Bass Turd

Make supports like this. Really helped me keep water out when I had to store my boat outside. Mine were even taller.

50% off camo Costa Del Mar sunglasses at American Legacy http://www.americanlegacyfishing.com/holiday-promotions/super-savings.html?utm_source=ALFC+Newsletter&utm_campaign=2d2ee99b59-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2016_11_02&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_2400964bb9-2d2ee99b59-129706533&mc_cid=2d2ee99b59&mc_eid=7ed7275b77

The two reels have totally different braking systems if I remember correctly. The Lews is magnetic and the Shimano is centrifugal. The little brake tabs that you turn on and off actually drag against the drum. They have physical contact. Shimano recommends using their light oil on a q-tip and wiping it around the drum every once in a while to keep it smooth. You will know when it is dry as it gets pretty loud. Hope this helps.

Ha. Everyone know a rod won't fit in a saddle bag....

Has anyone tried the bus companies like Greyhound or Trailways? Heck... I don't even know if both of those companies are still in business but back in the old days one could ship with them.

You can order directly from Shimano. This will get you close. Just choose your model number. https://fishshop.shimano.com/vip/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=845524441848376&SKU<>sku_id=1689949372110110

I don't know the answer but I wouldn't use vegetable oil. It will turn rancid at some point.

Think of it this way. High speed reels 7.xx or 8.xx - For baits you work with your rod ie Texas rigged plastics, jigs etc... when you are ready to reel the bait back through the "dead water" you want to get it back as fast as you can so you can cast/pitch to the next target. It makes you more efficient which means you cast more times per day which theoretically means more fish. 5 speed reels- for deep cranking. Think of it like bicycle gears. You want to peddle easier up the hill. 5 speed reels allow you to do this. 6 speed reels- for moving baits and everything else Just my 2cents

Pay attention to the braid at the spool when you have to pull loose from a snag. My theory is the braid buries itself then when you cast to that point it can't get loose and sounds like a fire cracker. Also make sure you spool it on tight when you originally put it on your reel.

Goose52- I for one would love to hear more details of the tagging program. If you are so inclined... start it's own thread and update it each year. That would be fantastic information.

I'm late to the party but I would just tie a rope to it and throw it out in the water when you are fishing. Kind of like chumming. Keep a bucket for it on the boat or on shore to store it in when you move. Pretty soon it will come clean and you will have caught more fish! Think of the scent trail you are going to leave...

Check the local game and fish laws in Crustyville before moving fish... especially to a public lake.

How about cutting it off with wire cutters and filing down the leftover metal to the epoxy? That way you change the rod very little by keeping all the wraps the same.

Yep! That's what I found out too. Love the purple/blue. Flat black is nice too. I didn't like burning the paint or powder coat off. It didn't come off cleanly and has a rough texture. I'm a little worried about line wear.

I practiced with the tape trick and on top of a parking garage. I used the number of spaces I could cast as a guide. Security came up one day and asked me if I had caught anything yet.... I said yep... one idiot...

Yes... but the paint chips off if you drag it across rocks...

Everyone who switches from spinning to casting has this trouble at first. The release of your thumb needs to be much earlier. Trick your mind... try to cast straight up. Your cast will probably be perfect.

Anyone tried this?

Where?

http://www.another site.com/docktalk_article/16850/mlf-cameraman-injured-during-filming-(updated)#.WAuTR-ArKM9

It looks like they sell the butt systems. I'd love to hear some of our custom rod makers take on installing one. http://manleyfishing.com/mrf-system/

Forgot to mention.... The next step is to turn half your brakes on or your brakes half way on depending on what kind you have. After you cast a few times you can adjust your brakes more or less and or the spool tension more or less.

It is the round knob on the handle side of the reel inline with the center of the spool. You need to adjust it for every different lure you put on your line for a while. With the lure tied on and the rod held horizontal to the ground push the thumb bar and the lure should fall slowly to the ground. Adjust it so the spool does not continue to turn when the lure hits the ground. As you get better you will be able to cast with a looser spool tension but for now use this setup for each lure.

There were two tips that helped me tremendously when I first started with a casting reel. The first is to pull out a casts worth of line and then put some tape on the reel. If you backlash again it won't go any farther than the tape. I even fished with the tape for a while. As you cast to the tape just keep moving it further down the reel. The second tip was to identify when in the cast the backlash was happening. You said early. Early in the cast = spool tension. Middle of the cast = thumb. End of the cast = brakes. Good luck. Keep practicing. Before you know it it will be second nature.

The only thing I can think of is to tie a treble hook with a weight in front of it and cast to "snag" the fish. I don't know if there is a law in New Mexico that fish can only be caught in the mouth or not. Laws would have to be checked.