MickD

The amount each state receives is based on a variety of criteria, including respective state fishing license sales and ratio of land to water. Only a small percentage (about 6%) of the total tax is withheld for admninstrative purposes. The next time you see your Fish and Game department improving a boat ramp, stocking a lake or river, conducting a fishery survey, etc., you'll have a good idea where the funding for these programs come from. For many, it is the primary source of their total funding.

I respectfully submit that if one cannot understand CCS and TNF (True Natural Frequency) and their implications to rod design and performance they probably should go on to another subject.

Painting the rod blank will not affect CCS numbers. They are static measurements of power and how the blank bends and are not affected by adding a slight amount of weight to the blank in the form of paint. To affect the numbers one would have to add so much weight to the blank that it would in fact deflect under the weight. That is not going to happen with any reasonable paint process. Where the paint may affect rod performance is in the recovery speed of the rod and possibly its sensitivity. The heavier the power of the rod, the less it would affect performance. But yes, theoretically, anything that adds weight to the blank will slow its recovery time but will not affect its power or action as defined by CCS. I notice the debate earlier in the discussion about different ways of getting the guides to the bottom of the blank. I don't think there has ever been any objective testing that has proven that any of the fancy schemes are any better than the simple spiral. The arguments are all based on opinions on what looks best or seems best. The simple spiral is as its name implies, simple, easy to lay out and execute, and it simply works.

And what does this mean relative to the subject being discussed?

If you cannot measure it you don't know it. The measures that are significant to blanks that you can measure are: Weight, length, power (CCS grams not ERN) , action (CCS), and True Natural Frequency (TNF). I have been measuring them all except TNF for many years, and now can measure TNF, and what I conclude is that the more you pay the more you get for what you like about blanks. That is power to weight ratio and sensitivity (basically the same thing). But as with all things, as you add more money, the return for added $$ becomes less. What is the "sweet spot?" IMHO, the sweet spot is Rainshadow Revelation, AmTak Bushido, and maybe more that I have not discovered. But Revelation is not junk. Bushido is not junk. I have never seen a sale on Point Blank. But Point Blanks have the highest TNF of any other blanks that I and a few others have tested. They are not cheap, but they are very very good. Not only sensitive, but not fragile either. They are very tough. In my opinion, they are the best I have experienced. Any brands to avoid? Not that I know of. Even the low priced low modulus blanks can make into very good rods. A lot has to do with how we build on those blanks. Get into building, build your experience, and you will come to your own conclusions.

Do a search for Maxxum videos. I know that Minnkota has a lot of helpful videos. Here is one I found, hope it helps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoqm_7udm_c

The excise tax is on all fishing equipment, a lot like the one on hunting equipment. Maybe it's the same one, but for both the money is supposed to finance habitat improvement. Here are some details: https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/sportfishingtax.html "Each fiscal year, the monies collected under the SportFishing Excise Tax (Wallop-Breaux Tax) are distributed among the Fish and Wildlife Departments of all 50 states."

So it's simply a moderate action very light power blank. Looks a lot like a fly blank. AmTak Matrix fly blank MA-F704 would most likely be very similar. A "different animal" in that it is a longer than the usual ultra light power blank. I have a Matrix 7 1/2 foot fly blank built as a spin for very small cranks. Works very well for that.

Why is the tension knob called a tension knob when it puts the spool shaft into compression, or at least it creates friction on it. Should be called a friction knob? Do you know the exact year of your reel? I have schematics of most of the old reels and the schematic called "5500 C3" shows a centrifugal system like Bulldog shows. Maybe different years. . . ? The earliest schematic, 1975, does not show centrifugal brakes. The schematics for 5500 2 speed have two centrifugal brake pins. I think the earliest one is 1991 because it's labeled "91-0"

Every blank has a measurable power, action, and natural frequency. I'd like to have someone measure this BFS "different animal in design" with CCS and TNF and show me how it's different than some other blanks. Anyone have CCS numbers on one? TNF (true natural frequency) for this discussion isn't as important as the CCS numbers. It is my opinion that if you have not measured it, and you can in this case, you really don't have a knowledgeable argument. "When you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind: it may be the beginning of knowledge, but you have scarcely, in your thoughts, advanced to the stage of science, whatever the matter may be. often quoted as ‘If you cannot measure it, then it is not science’" Lord Kelvin Please don't take this as an attack on anyone; it is simply an attempt to put numbers on BFS blanks so I can understand what makes them a "different animal."

The "stretchy" tip at 4:50 in the video above should make it easier to use the genuine Z man TRD's with longer wire keepers. Good tip. I doubt if it will make them work well with barbs, however.

As stated, as short as possible, and avoid "football" epoxy. The lighter the weight of the guides/wraps the faster the recovery speed of the rod making it feel more sensitive, crisper. It is measurable and it affects the lighter power/faster action blanks the most. My wraps for Fuji KT micro guides are probably no longer than about a quarter of an inch. Start them just a few wraps of "A" thread off the foot. There is no functional advantage to making them longer.

Need much longer arms.

