MickD

The original question was, to paraphrase, "at what price point does one get a diminishing return from paying more for a rod." Depends on what one is looking for in a rod. As someone already mentioned, the most expensive rods are made of the most expensive and sensitive material, and will have high quality guides and often higher levels of bling. But for some techniques sensitivity is not that important. So you have to define what you want in a rod to answer the question, and it will be answered only for you and your definition of quality. For example, is salt water corrosion capability important, or included in your definition of quality? If not, paying for that corrosion capability is wasted money. I have to say at this point though that one never gets a "diminishing return," regardless of price. But there is what I call a "sweet spot" in price where adding more money gets you a lesser increase in value. (And I think the original poster really meant to get at this issue) I think, from my personal perspective, that that point on rod blanks for our typical bass fishing is around $80. When you pay more, you will get more, but the differences in sensitivity/weight between $80 and $100 will be less than you got when going from $60 to $80. When you go from $100 to $150 you will get more "quality" as I define it, but not at the same ratio of "quality vs dollars added" that you got going from $80 to $100. For factory rods, which I'm not as familiar with, I would guess that the sweet spot is probably around $150. But this is more of a guess than an informed declaration.

Keep in mind that very little heat is required to break bubbles. You can break most of them by gently blowing through a straw. One of the causes of wavy epoxy is too much heat. If I use a flame, and I don't always use one, I will just "wipe" the edge of the flame by the rotating blank. You don't want to really heat the epoxy, you just want a little heat to be near enough to break (by expanding the air in them) the bubbles. If my room is on the cool side I'll heat the epoxy bottles a little in hot water before mixing. One of the all time experts on building and epoxy uses the method mentioned of keeping the bottles in his pocket a while before mixing. I use lite build epoxy and almost invariably use two coats. Very few bubble problems. One thing to watch if using a blower is that it can pick up dust and blow it onto the epoxy.

I use both, have no problems. Different strokes for different folks. If one is having trouble with one or the other I suggest simply keeping on using them and most likely it will become second nature.

Neds and Ocho's

The lighter shades of green in tubes and soft sticks just don't seem to produce for me, but similar colors in Rapala DT cranks work fine. ??

The old Hydramatic transmissions had many roller clutches, one way clutches, that worked in trans fluid. I'm pretty old, so my examples are pretty old.

Other possibillities to use are shoes and purses. Each has its specific value based on the technique/look one is trying to accomplish.

I have never seen the need to take the drag of a casting reel apart. The one reel I submerged for a few days was sent to an expert for service. I'm surprised to hear that lubricant can affect the AR bearing that way. In auto transmissions the same type bearings operate submerged in trans oil. What am I missing?

Just because you have backing doesn't prove that the line isn't slipping on the spool. Look carefully to observe the spool rotating during the malfunction. Just to be sure.

It's a deal. I'll bring it to you at Lake Manderchuck or whatever its name is in May. Please send directions.

Seems like it shouldn't take 6-15K bucks to outsmart a fish with a pea sized brain. But maybe that fish's brain is bigger than ours. I'm for using tech in what I define as a reasonable fashion, but not playing video games on the water, and I look forward to a more "traditional and serene" day of fishing. Everyone can define "reasonable."

There is nothing that TW should have done. Every vendor on the internet has had customers scammed or attempted to be scammed based on their business with the vendor. I recently got a message from "Paypal" telling me that I had bought $876 from xyz. If I wanted to cancel the transaction I had 24 hours to contact a link. All this looked like Paypal. It was not Paypal. How would Paypal have even known about it? Should I go onto the internet and post "Paypal scam?" TW is not the villain in any way here. There is nothing that they should have done.

Everyone seems to be assuming it takes sophisticated technology to get scammed. What about handing your card to a waiter/waitress to pay for a meal? It goes out of sight the info on it can be copied and used. There are a bazillion ways to get scammed, some high tech and some not high tech. And TW is not scamming and has not scammed anyone.

Too bad this string got titled "Tackle Warehouse scam" since there is no evidence of any misbehavior by Tackle Warehouse.

The reason I don't use a debit card is that with a credit card I get to use other people's money free for as long as a month and I get some free Cabelas stuff which is sort like a "stealth" fishing tackle account.

Popping blank AA about 65?

I'll buy some pliers that don't require WD40 or 3 in 1 to keep them from rusting. I'm not sure how I would keep the smell of the anti-corrosion treatment from getting onto my lures.

I simply have never fished the Titabawassee, so would like to learn about it. I have heard it's a good smallie river. Closest I've come was late fall walleye fishing in Saginaw near where it forms the Saginaw River. At least I think that is the case.

We are close, so if I can help in the future, let me know. Then you can teach me the ***. I've always been interested in it, but never gotten up there. I've fished the Shia since a young kid.

I would start with an inexpensive kit to get familiar with the parts and processes. Before long I recommend you get into turning your own grips from rings which will allow you to get shapes/sizes/looks that you want. You don't need a lathe, but a drill press really helps. If you need help on how to rig one for turning cork, let me know.

Probably 25 days before Christmas. Sorry, couldn't resist. I noticed the Pflueger Supreme XT on sale at Cabelas and ordered one, they said it shipped. Great reel, great price.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it. As is always mentioned on this forum: "I must have had a bad batch." ? I really like the Suffix Elite.

I used to use YoZuri hybrid for bait-casting, 12 and 14 pound test if I remember correctly. I left it since it seemed so stretchy, like using a rubber band (yes, exaggeration). My current favorite is Suffix Elite. I'm using 14. I have not noticed the stretchy sensation. Elite casts every bit as well, maybe better than the YZ, and MUCH better than braid or FC.

Does the split ring nose compromise other uses of the pliers, like grabbing hooks to remove them from fish? I've never had pliers with that nose.

I think the Creme brand is still very much with us. https://www.cremelure.com/