MickD

Slight. For the purpose under question, I'll bet the differences are inconsequential, and as someone mentioned, the lighter the pound test the more stretch. I find all the monos, FC's, and mixes to have more stretch than I want except for braid to lure leaders.

I think what you call the "lazy Alberto" is actually an Albright, isn't it? This knot, the shin, is similar but taking the line through a loop in the braid makes it a different knot, and should make it less likely to unravel.

Funny how different people react differently to different knots. The Shin looks like a good knot, should stay tight, but while some find it easy to tie, I just cannot seem to get it, and cannot control the loop while trying to wrap the leader loop. I find the Alberto much easier to tie.

I cannot recommend auto-stow too much. It's that good. You can with a push of the button stow from the back seat, no climbing back to the front and onto the deck. I wasn't sure I should go with it, but decided to, and boy, am I glad I did. As you age, it gets more important, too. It has push button trim , too, which is so much better than loosening and moving a clamp, then retightening it. With the push button trim it takes seconds and can be done from anywhere in the boat.

In this case, or in similar ones, it is imperitive to cut off the OTHER HOOKS before doing any hook removal procedures.

I use both 12 carrier braid (Hitena Pure Line 21 pound test and 15 pound test) and 4 carrier Power Pro and Beyond Braid. I really don't see a difference relative to knot integrity. I still believe that adding two half hitches, stoutly tightened, makes the Alberto super reliable. I am using it more and more and getting less and less experience with the FG. My experience with the FG concludes that it's a better knot for leaders 15 and above than it is for lighter test leaders. It may be because there isn't enough thickness in the lighter test leaders to get a good mechanical interlock between the braid and the leaders. Reference my old photos above on how the braid embeds into the leader deforming it greatly.

Not a feasible option, IMHO. It gets everywhere it's not supposed to be, and if there is any water nearby, it bonds to whatever it's in contact with. Additionally, the dispensers get sealed shut from a drop of water that gets into the tip, so I have to stick a wire down it again. The double half hitch works without the problems of super glue.

Two other things should be remembered. First, inflate per the recommendations. Over inflation can cause excessive wear in the center of the tread, under inflation excessive wear to the outside of the tread, but usually symmetrical (even on both edges). If you notice other strange wear patterns your trailer may be out of alignment. Alignment shops can check and fix this.

I use the VMC drop shot rigs with the tiny swivels, and the fish don't seem to care.

I have been there, and have taken out trebles from my hands in about the same configuration as presented. The one thing I would suggest to improve the method is to cut the other two hooks of the treble off before jerking the embedded one out. Preloading as best you can to push the hook away from the barb will help too. I took a fairly large spinnerbait trailer hook out of a partner in the wilds of Canada this way, and he was amazed at how nicely it worked. Next day you couldn't tell it had even happened.

Usually Hitena Aquinix LT in 14.9 pound test, also Suffix Invisiline leaders in 12 and 15.

I use leader grade FC, including fly tippet material. Limper isn't better for leaders and drop shot set-ups. Stiffer tangles less. Leader grade may be tougher than line grade, although some will debate it. I don't think line twist will be any different no matter what you use. I use VMC drop shot rigs with the swivels and use lighter leader for the sinker drop so it will break below the hook. Just replace the lower piece.

Thanks everyone. I'm now an expert. Sort of . I appreciate your help.

I gather from the pic that you cut them out with an Exacto knife? How do you do the hole? thanks,

I see comments regularly about upgrading reels (both spin and baitcast) with carbontex drag washers, and I'm interested. However, going onto Ebay I find tons of offers, but I've yet to find one relating to specific models of reels, and I find no dimensions. How does one assure himself that he's going to get washers that fit? Thanks!

I don't think that one needs to pay a fortune for good polarized glasses. The difference between $50 glasses and $200 glasses, I just don't get. I use no line bi-focles, polarized, about $100 from Zenni and they work fine. The main things are to have the right prescription and to keep them clean.

For my rods with small micro guides, the surgeon's knot just isn't the best knot. I use both the FG and the Alberto with the Danek finish. After tying the Alberto, finish it with two half hitches of the braid, pulled tightly, to prevent it from unravelling. FG is more compact, but for the lines I use, the Alberto works fine and is easier to tie. I'll do FG's in the pole barn setting rods up, but when on the water will do the Alberto with the Danek finish. No doubt the double uni is easy and reliable, but it just gets too big with the leaders I use.

A lot of fishermen use FC on baitcasters and make it work. A lot of fishermen, like I am, cannot make it work satisfactorily. I don't like it because it is not nearly as manageable as mono or braid, and I don't like its stretch. It doesn't work well on surface lures because it screws up their action when it sinks. If you use braid, use about 40 pound test even though you don't need it that strong. It's about getting the right diameter, not about the strength. Braid too thin might dig into itself on the spool, and that can be a disaster. I use braid and use a leader with it so I'm not always cutting off the main line and because it eliminates any doubt I may have about fish being line shy from the thick braid.

FC in order to be soft enough has to be so low in pound test that it will be very fragile, easily damaged. I don't think FC is appropriate for spin. If you go only 10 pound test or similar with braid you don't even need a leader unless you want one. I use a leader so I'm not cutting off main line all the time, even if I don't need it for avoiding the fish seeing the line. But fish can't see the very fine braid even in very clear water. They are focused on the lure and the line is very thin.

Ned is the easiest technique there is. Done right it's just leave it there and the fish eat it. Or you can, like I do, get impatient and move it around, nudging it a little, hopping it now and then. BUT, it only works if, as mentioned by another, if there are fish there.

I have not used any live bait in years. When one learns how to use artificial lures, both hard and soft, he will most likely be more effective than he was in his "live bait" days. But it does take time and patience to learn. The advantages of artificials are many, including not getting bait bedding all over the boat, not having to keep bait from dieing, and versatility in method. Especially for bass and pike, artificials are probably more effective since one can cover so much more water with them. Less time fishing an empty hole. I suggest starting by getting some tubes, 4 inch swimbaits with appropriate jigs, Ned rigs, and some Rapala DT crankbaits. No snap swivels, just small snaps or tie direct. Watch some videos for technique, sites like InFisherman.com and others.

Let us know how it goes. I'm sure it's going to be bullet-proof. About 10 years ago I had to cut off the butt 1 1/2 inches of a rod because it kept getting caught at my elbow when going tip up to down. I simply butted the new piece to the grip with no blank inside it and glued it with epoxy. It's still intact, and the rod has been used a lot. The ragged break of your situation will make it even stronger than a simple butting joint, and as mentioned before , Titebond III is very capable for this application.

I very seldom have had braid break in the middle of its length. Sometimes if this is happening, especially if you're seeing frayed braid, it could be that a tiptop or guide ring is cracked, damaging the line. Use a Q-tip to check-rotate it against the ring and if it's cracked, it will grab the Q-tip fuzz. This may indicate a deficiency in the leader material being used, if it seems to be happening often or at too low of load/tension. You might want to try FC designed for leaders, or FC fly tippet material. Some argue it's too expensive, but one doesn't use that much of it , and I believe it's tougher than FC designed to be main line.

It should be obvious where the break happened. It happened at the end of what you have left.

I don't wax my mandrels. I just keep the glue off them. I pre-drill rings to 5/16 and use 5/16 mandrels. Since most blanks are at least 3/8 diameter, there is no need to apply glue all the way to the mandrel since it will get reamed away anyway. Never had a failure.