MickD

That yellow-handled thing is about useless, IMHO, and I find the diamond dust devices so much more effective. But yes, hooks can be "repointed," and should be repointed to be so sharp that when pulled across the thumb nail, they dig rather than slide.

Some factory rods I've gotten into used cardboard as a shim between the seat and the blank. Lack of sufficient epoxy is high on the "failure list" too, as you say. And not just on cheap rods. One thing one can expect from buying a custom rod is that its structural integrity most likely will be bullet proof.

Got good, technical, data? I have a hard time believing that bass and pike can burst no faster than I can ride my bike.

I respectfully submit that the original post mentioned the line coming off the spool looking like a slinky when slack. If the line were not twisted, especially being 4 pound test, it would not come off in that manner. None of us can be certain, and it could be a combination of problems, but there is strong evidence to suggest twisted line.

I don't think anyone can reel faster than any fish can swim. Except maybe for big catfish or carp. I had a couple hybrid bluegills in my decorative pond and when they would feed they would come out from under the lily pads so fast they basically couldn't be seen. Just a flash and a splash. And predator fish can catch them. The initial runs of all the sport fish I've caught, I believe, are faster than anyone can reel. I've seen smallmouth bass "zooming" after tiny minnows, and they are just a streak across the water.

Flouro line and leader has a higher specific gravity than water, therefore it sinks and with some surface lures, it will adversely affect the action of the lure, tending to pull it under. On my surface outfits I only use mono, either as line or leader on braid main line. Braid and mono, except for Gore fiber braids, have about the same specific gravity as water and don't sink like flouro.

I don't know if all line labels are oriented the same way , or if all spin reels rotate the same way, so when I put line onto a spin reel I have it come off the end of the line spool counter clockwise if the reel rotates clockwise. Vice versa if the reel rotates oopposite. Because every rotation of the reel rotor puts one twist into the line. Having it come off opposite takes that twist out. A couple reservations. Some reels say you should just feed it on from a rotating spool because the reel has a design that prevents twist. I don't know if that is true, seems like it is contradictory to simple physics, but that's what's in some of my reels' instructions. Also, as the reel source spools are most often larger in diameter than the reel spool, I believe the process will not ensure zero twist, just less twist than feeding it from a rotating source spool. Regardless of what technique is used, dragging the line behind a boat for a few minutes will take any twist out. Excessive use of the drag will add twist since the rotor is not rotating. I don't see the fundamental reason why manual closing of the bail prevents twist more than letting the reel close it. I manually close it to minimize wear and tear on the bail mechanism and because it is smoother and quieter to do it that way. I would appreciate someone clarify what physics is at work that makes one way better than the other for line twist. I also don't see what there could be about your new reel that would make me suspect it is a problem. I believe the installation of the line was done wrong. You have some sort of line problem, not a reel problem. Since the line is only 4 pound test it should be limp enough to work well even if it's flourocarbon, but most likely it's mono. And should work fine if not twisted.

Agree with snaps. I've had trouble with loop knots not taking impact very well. Could be they mostly have been made with FC, probably less a problem with mono.

About once a week.

As the title says, . . . I cannot find much ammo, no primers or Hornady .224 V max bullets. Can anyone help?

This company is a great company, and probably can accomodate you without spending a fortune. Give them a call and discuss what you are trying to accomplish. Please tell them you were referred by a member of the Michigan Rodbuilders. I have a sticker I use on all my rods that they helped me with, and many other builders will endorse them as a quality company. https://decalconnection.com/

In addition to what A-Jay recommends, there is a little metallic green in there, probably kristal flash (fly tying flash material) , lime green or green?

Ghoti, how does your first rod compare to those you are building today? My current rods are much different from my first, in so many ways.

I always trim the weed guards. They are way too aggressive. It doesn't take much to deflect a weed.

Saginaw Bay and Lake St Clair, Rapala DT series, which one depends on depth, Strike King and Keitech swim baits in white, Strike King (3.5 in.) Coffee tubes, Ned rig. Best colors are green, green, and green (with red flake on the soft stuff except swim baits)

All that's required are years of study and experience that allow one to predict the outcome, to not do some of the stupid proposals one sees on forums, the knowledge of what guides to use, where to put them, where to put the reel seat, what materials will work and which will not, the ability to handle micro guides and get them wrapped solidly to the rod, the fitting of components, good epoxy technique, the concentric reaming of cork and other materials, selecting the right blank characteristics for the technique a person wants a rod for, keeping current on new processes and materials. Pretty simple.

Smallies have better grammar. Sounds like a largemouth. ?

It is my opinion that the difference between the whopper plopper and a buzz bait are minimal. Fish bite from instinct. I expect both of these lures and the old Jitterbug are all the same thing to the fish. But what do I know? I'm not a fish. I expect if one has not taken a smallie any of these lures it's because the lure wasn't used when fish were hitting surface and the fisherman didn't think the lure would work. So he did not try it.

With regard to pound test rating inaccuracy Hitena advertises that their pound test ratings are correct, for their lines and leader materials. I have not tested them, but based on their overall quality reputation I expect they are correct. or close.

I have found line counter reels very helpful in trolling for salmon, getting the lure into the effective zone repeatedly once it's determined. This is not down rigger trolling, but just trolling a diving lure. I would expect that for vertical jigging they would be very valuable.

One can never have too many rods. Sort of like purses and shoes with females. No offense intended.

Best braid I've used is Hitena Pureline. White. Keep in mind that lines like this are so thin that color is less a visibility problem than you might at first think. Pricey but lasts a long long time.

Yes his advice was on target, IMHO, but also you need to limit the wraps to about the 13 that you are finding works. As I stated before, more wraps will not tighten down reliably/properly. Even when tight when wrapped, they might loosen because they simply will not be effectively tightening and deforming the leader. If you want to see this effect take a finished knot apart carefully by cutting the braid off a finished knot with a razor blade.

Seems like everyone assumes that more weaves with the FG means more reliability, but it is not true. After about a dozen, they don't tighten down onto the leader. The FG was developed for leaders for salt that were heavy stuff, 40-50-70 pound test. And it is my opinion after doing a lot of work with it, that is where it excels. But not for leaders like most bass fishermen use of 8-15 pound test. They are too thin to deform properly. The knot depends on the weaves actually deforming the leader as they are tightly set, and too many weaves prevents this from happening. And lighter leaders bend but do not deform to interlock the braid as do heavier leaders. It is my opinion that for the leader strengths of less than about 20-25 one is better off using the "improved" Alberto. Tie the Alberto, set it very tightly (IMPORTANT) then tie two overhand knots of the braid tag over the main line. Set them tightly too. And you will have a very small knot that is very reliable.

I tie marabou and hair jigs without weed guards. I'm not a big fan of most weed guards anyway. I trim them back significantly from how most skirted jigs come. On the jigs I tie I use jigs without them. I think that adding them after the tie is the way to go if you need them. I don't see how to easily tie with them in place.