MickD

I said it would be and it is. Yet there are now four more comments after yours.

". . .Standardized Precipitation Indices and the Palmer Drought Severity Index to the full suite of 22 Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change General Circulation Models for three IPCC-SRES emissions scenarios (B1, A1B, and A2 from the Special Report on Emissions Scenarios (SRES) listed in order of their emissions through 2100 from high to low). . . " These IPC models are not universally accepted. They cannot even be applied to our climate history and then give a result consistent with what happened. If they cannot resurrect the history then how can they predict the future? I don't believe anything based on the IPC models. No need to debate global warming on this forum. Better that we stick to fishing in the climate we have. I'll just make one final comment, I think this country is in for a rude awakening.

Show me a scientific paper that links the western drought with CO2.

Another insanity of this push is that so much of the battery material comes from outside the US , mostly from Communist countries. This is a national security issue. Much mined by child labor. All the supporting articles I see fail to even mention how much it will positively affect global warming. The amount is insignificant, especially with all the fossil fuel plants being built in China and India taking the numbers the wrong way. I see articles saying "The village of my ancestors is now under water," but no mention is made of how much the oceans have risen in recent history. I think it's a couple inches. This whole global warming/eliminate fossile fuels movement is full of dishonesty/hypocrisy/failure to address the major issues.

If you want to try it, I can walk you through it. Make sure you want to do it, though. I really like split grips, like the definitive feel of the butt knob. Are you sure you want to do it. Another approach is to just get another rod. One can not have too many rods. ?

I think it is ok, but it's not that difficult to do it yourself if you want to try. Try this: https://northforkcomposites.com/approved-rod-builders/ You can also do an internet search using terms like "Northeast USA fishing rod builders" or more specific to your state.

Not all braid is the same. The new 8 carrier braids (and more than 8 in some cases) are smoother, smaller diameter, and less apt to dig in than the cheaper 4 carrier braids. Since it lasts so long the price is not as big an issue as it at first seems to be. My favorite braid is Hitena Pure Line. I use 19 pound test for a spin rig on which I want lots of line since it is so small in diameter (bonefish/baracuda). But other 8 and above carrier lines are very good too. My fresh water finnesse rigs are usually 10 - 15 pound test with 8 - 15 leaders. For baitcasting most like 30 or above just to get a larger diameter.

If you want a separate small battery for the depth finder, check out the batteries used for wheelchairs and similar devices. I used to take one to Canada and it ran my old Lowrance LCC all long days, was quite light, didn't take up much space. And charged back up over night. Check its amp-hour rating against the draw of your depth finder. Look at Batteries, Bulbs, + or similar stores specializing in batteries. I always keep my big batteries hooked up to charging devices that charge then cut back and maintain. This will keep them charged without damaging them. For the small Canada battery I used a simple charger like one would use on a motorcycle battery, if I remember right.

Shimano Calcutta 100. Classic, beautiful, still casts very well considering its age. I have an old Pflueger Supreme free spool casting reel of my father's on display, neat, but not really fishable. I just cannot get used to the crank handle/knobs short span. He caught a lot of really nice walleye with it.

It has the advantage of being less likely to tangle with lures like blade baits, too. It's stiffer.

I believe but have no data that line-grade FC and mono's have more stretch than the leader-grade FC's and monos. I agree that the 8-12 feet length should work pretty well with either. I use a premium grade of fly tippet FC and am tending towards the longer lengths for stealth.

Send me a message and I'll send you instructions on how to do it and you can come to your own conclusions. I don't want to hear from lawyers of all the other brands.

It depends on how one defines "sensitivity." One expert argues that since the longer rod has a mechanical "disadvantage" relative to a shorter one of similar power and action, it will make bites easier to detect. For many years experts have argued that the higher the stiffness to weight ratio, the higher the sensitivity. And material and construction obviously can affect stiffness to weight ratio. The higher the stiffness to weight ratio, the higher the True Natural Frequency of the blank/rod. And now it is possible to easily, cheaply, and accurately measure TNF. And sure enough, the higher the price, generally, the higher the TNF. We are probably getting more sensitive rods by paying more. And, there is one brand that consistently has higher TNF's in my testing than the other brands I've tested. But we can discuss and debate "sensitivity" until the proverbial hell freezes over and still reach no consensus. One thing I know for sure is that there is no "sensitivometer." It is my opinion that if one is using FC or mono, and desires higher sensitivity (ability to feel the bite and lure action) the biggest gain will come by switching to braid, much higher improvement than seeking a higher sensitivity rod.

