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FishTank

Super User

Everything posted by FishTank

  1. Yes. I believe so. It wasn't something I looked at when I took it apart. I will look for sure when I get a chance but here is a blow up of the schematic.
  2. I've been using Varivas Super Trout Advance PE 0.8. It's fantastic line if I take the time to manage it after each cast but I think it's almost too slick and thin. I thought with some use it would rough up a little but no such luck. It has stayed true to its form and shown no signs of wear.
  3. I got my Silver Wolf a few weeks ago and it's pretty amazing. I had a few issues out of the box though..... it wasn't smooth, almost grinding and geary. I was going to send it back to Digitaka but decided to take it apart instead. I found one bad spool bearing. The bearings were also dry. The AR bearing was soaked in grease and to top it off, there was a split ring stuck in some grease inside the frame. There were no signs that it had been used. I cleaned it, soaked the bearings and re-lubed it. It's perfect now. I just need to move on from the braid I put on it. It's been a disaster.
  4. It would be whatever you are comfortable with. For me it's a 7.x:1.
  5. Ya, I have yet to see a rod marked on the blank as BFS. Finnese, yes. My question on what you said.... How does a "progressive taper" differ from the normal labeling of Fast, X'fast, Moderate, etc. and how does that relate to BFS fishing? As it looks, there are three different relms of BFS fishing with no real definitive guidelines (despite our best efforts to define them)..... Saltwater, Stream/Trout, and Bass. The reels to are designed to work between the three but rods are a different story.
  6. Black with blue flake, green pumpkin and pretty much any roboworm color.
  7. From the bank .. 1/8th and 3/16th. Deeper water on a boat... 1/4 or even a 1/2.
  8. Never lock the drag all the way down. If you feel you have too, use your tumb instead. I hear it every year from a couple of people I work on their reels for.... "My reel is making noise and doesn't act like it use to. I didn't do anything. It just started acting up."... It usually ends up being the same thing. Fishing heavy cover, with braid and the drag locked down. I have seen spools bent and frames with micro cracks. So, yes locking the drag down can potentially harm your gear.
  9. I use split shots for wacky rigged worms. I just pinch it on when I need it just above the hook and remove it when I don't. I don't put it on too tight but just enough so it stays.
  10. Nope. Just marketing.
  11. Punching bait.. Beavers.
  12. I had to look it up... so what I was thinking of is the Bellows Stick.
  13. I wouldn't like the Madbull either for jerkbaits. It's too long and the grip is slick. Crankbaits, this rod would be great but it just didn't do it for me when I had it in hand when they came out. I picked up the St. Croix instead. Megabass, though, seems to design their rods differently, in that they don't seem to build them super specific. They seem to be built to fish whatever but some rods are better at certain techniques. To me this makes them more versatile than most. Another to take a look at is the Evoluzion Diablo and Diablo Spec L. The Diablo will do all of it.
  14. Nice setup. I have the 802C NRX+ and use it for everything you mentioned except crankbaits. For crankbaits, I have been using the following....a St. Croix Legend Glass M for most everything, a Loomis 903C IMX Pro CBR for square bills and chatterbaits, and St. Croix Legend Tournament 7'4'' power glass cranker for the bigger stuff. For jerkbaits, I would turn to Megabass. They have figured out on their jerkbait rods how design the tip perfectly for the that bait. From high end to low end, they are all good.
  15. I love GYCB but....If your in a hurry, Geecrack offers a bait that is almost identical. It can be hard to come by but it has been really good for me. The regular Senko is still my go to. I think it gets more bites than any worm I use. It could be a confidence thing though.
  16. I have the Steez SV and have thrown baits up to 1oz. It did fine but I wouldn't use this reel for swimbaits or magnum deep cranks. It has a little bit of flex to it. I think it shines at throwing baits in the 1/2oz range, especially T-rigged soft plastic. I also have the Super Destroyer. Great rod. About the only thing that I don't like to use on it, is jigs. It can fish them but not as well as other rods I have.
  17. I would pick up a dedicated crankbait rod or two. Something with a Moderate or Moderate-fast taper. Both Loomis and St. Croix have great choices. Maybe a jerkbait rod. The Conquest you have are great but I prefer a shorter length to work the bait.
  18. I played with a Shimano Zodias BFS rod this weekend (might have been a 7'2'' ML Mod Fast). In any case, I didn't care for it but it can handle what I would term "Bass BFS" and it's not even close to a "Trout BFS" rod (or as bulldog sort of put... a rod capable using a BFS reel). I was casting a 1/4oz Shad Rap. One of the harder baits to cast in my opinion and it did fine. I didn't like how the rod felt in hand though. It was sort of stiff and not in a good way. Casting with one hand seemed difficult. I ended up ordering a Megabass P5 Criffhanger instead.
  19. I have seen you post this reel a few times and I always wanted to ask.... How much of that reel is still a Lew's and how much of it is something else?
  20. Love topwater. I have been fishing the Baby Pop-Max on BFS gear and it has been a blast. The bait in the pic alone has caught almost 100 fish in just a few months. This guy was a fuzz over 3lbs and just destroyed it.
  21. Just couldn't resist. ?
  22. I have the new Zillion and the old Bantam and like both but the Zillion might be the best reel I have ever used. I have older Daiwas with the T-wing and no issues. I also have had no issues with the brake dial. So far this reel has been flawless in every way.

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