MickD

All braid is not alike. I prefer Suffix to any other for BC. With spin, Suffix + Power Pro. I haven't tried them all, but I would stick with the original brand names rather than buy big box store brands, who don't really make the lines, and don't tell you who does. Buying them is a gamble. I've had some that were fine, and some that were not.

The Gore fiber in the 832 is designed to give it a higher specific gravity, to make it sink a little more. The original Suffix Performance braid is my favorite on BC outfits since it is a tighter weave than most, a little stiffer, and doesn't seem to absorb as much water. With a soft braid + water absorption, the line gets too heavy and flies off the spool making loops at the spool. Pain in the you know what. Not with Suffix Performance braid.

Got it. Trim it, action slows, gets more powerful. Trimming from the tip, right? Trimming either end will slow it, but not sure about power if trimmed from the butt. I have trimmed a few from the tip, by breaking off the tiptop, and have never really liked them after that. Same sort of disappointment as when your pedigreed bird dog gets knocked up by the mutt down the street.

Batson, how do I stiffen up a blank?

The way the FG works is that the braid "embeds" into the leader material forming a mechanical lock + the finger trap.. The half hitches keep the braid from loosening. More than two half hitches probably is a good idea, but 20-25 braid weaves is counterproductive. After about 12 weaves, the "extra" weaves don't really deform the leader and may even prevent any of them from doing so. The braids need to be progressively tightened and slid down the leader thus stacking it uniformly and tightly in groups of 4 or so weaves. If you wait until you get many more to tighten them, they may not actually tighten properly. When you have the 12 nicely tightened and the knot is tight and uniform, then pull on both ends and you'll get the desired effect. Tying the knot using light braid and leaders is quite difficult for me, so when I'm using line and leaders that light, I just use a double uni which goes through the guides well. A properly tied FG will last many fishing trips. Not necessary to retie often. If you have one that's done right, leave it alone until it obviously shows distress. When you think an FG is getting a little beat up, tear it apart and you'll observe the leader deformation I'm talking about.

The issue with getting through guides has little to do with length, much to do with "width." The uni will not go through guides as well as the FG, no matter how you define the issue or the knot dimensions. But, since the issue is the tying of the FG with lighter lines, those lighter lines with the uni just may go through the guides fine. So use it when the FG is tough to tie and the uni works fine. We are in agreement on using the uni with light lines/leaders.

The uni is NOT more compact than the FG. It's a very good knot, quite easy to reliably tie, but just count the number of layers of the leader and compare it to ONE for the FG. As stated before in this string, the lighter the leader (and the braid) the harder it is to tie a good FG. But if the leader is that light, then the double uni will work very well with most guides. The real utility in the FG is with leaders of at least 15 pounds, preferably 20. I use the "weave the braid over/under the tag end of the leader, and with this method, it is very important to snug up the braid weaves after each 4, for a total of 12. That snugging up process is key and troublesome at first. I don't do it, but I have read that some scrape braid with a fingernail to remove any coating. The braid I've used so far doesn't seem to have a coating. If you take apart a well-tied FG you will find that the leader has been deformed by the braid thus giving a mechanical lock. If you put too many weaves of the braid on you may not get this deformation of the leader and the knot may not be reliable. The lessons I got on it recommend three sets of 4 weaves for a total of 12, each set snugged up very tightly before going on to the next set.

Not sure what Bushido is being recommended, but Bushidos are great blanks at great prices. I would not hesitate to use one if its specs are right.

Since braid lasts so long and is so expensive, remember to reverse the line when you think it's getting a little old. You'll have a brand new braid line to work with.

http://www.getbitoutdoors.com/specials/blank-bonanza/50-60-off-high-modulus.html If I were looking to try recoils on a rod I think I'd do that on a finesse rod instead of a flippin rod. Above blank looks like it should fit what you're looking for.

Since in flipping you are in heavy cover, max stealth of FC is not needed, IMO. And the knot, if going through the guides, may interfere with the cast, even though it is not "hanging up." You may want to blacken or "camo": the last couple feet of the braid with sharpies. I cannot believe that the line specific gravity will affect the sinking rate when a 1/2 to 1 ounce sinker is used. Actually, the braid's specific gravity is about equal to that of water, certainly not significantly less. It doesn't actually float, it just doesn't sink. But it will when a heavy sinker is used.

What is YOUR definition of sensitivity?

You will most likely get a range of opinions on this one. My opinion is that heavy power is not a big sensitivity reducer, maybe not at all. I also believe, from experience, that all else being equal, the faster the action the better the sensitivity. My definition of sensitivity is the ability to detect information transmitted from the lure. I think your proposal for a rod, given that it is a high quality graphite, will work fine as you propose. One of the biggest things you can do for sensitivity is to use braid line. Some do this without a leader, others use either mono or FC leaders. I prefer FC believing that if you're putting something on to reduce visibility, nothing does it better than FC. If you plan to use the outfit for surface lures, use mono instead-it doesn't sink.

