MickD

Here is a video of the tool's operation. One thing to keep in mind is that this does not make the traditional FG since the LEADER is tied with a half hitch. With the FG there is only one "layer" of the leader, but with the half hitch of the leader with this tool you end up with a significantly bigger knot, with the leader "layered" three times. I believe this knot may well be larger than an Alberto. One can simulate this knot without the tool by simply doing the leader half hitch at the end of the normal FG. It very well may be small enough for any guide set, but I think it might take as long to master this tool as it does to simply master the FG. https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=tightropetb&ei=UTF-8&p=video+Daiichi+knot+tool&type=11745_012616#id=1&vid=d09bfdd57409ef15975c3426fa4ef960&action=click

I would think that under the right conditions you could use any type of head with a jig and catch fish. However, you asked why do neds have a mushroom style head. The original ned, made of a bouyant material, when coupled with a mushroom style head, will land upright on the bottom most of the time. That is part of its effectiveness. Other materials with other head shapes will not do this, but will land more horizontal.

All above is true, but also, the larger the guides the less prone to water freezing in them. Can't help with the line on the spool, though. The reason smaller guides are worse is that surface tension has the greater opportunity to close a guide.

If casting easily, confidently, is your only criteria, yes, mono. However, I'm willing in some situations to give up a little of that for better feel of the bite. Braid. I use both.

I'm a switch hitter, have both and use them without problems. New purchases will be left retrieve, right handed casting.

Garage keeps the boat clean and dry and secure and offers better opportunities for critter control. I don't think there is an "outside" option that comes even close.

Tech has a great deal to do with the better rods today. The materials, the processes, designs, it's all tech. But yes, without a great quality control system, tech can do nothing of value.

There are two kinds of custom covers, probably a lot more. A-Jay and I have covers designed for our Lund boats and they clip into a groove on the boat and are entirely capable of trailering short or long distances. I've done it for thousands of miles since 2017 with mine and it is still in good shape and looks like it will last a lot longer. It is stored inside, not outside which is tougher on them than inside. Other "custom" covers are designed for the size and shape and cockpit configuration of boats and use straps to hold them in place. These are not nearly as easy to use and are not as reliable for protecting and staying in place as the Lund style customs. You'll have to use your judgment on how well they will work. I know when my cover is done for, I'll go to Lund and get another. Yes it will be more costly.

I used to have this issue with a Calcutta 100 when I would have the thumbar in the wrong position when putting the side cover back on. It had to be either up or down, forgot which.

I would buy the bodies from Barlowe's, some split rings, and Siwash open eye hooks and offer something different than what most are offering. The single Siwash hooks fish well but doesn't snag on the bottom or tangle as much as two trebles.

Yup. Sort of like peer review in the medical publication field.

Unless you prefer having an anti reverse switch.

I have a few Tatula LT's in size 3000 and love them. Sad to see it, but looks like Daiwa is eliminating the anti reverse switch on the new models. If I needed another reel I'd buy the Tatula LT for $169. I have a Fuego LT, too, and really don't know without looking whether I'm using it or the Tats. It' s a very good reel too.

Regarding: "He has a theory about rod sensitivity that is just utterly ridiculous. Says that no matter what a longer rod is more sensitive than a shorter rod. He says that vibration and feel have nothing to do with a rod's sensitivity, a fiberglass rod that is longer than a high modulus carbon fiber rod will be more sensitive." I don't think this characterization is quite accurate. He states that with two rods of similar power the longer will be the more sensitive when sensitivity is defined as the ability to feel a bite. He does fail to recognize that a bite, or thump, is actually a single cycle of a vibration, so if a rod transmits vibration more effectively than another, it should transmit a thump or bite more effectively. When challenged about the differences in modulus and their effect on sensitivity he sort of dodged. (in my opinion)

And just who is this guy?

Already did in a way. My previous comments on what happens when weight is added were based on quite a bit of TNF tests. I might add that 2 other builders and I did a multi blank correlation test on CCS and TNF. I and one other used TNF to measure natural frequency and the third used a video process he had developed for natural frequency. Correlation was quite good between processes and builders. And as usual the "premium" blanks had higher TNF's. I'm convinced that with rod blanks you do get what you pay for. At least most of the time. I'm sure there are exceptions. 140 % more sensitive than what?

It's not just the amount of weight, it's where it is on the rod. I don't know if fat/long wrap finishes are significant or not, but the recovery speed from deflection of rods changes (goes lower) when running guides are added. On some blanks it is significantly different when comparing the effect on recovery speed between stainless and titanium running guides, even when the guides are small micros. On some blanks even the difference between stainless and titanium tiptops is found. What does this mean to the fishing of the rod? Faster recovery speeds make for a crisper, cleaner feeling rod with less "wiggle" after deflection. Enough weight out there would be expected to affect sensitivity negatively. It would depend on the characteristics of the blank how important this all is.

Sally Hensen is recommended for repairs, not a substitute for wrap epoxy. It is stated that it has UV stability, but it has not been tested for this application as has all the wrap epoxies. Best to use materials designed specifically for the job. It is unlikely that Sally Hensen would hold a guide in place by itself. The guide should be wrapped and Sally Hensen used to protect the thread. Then when one gets the time the guide should be rewrapped and finished with guide wrap epoxy. I don't think polyurethane is the same as Permagloss; it certainly doesn't have the same strong odor and doesn't dry as quickly. Yes, Permagloss should be used only with very good ventilation. Permagloss and polyurethane will not provide the deep, heavy, coating that epoxy gives, and will take multiple coats to get much of any build at all. However, Permagloss has the advantage of being very tough, flexible, and it never darkens with sunlight making it good for lighter colors where the darkening of epoxy shows up.

If you still have both pieces you might try this repair process: I have repaired many rods this way, and they fish well. The external sleeve isn't pretty, but they fish well. On one of mine I had measured CCS numbers when new, and after repair they were the same. The process calls for glass sleeves, but high mod thin walled graphite works just fine and looks less obtrusive. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/repair-oquinn.html

Or use Winn grip wraps, similar stuff, lots of designs, great "gription."

if you will do the same. . . I like being able to read the depth at speed so that as the bottom starts to rise, I can slow down. Yes, it would be too late for an obstacle like a log or rock, but still has value to keep track of the depth at speed.

Yes, A-Jay, you and I are geniuses. 🙂

I get fine readings with my transducer installed as instructed by the manufacturer. Yes it is critical to have the right height, but it gets readings at all speeds up to my boat's capability , which is about 33 MPH. I find it hard to believe that with the expertise and development resources that the makers have that simply installing a transducer backwards would make sense.

Or. . . spool up with a quality mono and save the $$ and the headaches. It really does work just fine. OK, FC fans, unload.

When mixing wrap epoxy, or any two part material, here are some tips: - Thoroughly mix it, dragging it together in all directions, working to scrape it towards the center. - For wrap epoxy I count to 150 seconds before stopping - When taking it out, take it from the center. Any poorly mixed material will be at the edges. - Blow the container you will use to clear any collected dust, and be sure it's a clean container. Some use a new piece of foil every time. - Clear bubbles at the container by gently blowing the surface through a straw. - Clear bubbles at the rod by passing THE SIDE of a butane lighter flame by the whole area of the epoxy while rotating the rod. Don't put the flame under the rod.