With tip down jerking, that's about the right length for me, too.

another way to do it is with a tiny black cable tie instead of an O ring. No tools except pliers to cut them, holds well, fits any lure.

The lower on the rod the break is the higher the probability of having a fishable rod after repair. I just repaired a light power spin rod broken about 6 inches below the tip and the owner is pleased with how it fishes. Yes, a newbie can do it; a friend of mine did it successfully. Use epoxy designed for rod building, not something from the hardware store. Consult these sites: https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/repair-oquinn.html https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html Keep the pieces clean and free of any contamination, and don't think that wiping with alcohol is necessary or correct. I have only used an internal plug once when I had a fly rod that was shattered in about in the middle and it needed the plug to hold the pieces together so the external sleeve would be supported. It worked fine. Usually only the external sleeve is necessary. Keep in mind that the most common error is making the repair too rigid thus forming stress risers. O'Quinn talks about this, if I remember right. I have found that it really doesns't matter whether the sleeve is glass or graphite, but would recommned using glass if you can find it.

I'm pretty sure there are some warnings on certain waters all over the country.

I'm not Daiwa expert, but really like my Tatula SX 103. Can one of the experts here explain to me the differences I would find between the Tatula Elite and the Zillion? thanks,

If you have a choice between carb and EFI, take the EFI. I can't imagine both being offerred, but I won't buy a carb engine any more. EFI's start and run better, last longer without maintenance.

Good advice, in my opinion.

If you don't have to return the broken rod to them, keep it. For three reasons. It may be repairable and good for a spare if not primary use. It also is a source for components (mostly guides) that you might need in the future. Pieces of the blank can be used to repair other rods. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/repair-oquinn.html

The testing has indicated that most "premium" blanks (I have not tested any "store bought" rods since I build all of mine) do have higher natural frequencies than lower modulus blanks. This is good news, IMO, since it says we are generally getting what we pay for with blanks. But there are some surprises when dealing with complete rods and the effects of guide mass/material/design. It's too complicated to go into in a post like this. There is one premium blank brand that generally has the highest TNF's of similar blanks by other makers according to my testing and that of a couple other builders. But keep in mind that I certainly have not tested every blank model nor even all brands. From what I have seen of store bought rods in repair requests I have to conclude that custom builders offer a superior product with respect to reel seat/grip structural integrity and cork quality. Plus the entry into the market of numerous really high quality brands of carbon fiber grips offers options that are generally not available on most store bought rods.

Not quite true. I agree with your whole post except for this. It is very easy to test for objective power and action characteristics of all blanks and rods by using the CCS system developed by a brilliant (deceased) guy Dr. William Hanneman. The answer for power is a measurement in grams of how many grams it takes to deflect the blank to 1/3 its length while mounted in a specific way, and the action answer is the angle (called action angle) of the tip when the blank/rod is deflected as above. The higher the number the faster the action. https://www.common-cents.info/ The testing does no damage in any way to the blank/rod. If one gets numbers he does not like he can return it. Of course shipping gets in the way a bit, but if purchased locally from a reputable seller, easy peasy. When I get a blank that tests with numbers similar to a rod that I like I know before building that I will end up with a rod that fishes very much like the rod I like. The numbers do a very good job of describing how it will fish. If one wants to go further and measure the True Natural Frequency of blanks and rods, that too is easy and probably can be done with equipment most fishermen already have. This is argued to be a good indicator of sensitivity. Hi modulus blanks generally have higher TNF's than lower modulus blanks. I can provide details if messaged. Point Blank and Rainshadow's RX10 series have manufacturer-specified/published CCS numbers. (for blanks)

Seems like hi vis mono would be a big mistake since it goes all the way to the lure. I like 14 pound test Suffix Elite camo for baitcasting, prefer premium braids + a leader for spin (for the better sensitivity/bite detection.

This requirement, IMHO, is highly overated. You have to consider rod length as well. A fast action 7 1/2 foot rod is a lot like a 6 foot moderate action rod on a one foot stick. A 6 foot fast action rod is a lot different with respect to the issue of keeping trebles in.