My favorite tube rod is my St. Croix SCV 7 foot, medium power, fast action. That may mean medium heavy in most brands, 181 CCS pennies, 77 degree action angle on my CCS rig. It will handle any bass I've ever encountered. But its beauty is in its sensitivity. If I had to prioritize one attribute for tubes it would be sensitivity. I also really like its 7 feet length compared to a very good 6 1/2 foot rod I have, better for both tip up and tip down working of jigs. Not cheap, but very very good.

OOmod, that is not a fishing boat. Fishing boats have all sorts of lures and plastics scattered all over the platform. You can't fool me. :-)

Better than a test light, get a cheap digital volt ohm meter at any auto shop, Harbor Freight, discount hardware store like American Eagle.Less than $10, maybe less than $5 on promotions. It will come in handy around the house, too. As Cmiller says, do a search for videos and learn how to use it. You are making much more work for yourself (and others) when your problem can easily be diagnosed with the right tool and a little knowledge. I agree it's most likely ground. Do a systematic check of the truck output: Check the ground for zero resistance to bare metal on the truck, like a bolt for example. Then check all the other circuits (when they are operating) for voltage with one probe in the output, and one in the ground. THIS WILL TELL YOU IF YOUR TRUCK WIRING IS OK. Then go to the trailer, while hooked up, and lights on, and check to see if you have voltage relative to ground at the components you are checking. If you do, might be the bulb. If you don't, most likely an open circuit between the truck and the component. Most likely problem is right at the connector. Make sure it's clean, and the female receptacles are actually contacting the males. I would not rewire anything until I understood for sure what is going on. If you cannot find the problem, then just think about how much trouble you will get into by rewiring and praying.

Above idea should work. The direct answer is that you can add a locking nut only if it will clear your guides and any forend. Not likely. I think I remember a person suggesting putting a rubber band around the seat at the hood, tied in a knot, right against the hood, to prevent it from moving. Rubber bands won't last long, so if this works you'll most likely have to do it several times a season. It is possible that putting some compressible material, like gasket material, under the reel foot will provide a jamming effect to keep the nut from backing off. good luck.

Make sure you don't have two things going on, one the casting technique and backlashes, and second, a damaged guide or tiptop ring. Check them with a Q-tip-if the fuzz on the Q-tip snags, you have cracked ring that will cut your line.

This is not the best place to get the info you want. Lots of bad info on DEET. Some good info on DEET. Anyone who uses 100% DEET is playing with fire, both from a health standpoint and the destruction of anything other than metal that comes into contact with it. Winn warned us at a meeting recently that Winn Grips will not stand up to DEET, and they were not even talking about 100%. It is my opinion that you will be able to find some fairly effective repellents without resorting to DEET. And there are some that contain low percentages of DEET that might makes sense if you are careful with its application and your equipment. And you wash it off after its use. But 100% DEET is outrageous. http://healthresearchfunding.org/dangers-deet/

An easier way is to use Sally Henson No Chip Topcoat for fingernails. It's one part, so no mixing, crystal clear, hardens very fast, seems very tough. I use it on replacement eyes on hard lures, glue them on then topcoat with Sally Henson for insurance. Very effective. Either way you want to get the lure really dry before working on it.

Thanks for the replies. I don't have any doubts about the importance of color; I've switched colors many times and changed the results immediately. But was curious about the combination thing, which I've never seriously tried to figure out, and thought others may have. My own experience with laminated tubes, those with one color above and one below, has not indicated that they are better than single color tubes. In fact, I think they may not be as good as single color tubes. With swim baits I think I have concluded that a chartreuse tail is a real advantage over a single color.

If I have found that color A is ineffective and color B is effective, will fish find the same lure in a combination of the two attractive or a turn-off?

Nothing absolute about the issue, use common sense. When I replace trebles I try to stay with the same size, otherwise it might affect the action. I use a 4x strength hook, a good quality sharp hook. If mulitples are on a lure make sure they don't reach each other, otherwise they may tangle. I think that's where shank length may be an issue, otherwise, I don't think it is. If the lures are collectors' items, it may be wise to find out what you're dealing with before replacing hooks. It may be that it would diminish their value. There are ways to get rid of rust.

If you are not already doing so, try using braid, about 10-15 in open water, 15-20 in heavy weeds, with a flourocarbon leader (15-20 pound, a couple feet long at least). Make sure you have a good, sensitive rod. If you're using something like an old Ugly Stick, you could be bitten by a pickup truck and not feel it. With the right equipment, just keep trying and it will come. With the wrong equipment, it may never come.

Out the side is the recommendation of one of the Inn-Fisherman experts. I haven't had enough success with either to have a personal opinion. I've used similar swimbaits out the top with good success as trailers on swimjigs for largemouth.