The problem with most media is that epoxy will cause them to run. Others like paint won't run but they don't flow well through pen nibs. The best I've found is Dr. Ph. Martin's Irridescent inks. The regular Dr. Ph. Martins are not as solid against running when epoxy is applied. With many media products, like the regular Dr. Ph. Martins, they get pretty run-proof if let to dry overnight then apply water-based CP before the epoxy. Best to test anything you try before putting it onto a rod. Note that with the India inks that if you screw up, quickly wipe it off with a wet (water or alcohol) paper towel and you can start over. After drying they are said to be waterproof, but I'm not sure how waterproof they are.

Good advice, in my opinion. I just asked Merury customer support about starting the motor out of the water for a couple seconds to clear the water pump. They said it would not damage the engine if it's just for a couple seconds. But it is not necessary with Mercuries as they will drain all the water WHEN VERTICAL. I left the water yesterday with my merc 60 and it was tilted when I pulled it. After prepping it for travel I put it down vertical for a few seconds and significant water did flow out which tells me that if you don't go vertical right away, some water will be trapped in the lower unit.

You need a jig with a short wire keeper. Long keepers won't work well and barbs don't work at all. The Z man jigs are designed for them, and others work well too. I am going with the pro series Z-man jigs now as the originals are pretty fragile, IMHO. Other brands work well too, but the keeper has to be short and of sort of fine wire.

If you really want top quality cork you need to do one of two things: 1. Build your own grip blanks from glued up natural cork rings, top quality pricey. Then turn them to shape. It can be done on a drill press with simple jigs and sandpaper. PM me if you need instructions. or 1. Build your own grip blanks from exotic burl cork rings. A little heavier, great variety of looks, very tough and durable. Then turn them to shape.

No, I don't do videos. Regarding starting with a less expensive set of components, like a complete kit, is in my judgment, a good strategy. You will learn the process, nomenclature, and will have a very good rod in the process. With most builders their skills improve with every build at the beginning. I started with a premium blank and screwed it up with a grip too long for good ergonomics. I ended up cutting 1 1/2 inches off the butt of a $160 blank. My comment on saving money is based on the likely outcome of going more for premium blanks and components and building more rods than one would buy as complete rods. I agree that with good shopping one can build an identical rod less expensively. But one can buy complete rods on sale too, and the difference is not that great. One major advantage of building your own, if you do it right, is that you won't have reel seats and grips coming loose as so often happens with factory rods. Don't skimp on adhesive, prep the surfaces properly, and if using masking tape for arbors/bushings, totally encapsulate them.

Thanks, A-Jay.

There are many independent instructional videos on line. Search YouTube for them. Be aware that independent videos express the opinion of the producer and there is some bad advice out there. The companies that sell rodbuilding supplies and have good videos and are probably of higher integrity. Look at Mudhole.com, BetBitOutdoors, Batson Enterprises, Flex Coat, Anglersresource.net. Great articles are found in the Library at Rodbuilding.org. A few tips that might help getting started: - Nylon thread unless it is labeled NCP, or no color preservative, requires color preservative to maintain its color after epoxy. - Wrap epoxy and epoxy adhesive are two different materials and cannot be interchanged. - You'll see a lot of recommendations to heat wrap epoxy- be aware that many rod-builders never use heat and excessive heat is one of the biggest villains with respect to smooth, even , wrap finishes. - For your beginning project do not use very light colored thread on dark blanks. It is very difficult to make it look good due to almost invisible gaps between wraps showing up as blotches. - See the surface prep article in the Rodbuilding.org Library. Remember that after wrap epoxy or epoxy adhesive cures, it is very difficult to clean up. Clean up with alcohol before it cures. - Contamination from unnecessary fluid cleanups before wrapping and oil/wax/silicone contamination is probably second to heat in screwing up wraps. Best just keep it clean to begin with rather than wiping down with alcohol or other fluids. - Thread designed for embroidery machines (except rayon) can be used for wraps but definitely requires CP (color preservative) to prevent fish eyes from the lubricant in it. Good luck. You won't be saving money but you will be getting rods made just the way you want them.

There are other brands of these rigged worms that are straight in the package so should run straighter. Creme comes to mind. But if this one works, go with it. They are one of the very effective often forgotten lures from way back when.

Check this video out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slcWbnK5OPQ&list=PL70J_niOcbAVOe28mjFxAqx9xJ4CXl-Q0&index=7 You don't need all the Mudhole tools, a box as has been suggested + running the thread through a closed book (it's not critical, but you need some tension) . This will tell you how to start and finish the wrap, the biggest challenges for newbies.

If the knob shaft has an O ring on it you might be able to find one of the same diameter but thicker section.

Go Daiwa in the future.

Flannel lined jeans + breathable rain pants, woolen socks, above that lots of layers including a hooded sweatshirt, fleece, and a wind shirt over them both + a breathable rain parka. You can take it off if you have it on; you cannot put it on if you don't have it. A buff for the face, woolen cap over my fishing cap. Gloves on and off as required. For some days the ragg mittens that allow the fingers to come out will work.