MickD

If you can find them.

For tip down you don't want it too long, get the power that best casts the lure weight you plan to use, and fast action rather than X-fast. (you don't want the tip "too soft.")

Agree with Team9nine, DT's are and have been the best series of cranks ever made. Consisently effective.

Of course that is possible, even probable since all H's are not the same and all F's are not the same.

Many of the pros don't really understand the numbers of what they instinctively know they like. I've heard them talking action when they mean power, and vice versa. Of course. If it's an "X fast" action it has to have a softer tip compared other "powerful" rods which are not "X fast." Regarding teaching, the more we teach the more is learned.

Me too. I won't use them if other boats are around, but I find them more accurate easier to stay on than GPS.

Yes, and if it's not too powerful it will have a "soft tip." If it's too powerful the tip will not likely be what most would call "soft tip." But I know that if the rod has an ERN of about 16 and an AA of 80 or close, most would consider the tip soft. If it has an ERN of about 16 and an AA of about 55 most would not call the tip soft. If I have a rod I like and it's a 16/80 but I call it a "MXF" what chance do you think I could get a very similar rod by ordering a "MXF?" from another maker? If it's a St Croix it will probably have an ERN of about 20, if a Dobyns, from what I hear, it could be an ERN of 13. The action would likely be about an AA of 78 from St Croix, and I don't know what I would get from Dobyns. More and more blank makers are publishing their CCS numbers and we custom builders, by using them, can pretty much duplicate the power and actions of rod people like, regardless of the maker. I think you have to admit that "some flex in the tip" doesn't do a very good job of describing a rod. Good discussion. I hope some "truths" get through.

This is all subjective. If you really want to understand rods you have to get into the numbers. What is "less expensive?" What is "more expensive?" What is "MH?" What is "F?" Hybrid? It's all in our minds, which are all different. With different perceptions. I don't mean to be a pain, but probably am being one by continuing to emphasize that all these subjective descriptions do very little to bring clarity to the issue. They simply don't mean the same to everyone. However, a CCS ERN (effective rod number) of 25 means only one thing. All rods with ERN's of 25 will have the same power. They will have the same power to all of us. It's like 60 miles per hour is 60 miles per hour to all of us. It might be slow to some of us and fast to some of us, but it's 60 miles per hour to all of us. All rods with AA (action angle) of 82 will have the same action, and most would consider it extra fast. Some might call it fast instead of extra fast, but it's still 82 degrees to all of us. The fact is that price has really nothing to do with what powers and actions are available-blank manufacturers can give you the same powers and actions at many price points. What will differ between blanks at different price points are the weights and response times. (Think sensitivity) To get minimum weight at the same power takes more expensive materials. Same for faster response times. " This quote from a pro is the perfect illustration of how little value subjective comments like this are. I would say that every rod I've ever held had "some flex in the tip." But he obviously isn't talking about every rod I've ever held, so he and I obviously are not on the same page. He has something specific in mind, but is not communicating it very accurately. How much flex in the tip is Denny talking about? What are the units for "flex?" Only he really knows from that statement. I think he is advocating for what most would call an extra fast action, but I'm not really sure.

They are both called H/F, but that is simply how the manufacturer describes them in subjective terms. If you really want to know how these rods compare do CCS numbers on them. It is not difficult and when you do it you really gain insight into the rod characteristics.

How do you determine that they have identical power and action?

