Brett's_daddy

So would something like you see at Wal-Mart...Eagle Claw 30lb steel leader 12" long be sufficient?

So for now since our season is rapidly coming to a close (first ice on the ponds/lakes could happen anytime now) if i wanted to just see if I could get a pike for fun I have some 20lb Seaguar Red Label fluorocarbon...could i use that as a leader to either my 50lb. braid or my 15lb fluoro?

I'm thinking nothing special, maybe some larger spoons and inline spinners.

Well, I have a 7'3" Dobyns Fury 734C which is technically a Heavy rod but fishes closer to a MH, I have a Shimano Curado 200i 7.1:1 on that spooled with 17lb. Sunline Armilo Defier line...would this work too?

Let's assume that I use a leader...say 130lb. fluorocarbon pre-made leader...on my heavy rod I have a Daiwa Tatula CT Type-R 8.1:1 spooled with 50lb. Sunline FX2 braid, would this setup be sufficient for pike?

Bait monkey has bit me the past couple of weeks also, last week was a Reaction Innovations Vixen in Clear Ice and this week started off with a River2Sea Rover 128 in Ghost Minnow. That's it, I'm done for this season as up here in the North the season ends November 30th. I may ask for some new lures and terminal tackle for Christmas but as far as actually purchasing new lures myself I'm done...until next Spring :).

I was just talking to a co-worker who just caught a decent 32" Northern Pike and asked him what he used and he said 30lb braid. I asked if he used a leader and he said he didn't. I have always been under the assumption that pike could saw right through braid so you would need a steel leader to catch them but he said he never has used a leader and always just straight braid and he's caught many pike. If I wanted to try and catch some pike would you chance using straight braid without a steel leader?

If it's stained/muddy water try this (provided you have a rod heavy enough to handle a 1.38oz. lure)...

I personally think color matters more than some...especially on baits where the fish will see the entire bait and not just the bottom like a topwater. That being said, there are too many different manufacturers who have their own subtle variation of a color to keep track of...a comprehensive list of every color variation from every manufacturer would look like a volume from the Encyclopedia Brittanica (please tell me there are people old enough to know what that is...lol). I stick with some variation of black w/blue flake, green pumpkin, watermelon w/red flake, natural (whatever the forage is) and white. I will occasionally throw in an oddball color just for something different as well as mix in some chartreuse for dirty water etc. but that's pretty much what seems to work for me...others mileage may vary!

I know this is pretty new but thought I'd ask if anyone has used these yet? A 12" worm is HUGE...is that too big? I have some Zoom Ol Monsters at 10" and those are big. I'm waffling between this Mag 12 worm and maybe a Strike King Rage Thumper 10".

Couldn't you use swimming pool "noodles" and do the same thing? Just cut them in half or thirds and slice down the middle length ways. I'll be these are on sale for little or nothing if you live up north where the swimming season is almost over.

The rod holders you're talking about are the velcro strap ones like in a boat? If so, why not take a couple of them and put them inside the car on the roof. It's fabric so the rod holders should stick then you could strap your rods up on the roof of the car but on the inside instead of the outside.

What is the consensus of people who have them? I know they come in different sizes and weights but I would be looking at the baits in the 1oz. - 1-1/2oz. range. Are they worth the $10?

If you h ave Whopper Ploppers would it be redundant to get t hese?

How about a Kastking Speed Demon? I have read where they are supposed to be very hard to backlash.

As the title states, I would like to find a good, solid casting reel for my 7 year old son to start out with. Obviously it doesn't have to be of the highest quality but something simple that is almost impossible to backlash once it's dialed in to the weight of a lure. He's a lefty too. Any suggestions?

Lighten up man!

Not necessarily bottom baits but I tend to fish them low in the water column but they are pretty versatile and can really be fished at just about any level.

This time of year I would start with topwater and more specifically a Whopper Plopper, buzzbait, spook, popper etc. Next would be shallow to mid level jerkbaits and crankbaits. This is also prime swimbait season so your glide baits and segmented swimbaits will work well. Last but certainly not least would be the bottom baits like your spinnerbaits, jigs, craws and senkos. Those are what I throw for the Fall.

Okay, that question may sound stupid but hear me out. I see people talk about "ripping" a bait all the time...usually in reference to a spinnerbait or a crankbait...but how exactly do you do that? I mean for instance a pond I fish often has a lot of weeds growing at various heights in the water column, sure i could let my bait sink or dive down into the weeds and use my rod to yank them out but with those hooks (trebles especially) catching on the weeds those baits will come out with some serious vegetation attached and resemble one of these... ...I would think a bait covered in weeds wouldn't attract too many fish. Is there a trick to ripping your bait without bringing about a pound or two of vegetation out with you?

Yeah, I stopped watching after he first said what the weights were...figured that left me out...lol. Those weights you listed aren't too bad...I could handle the 6.8" if it weighs 1.29oz. but the 7.8" at 1.92oz. is a little out of my comfort zone!

I just watched a YouTube unboxing video of the new BIG Keitech's and according to the video the 6.8" weighs in at 3oz. and the 7.8" weighs in at almost 5oz. Too big for any of my setups...lol.

Hmmm, I think that is the 65, the 45 is the small size and the King Daddy is the BIG 1oz. size.

Muddy/Dirty Water = Bright (think chartreuse), gives the bass something to hone in on. Clear Water = Light (think white, light blue, light green etc.) or Natural (perch, bluegill, shiners, shad etc.) as the bass can see much better and it should look as natural as possible. Dark/Overcast = Dark (think black, dark blue, dark green, brown) as the bass are better able to see a dark shape in these conditions than a lighter shade of color. I'm sure others more knowledgeable than I will chime in with better insight but this is what I was taught.

Do you use the Spro 65 size?