz and on what appears to be a calibrated scale, they are heavier than advertised. If your point is that you need a scale properly sized for the objects being weighed, right on. You cannot trust a postal scale for 1/4 oz lures. I have never weighed lures. While often a skeptic, I never saw a need to.

I think most monos on the market are nylon. There are different types of nylon. I think most of us consider that a copolymer line is a single filament line that is a mix of nylon and FC. And has characteristics of both but not exactly the same as either. Sort of a compromise that is easier handling, higher density than nylon, and possibly less visible than nylon. Nylon is a plastic, a thermoplastic (meaning it can be melted in contrast to thermosets which don't melt) and it is a type of polymer. Polymer is a chemical compound with long repeating chains blah blah blah. . . There are many different kinds of plastics. When you mix different kinds of thermoplastics you have a copolymer. Like what we consider a copolymer line. But as Tom says, ANY plastic that consists of a mix of plastics is a COPOLYMER. It could be nylon, FC, polypropylene, polyethylene, or any other thermoplastic.

I wasn't as skilled at finding the good FC, and have a goodly number of partials hanging around. Maybe my problem is associated with not being willing to spending major money for a spool of line. About $17 is my limit. And still nothing stood out. All of the FC brands I've tried have been more susceptible to backlashing and more susceptible to being damaged while trying to get the backlash untangled. I would describe the FC's as being "very fragile." I've been trying a good number of name brands, not no-name lines.

The best way to try FC is to find a friend who swears by it. Then ask him if you can have a few of the partial spools he has left from his search for an acceptable FC. He most likely will have quite a few.

What is the diameter of the first guide on that rod? Could be braid going through the guide is making the noise? Maybe the guide is too small? Put some wax on the lip of the spool, let it dry so it forms a matte film, then make a couple casts. Is the film disturbed? If not, the noise is not line to lip contact. If it is disturbed, it might be that contact that's making the noise, although I've never heard it with probably dozens of reels and all kinds of line. But I have heard line to guide contact. Keep in mind that when casting with a spin outfit, there are no moving parts exc the line. So it's a pretty simple system.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I presume everyone who is upgrading bearings is not adding any friction with the cast control features of the reels. That would seem to be counterproductive.

If you notice your surface lures not acting right, especially the walk the dogs and poppers which rest a while, then change copoly to mono for the leader. FC specific gravity is about 1.5, meaning it sinks pretty fast. Mono about 1, so it doesn't sink, it just stays where it was put. Copoly logically would be somewhere in between, which means it most likely will sink. Daiwa reels really work well. I'm with Daiwa from now on.

I had trouble tying the FG holding the braid in my teeth because many times before I got the knot tied, the braid slipped. Until I started wrapping the braid around these and holding the bigger, softer, device in my mouth. Even better was when I discovered that the device could be tied to a belt loop which brought the whole tying of the knot to an ergonomically better position, basically tying it in my lap. The double uni used with the lower pound test braids and leaders that are so popular now is small enough to go through every guide size, including small micros, that I've tried. For size the leader is the major culprit, and double unis with leaders over about 15 pound probably will not work well with most sizes of micros. Maybe lower than 15.

I may be the only one who is challenged by what your testing, but I don't know what an "un-retied" knot means. I don't know what your testing process is, and as you say, a single test isn't enough for a solid conclusion. Does the 7.5 pounds mean that the double uni knot only held half of the leader pound test then broke? 6 turn on through every test? Did you not take it to failure? I don't mean to be critical, but I think you have to be more specific in order that we don't all come to our own conclusions as to what's going on and what the results are. Right now I can take no conclusion from what I've read.

Can you tell me what keeper that is? Never mind, I see it in your specs.

I'm not sure, but probably has to do with their long length. Maybe their internal organs get stretched out of place. I've read it in some pretty credible pike/muskie articles. I tried to find some documentation for the horizontal hold, and did find a little, but no detail on why the horizontal hold is recommended. Maybe a muskie expert can help out here.

IMHO balance is highly over-rated. Especially on techniques where the rod is mostly held vertical or close. I would go for the most sensitive blank, which is the Legend.

Just cannot resist any longer. I have never found a jig that would tie itself. But I'm still looking.

If you hold them properly, without distorting and overstressing their lower jaw, I think there is no problem. I find it amazing that so many fishermen, supposedly experts, on TV hold the fish so that the lower jay is terribly "bent." Let that jaw be vertical when hanging the fish from it. This is not the case with big pike and muskies, which should have their bodies properly supported in a horizontal position. That's why cradle nets were made.

One of the most effective and versatile here in MI is one mentioned a lot already, the Rapala DT 6. The Live River Shad color will take anything that swims around here.

Yes, I saw these recently. Thanks for reminding me. I'll have to come up with a scheme to remind me to put it back in.

I never take my plug out of the boat exc at the dealership where they require it (for good reason). By not taking it out, I never forget to put it in. Not that that ever happened before . . .

I'll bet it was the bail spring that got you on the Mitchell. Seems like the rod in question would be good for what you used to use it for. Or spinnerbaits in cover. Or as a spare for your most used technique. You're from MI, so you fish smallies in clear water? Put a white Senko about 3-4 inches long on it, keep it handy, and throw it to follow up a hooked bass, or if your partner has one on. The smallies expel half digested minnows quite often and other bass follow and eat them. The minnows are pure white, or very close to it.