Amazing, I don't do anything you say has to be done. I'm not sure why you are having so much trouble, but part of it may be that you are using cheap braid that is flat and not round, and that you have your drag set way too high. I am having no trouble with braid on a spin , and while I prefer mono on baitcasters, I still can use braid on them without problems that you mention

What does slower mean? Exactly! Which means that it is about power, not action. And it is a subjective term, has no actual measurement, so it can mean anything to anybody, accurate to them in their terms. It just so happens that X-fast action rods have tips that many describe as "soft" because the rest of the rod is anything but "soft." Those really interested in describing rods accurately and objectively should read about and start measuring CCS. https://www.common-cents.info/

Since the two rods have the same power, ( same deflection at same load ) and the faster action one is bending less in the lower section it has to have a less powerful (softer) tip to have the same total deflection. Give it some thinking time and it will make sense. Some extra fast action rods with considerable power have almost floppy tips.. Are you familiar with "hotshot" rods? Action by definition is where the rod initially bends. Xfast near the tip, Fast a little farther down etc. Too bad aong time ago someone decided to describe a static characteristic in terms normally used to describe relative speed. I'm told it came from describing cane rods, "fast" tapers vs slow tapers. With the fast bending initially nearer the tip.

I submit that "loading weight range" is simply another measure of power, leaving action and power as at least the primary two classification parameters. But rod length and weight have to get into it too. "Soft tip" is actually a measure of power, in my opinion. As stated, you can have the same "softness" of the tip in both fast and slow action rods. It is interesting, but not universally understood that if you have two rods with the same power the faster the action the softer the tip. The capability of a rod to do specific things well depends on the proper mix of power, action, weight, and length. Then there is material. . . which leads to true natural frequency. . . This could go on and on, well beyond intent of this string of posts.

Nice to get a comment from someone as expert as Smalljaw67. If you ty jigs and have not seen his videos, you're missing some really good stuff. I'll try palmering!

Have never palmered. Never thought of it. Stacking works well.

For topwater FC can sink and spoil the action of some surface lures. Better to use mono on those rigs. I personally have moved to straight mono on my crankbait rods, braid just hasn't proven to be as easy to cast well without problems. For those using a leader, there is really no need for a leader longer than about 4-6 feet. That length keeps it out of the reel.

With GPL205 "easiness of cranking" gets better or worse?

Take a look at the video by Smalljaw on powder painting jigs, his process seems like a piece of cake compared to using an oven.

Can you tell us if you have real data on what materials it attacks? It's used on seals and O rings and I believe plastics, so it seems like it wouldn't dissolve a reel. But I have no data or in-depth knowledge.

Overkill IMHO. And, according to what I read, it is insoluble in "nearly all solvents." What do you use to get it off when you finally think it's time to replace it? From a search Novec 7100 "engineered fluid" available by the gallon or 12 pound bottles is recommended. I think I'll stick with "reel grease." Anything except that red stuff.

Yes, not pitting or more commonly called spalling. I would call it scoring as Way2slow mentioned from bearing inner races spinning on the spindle. I'm not sure how this can happen without the bearings being "locked up" with there being less torque needed to spin the inner races than it takes for the bearings to turn naturally as designed. It could be that the bearing would lock periodically due to lube failure or inadequate lube causing the race to spin relative to the spindle. If this is true, you are very lucky to have not had a catastrophic failure already. Regardless of the cause, it is definitely wrong; there is a serious problem. I would take it to a trailer specialist and have it fixed right.

I don't have any true St. Croix SC4. I have a method of measuring the true natural frequency of blanks and rods, no weight added like in CCF by Hanneman. Interestingly the Rodgeeks Carbon 4 70MF natural frequency is well below that of the St Croix SCV 70MF, both one piece rods. The SCV's are towards the upper range of rods tested, but not quite the highest. BUT, the SCV 70MF remains one of my favorites. The others that are a little higher in natural frequency are in the top group of favorites, also.

Big water smallies are not as sensitive to the "mid day slump" as largemouths, in my opinion, and some of my best fishing for numbers and size has come around noon. It's more about the wind than time of day. If I had to pick one short time period, though, I would pick late afternoon, but well before dusk. 3:30-5:30.

https://anglersresource.net/static-load-tutorial/ Don't worry about a tool to align the guides, just use your eyes. Point the rod towards a light source that gives a good view of the guides and keep tweaking them based on your observations of them until they look right. They will be right.