MickD

That comment was made because while the reel is involved in Fuji's and some other guide calculations, other quite rigorous testing has shown little to no influence. "Despite" would have been better, but "in spite" is also correct (https://dictionary.cambridge.org/us/grammar/british-grammar/in-spite-of-and-despite). With the KLH 20-10-5.5 reduction train you can use just about any size reel and never detect a difference in casting performance. My statement was not an attack on you; it was only a comment to clarify that there is another well-founded opinion on the subject of the importance of the reel. You really think my comment amounted to this? "a malicious, usually petty, desire to harm, annoy, frustrate, or humiliate another person; bitter ill will; malice." I assure you, that was not the case.

I reviewed all the posts in this string and I cannot see where I was combative, and I was just using your words back in my last comment. My question to Spoonplugger was not combative; I simply asked for clarification of his opinion. The rest of my comments were simply stating my opinion and offering alternatives that have worked for me. I'll leave it at this.

Sorry, didn't realize I was combative. I realize that the software uses the reel characteristics, but some subjective testing by others has shown that the reel spool angle has very little if anything to do with casting distance. I should have been more specific, I guess, since the height of the reel is possibly significant. The higher guides allow smaller ring sizes. Having said that, I cannot see any difference in the performance of my 20-10-5.5 setups between size 2500 and 4000 reels. They just all work fine. I stand by my opinion that the biggest factor in casting performance is the line. With a low enough pound test decent braid any reasonable guide train will work fine. Is there some other underlying reason why you are so sensitive?

I'm sure you're going to love the rod you build on the SCV blank. I'm doing some work that is revealing the true natural frequency of rod blanks and rods. Most experts believe that sensitivity is proportional to true natural frequency (no weight added to the blank when tested in order to get the frequency down-true natural means just tweak it and measue its natural frequency). What it has shown so far is the SCV is one of the highest natural frequency blanks out there. Among the best. And I have not found blanks that cost less to be as high. So you are in fact getting good value for your extra investment. At least I haven't found the outlyer to that yet.

If you want the flexibility to go up on reel size and line pound test you can simply use the Fuji KLH 20-10-5.5 reduction train and it will work just fine with lighter lines and smaller reels. There is very little influence by the reel in spite of it being considered in many recommendations. I use the 20-10-5.5 with reels from 2500 to 4000 and cannot tell the difference. The biggest thing to consider is line, and as I stated, the Fuji 20-10-5.5 will work well up into the 20-30 pound test range, especially if you use the 8-12 strand braids. While those lines are more expensive than the usual braids, they last for years without deterioration, so are more economical than one would think if just considering their intial cost. 21 pound Hitena casts well with both the 20-10-5.5 and the 16-8-5.5. I think the offering from Hitena Pureline now is 19 pound test instead of the old 21. I use 2 KB's 4 KT's on 7-71/2 foot rods, all the same size. (9 guides + tiptop), use the Anglers Resource software, and have never been able to improve on it by test casting. I don't even test cast any more. I use size 4 runners with the "improved" Alberto (tie it like the charts then add two half hitches of the braid tag, tighten down tightly). If one is not good with a small knot it would be better to use size 5's. By the way, one of my favorite spin rods for finesse, from Neds up to and past Keitech 3.8's is my Point Blank 701MLF. Point Blanks are wonderful rods, very versatile, can be used effectively for just about anything. It has the Fuji KLH system, 20-10-5.5,

I'm not familiar with the specific rods being discussed, but if two rods have the same power and one is a fast action and the other is an Extra Fast, the extra fast will have the softer, less powerful tip. It has to be that way in order for them to have the same power.

I never use a 25. Always use braid and Fuji KLH 20 or 16 are what I use. KLH 20-KLH10-KL5.5M or KLH16-KLH8-KL5.5M. Reel size isn't important; I use up to Stradic 4000's with these setups. I'm not familiar with the blank, but the blank power should be chosen based on the weight of the lures expected to be used most of the time. The length of the blank shouldn't affect the guide design. I know some will disagree. I use premium braids, mostly Hitena Pureline 21 pound test. With cheaper braids I can't go as high as that, limited to about 15. Spoonplugger, why the statement about a lower modulus being better? I would think that the SCV ML would be ideal for light lures/long casts if designed right. And they are very high modulus. Mine cast like crazy.

