MickD

Yes. I like longer rods for a number of reasons, but since I build my own, a longer blank allows me to shorten it from the butt if I have to to get the rod I want.

Spoonplugger, it probably happens when the line is slack. But it happens, so what is the solution? I say filling the gap to make a smooth transition.

Another possibility is Sally Hensen nail top coat, available at any store that carries beauty products. It is UV resistant, dries fast, and is pretty thick, so should fill a gap nicely. I've used it for similar little repairs.

It really is not. Dr. Bill Hanneman many years ago developed what he named the "Common Sense System" for objectively rating the power and action of blanks and rods. It was aimed at the time for fly rods, but it is universal and many custom builders have been using it for years. It gives a power number and an action angle which describes the "speed" of the action. Some manufacturers of custom blanks have started using it. One of the biggest, Batson/Rainshadow just introduced a new line of premium blanks and published CCS data on all the blanks. Anglers Resource, distributers of the Point Blank premium blank series publishes CCS data on all their blanks. Pac Bay has published CCS data on some of their blanks. I expect the use of it to continue to grow. It is not difficult to set up the "tools" required for builders and fishermen to measure their own rods, and in time, have a better understanding of this issue. I measure every blank I get my hands on. For more info on it go to https://www.common-cents.info/ The big board described in the literature is ideal, but not necessary. I do not use a big, space consuming board like that, and can show my system to anyone who would like to set theirs up.

It is about impossible to balance a 7' 6" rod, regardless of the reel. If you make the butt long enough to balance it will be way too long for good ergonomics. If one wants a rod to be balanced, better go short rather than long.

The Milliken looks like a pretty good quality rod. The modern ferrules make multi-piece rods behave almost identically to one piece rods. Just a little heavier.

I don't think it will be a problem. I've done similar. Try just a drop in some unobtrusive place. Make sure the wraps are clean and dry and any loose pieces picked off.

Don't assume that the two line stress test is more complicated or harder than the one line test. It is said to be more accurate and it's actually a lot easier than the one line test because the guides are not taking the loading of the rod. Therfore they don't have to be as tightely attached to the rod AND they may be moved without unloading the rod. it is much easier using two lines.

Rule of thumb is the length of the rod + 1 + the tiptop, so a 7 foot rod would have 8 guides and a tiptop. I almost invariably use 9. About 19-21 inches is right for the distance from the line guide of the reel to the first guide. Guides are best located by using the two line stress test as shown on the Anglersresource.net web site. I just did a rod for which the blank maker published a recipe for guide locations, and my locations after the first guide from the tip were quite different. I'll trust my stress test. There are differences of opinion about just about everything in rodbuilding, so develop your own experience using sound basic practices. Lots of good tutorials on line, FlexCoat.com has a bunch.

I am curious about how long they hold on after biting a no-hook lure. Knowing this might help me figure out missed fish, and whether I should slow down on the hook set. Can you describe your experience? thanks

Yes yes yes! Braid less than 15 pound test with a FC leader about 5 feet long will do it. The light braid will cast very well (make sure you fill the spool properly on your spin reel) and facilitate long casts and better hook sets and the FC leader about 10-15 pound test will be nearly invisible) Ned rig, tubes, and white Keitech 3.8 fat swim baits on a 3/16 or 1/4 oz jig (try slow and steady along the bottom and snapping them off the bottom). If they are there, this will work. LONG CASTS. 3.5 inch tubes, usually watermelon, white, or watermelon/candy work well too. Experiment with retrieve from slow drag to hopping. Often with all these lures on long casts the fish will strike on the fall before you even start the retrieve. Yes yes yes!

Double foot for strength in the lower part of the rod where the stresses on the guides are the highest, and single foot for less weight on the top where the stresses are lower. Works fine. The lighter weight out on the rod makes the tip faster in responding from deflections and makes the rod more sensitive.

When I am using my spinning rods I often cast with them. Often very long casts. I seldom just drop the line below the boat. Yes, spinning rods are used for casting. I don't have that problem since I build my own and use CCS objective power measurements.

It is important for rods used for casting that the power be appropriate for the weight of the lure being cast, so that they load properly thus making longer and easier casts. "Light" power rods are useful for casting small cranks and as mentioned above, Neds with light jigs. They can handle big fish if the water is open rather than very weedy. They cannot keep a big fish from diving into the weeds. For light power rods longer is better because the casting distance and hook sets with the short "ultra lights" that many like are really problematic. Longer rods cast farther and give better hook sets.

It's not that complicated. Get rid of the FC and use mono. With just about any knot you want.

There are wires available in multiple packs from Lure Parts Online and Cabelas that work fine. About 3-3.5 inches long, about .030 diamter, I think. I didn't have to cut mine. But they look just like the ones shown in the photo above.

Tokyo rig works great with Keitech 3.8 fat and KVD Perfect Plastics 5 in swimbaits for SMB, LMB, pike, and walleyes. They go through weeds well and just don't get snagged on rocky bottoms. They are a little pricey, but easy to make by buying the wires and coupling them with a bullet weight, a snap, and the hook of your choice. Much cheaper and work just as well.

Yes!

In this situation I leave a few cents to make sure the server knows I didn't forget. I'm lucky to have seldom had fishing guides who were not excellent.

Go to the St Croix site and read their articles on materials. I have no idea what blanks the Johnny Morris rods are built on, but I expect they are good. St Croix Victory is SCIII, the material Avid has been utilizing for as long as I can remember. There may be updates/improvements with time, but it is a fine material, but not the top of the line. I have built a few rods on it, and it is a fine material for the money. SCVI - The site states it is too high a modulus to be used alone so it is utilized with other materials. A blend? Not sure, but it's top of the line and will bring top dollar. I have built a large number of SCV spin rods and they are terrific rods, always stay one of my favorites. Light for the power and very sensitive. I don't know what RTX5 means. Maybe by reading the stuff on the St Croix site you can figure it out. Anything St Croix does will be good stuff. Keep in mind that what you get on forums like this is OPINION. Most of us are not rod engineers, and most of us think we know more than we really know. So the best thing is for you to work to become knowledgeable with your own information.

The U40 and Flex Coat brush cleaners work great on epoxy and other stuff I've tried them on. Great products. As stated above, not alcohol.

Not sure about the wife, though. ?

I fixed a very nice, expensive, blank that I had crushed while trying to bend a guide, by doing this. My son has fished the rod for many years and the rod has not failed.

Good point , Tom, and another opportunity to convince her that she is not only affecting how the rig looks, but how it functions. Nicking the spool is at some time going to cost her fish, cut line, time not fishing but spent fixing.

If your wife is a frugal person regarding tackle costs, use that card to impress on her how she may be risking needlessly paying for more tackle. Show her the difference between her reel and yours, and explain that you'd really like to keep yours looking good as well as working well. Get a small tackle bag for her to carry her "stuff" and suggest she put the rod/reel on it, balanced so the blank doesn't contact the rocks and the rod/reel are on the soft bag. I think this idea has a lot of promise. Make it easy for her to do it right. Keep in mind that women have the ultimate control, so there may not be much you can do about it other than keep your rod in your hands and not in hers. Make sure you want to fight this war before you fight it. Might not be worth the cost. But if she is a rational person you should be able to work this out.