I just have not been able to get bit on grubs for a while. I look at them in the water and can hardly see them. Not so for swim baits, and for me, swim baits have been much more effective. I don't claim to understand it, just giving my impressions. Caught a 7 inch perch last week on a 3.8 inch swim bait. Filled his mouth so full I could hardly get the hook out.

My Monark had that tendency, but my Lund Rebel 165 does not. With the Monark there was nothing that could eliminate that tendency.

Remember the string of posts on the forum that talked about replacing blade bait trebles with a single hook? Worked just fine, decent hook-up rate, lure worked just as well as with trebles, and didn't get hung up as often when it hit the bottom. Counted down 20 feet.

Last big one of the year, 3 oz off my best.

I think the newer longer grips are better for longer rods. The pistol grips were used when rods were typically shorter, like 5 feet instead of 7. But there is no reason why a new custom rod based on a pistol grip will not work if that's what you want. I would be hesitant to do one of longer length rods without mocking it up and trying it.

that's pretty big, A-Jay.

If I am interpreting the issue properly it is that the engine is leading/turning the boat differently at different trim positons. If this is happening I think you have to make a decision as to which position you want the effect to be neutral, or straight. I would do this at the throttle and trim positon I use the most for long distance running.

Hitena Pureline comes in white and gray, and I doubt if there is a better braid out there. Beyond Braid, check their wegsite, has camo and some kind of green, maybe more. That is good quality line, too.

I used to do it, but not since reels have gotten so complex - I'll leave it to experts. If you take reasonable care of your reels it will not be necessary very often. Mine go years between being taken apart. I oil the moving parts that are on the outside and inject a little grease every couple years. I keep them off the ground, don't allow them to be submerged, keep them in clean areas when stored and in transit.

Makes sense if NFC is on their good mode, responsive, shipping on time, etc, but not if on their often mode, ignoring messages, not shipping, no communication. Take a gamble. Might pay off.

I didn't say it couldn't be done, I simply asked for a description of it. I can make a lot of rods that weigh less than 3 oz, but I'm not sure I want to fish them.

What you are describing is most likely an extra fast action. Heavy is a power term, and when you put a light/soft tip into the desription you are describing a heavy power extra fast action. If you have something in hand with the characteristics you want try to find a custom builder who can give you the CCS specs on it, power and action angle. Then when you find something that you think matches it you can have that measured. Without having objective numbers describing the power and action you are dealing with opinions as to power and action, not facts. How light? How fast? How heavy? Is your "lighter/softer" the same as mine? Or his? "Lighter/softer than what? The fact is that you can set up your own CCS measuring setup quite easily. https://www.common-cents.info/ You don't need to have the big sheet of pegboard, you can simply measure from the tip to the floor for the unloaded and loaded condition.

Please describe the less than 3 oz rod. thanks,

Want the best? Hitena Pure Line. Suffix 832 next.

Good observation. And for some techniques this advantage is a disadvantage. IMHO, except for leaders, there is no reason to use FC. I'll be glad to ship you my half spools of FC, just pay the shipping. I have quite a few.

Try some Suffix Elite mono, about 14 pound test, and you'll never go back to FC.

There is also the possibility that your 4 and 6 pound test lines are actually higher in pound test than the label while the other lines may not be higher than their label resulting in the first testing higher than label and the others lower than label? Are the 8's and 10's Vanish? Are all lines the same maker and model lines? If not then you could have a couple lines with superior knot strength and a couple with inferior knot strength.

I built a 7-2 medium power XF action M1 blank into a rod that I find is excellent for finesse (tubes, hair jigs, etc). Actually I use it for a lot of stuff. My impression is that it is a very sensitive, light-for-its -power blank. Its power is just a little more than the St Croix SCV 70MF, and its softer tip (due to XF action) makes it just fine for finesse. I don't think you will be disappointed.