Way2slow

Does look nice. Back in the early 60's I bought a used 17' Grumman canoe and polished it like that, being a young teenager, proud of his new boat and not a lot of anything else to do. Several years later, when it was really needing it again, thinking about all that work it took, I painted it a flat, OD green, and it's still green.

For all direct injected two strokes, I would only run the manufactures brand and their recommend oil for the model year or size, be it full synthetic or synthetic blend. Because of EPA, modern engines have gotten very critical on tolerances and blends for optimum performance and lubrication. Even small differences in viscosity can change how the engine is lubricated. Which can be too much oil and cause excess carbon build up or less oil and cause excess wear. Yes, the have a give or take tolerance to allow for some variance, but their optimal is with their oil. For what outboards cost today, to buy one and run a cheap or off brand oil just doesn't make since. Especially when there is usually really little difference in cost of the manufactures brand and another similar quality in a different brand. Kinda like buying a high performance, gas hog for a vehicle, and then ***** because of the gas mileage and having to buy premium gas.

$350 worth of battery charged and maintained with a cheap charger might let you get $150 worth of use out of them. For run time, no AGM of similar size as a flooded cell give the run time a high quality flooded cell will give. For cycle life count, no flooded cell is going give what a high quality AGM will give if properly maintained with a good charger. Now, as Further North stated, where is the advantage point, most of the time, the cost of the AGM is almost twice what a good flooded cell, so it's cheaper in the long run to run the flooded cells. However, with either one, if you don't use a quality charger, you just need to go down to Wal-Mart and buy theirs.

The one in the bag looks like the grounding strap used between the power head and mid section or transom mount. Don't have a clue what the metal tab goes.

There are a few different version of the switch, so if you order a new one, make sure you get the right one. I just had to buy a new one for mine. The flat wouldn't hold it and it kept wanting to turn all the way around and I broke the threaded section off, over tightening the nut holding it in. About $35 bucks for that dumb move.

Yes, the CDI system provides all ignition voltage and runs the motors. The cranking battery is providing power to the starter to spin it. There timer base generates the initial ignition voltage for each cylinder as the flywheel spins and sends that to the power pack. The power back amplifies that voltage to approx. 275 peak volts and sends that to the coil, The coil increases it again to fire the plug. The ignition switch is doing nothing but ground out two wires from the power so it can't provide and ignition voltage to the coil. If something happens that you can't ground those two wires, you can't turn the motor off without pulling plug wires or choking it down or cutting the gas off to it. The accessory side of the ignition switch is only rated for about 7 amps so normally, nothing is hooked to it other than the gauges. If there's anything else being power off the key switch, I would take it off and run it through the power switch on the boat.

From past experience of using basic utility trailers, you will have to greatly extend the tongue. That's easy enough to do just by buying a stick of steel like it, drilling the holes, a spray can of red paint and a little work since there is no welding required on that one. A whole stick of steel is going to be 20-22 feet long but most places charge almost as much for a drop (a length cut off a whole stick) that it's about as cheap to go ahead and buy the whole stick. Plus, a lot of places have quit selling drops. Some welding and fab shops may have a piece about the size you need. If you don't extend the tongue and get the wheels closer to the rear of the boat, if it does go on it, it may bend the hull with as much sticking out the back as you will have. One other thing I thought about, if you are not planning on adding bunks, rollers and winch, make sure that distance between the fenders is enough for the bottom to clear them.

If that's an aluminum jon, depending on the size motor it would probably work, but if you have more than a 25-30 hp motor, you will probably exceed your 600 pounds very easily if there is much on/in the boat.

I haven't followed up from their initial plans for the two stroke band. I know BRP and Mercury were fighting them hard because their DFI motors were well within the EPA guidelines. The tree huggers had them Initially banning all two strokes on land and water. There are still a bunch of lakes that don't allow them, and most water sheds don't allow them

I'm guessing you empty it each time you are finished or you are going to end up with some pretty nasty water. That oil you see is why the national park service has banned two stroke engines and a lot of small lakes won't let you use them. As for hurting the engine, won't bother it. Probably just gives it a little oil it would never see otherwise.

You can tell Catt is proud of that motor. Done made him a nice mount to show it off on the deck even. All that's left to do now is get it running I have a 1.5 Johnson that looks about like that I bought used back in the 60's for my canoe, I just need to find a carb for it. It will run but carb on it is pretty well wasted.

I thought the 88 Tracker was aluminum? If it is, what size boat is it to have a 150 on it? Sounds like it might be over weighted and over powered for the transom. If aluminum, it can be welded, but it most likely has a plywood reinforcement that needs to be replaced. To do that will most likely require some cutting a welding. If it is a glass boat, it can cost $500 in materials if you think you have the skills and tools and several thousand to pay someone to do it right. However, that does not account for any hidden work that will probably be required. Needless to say, totally not worth paying someone to repair it.

I have the HDS-5 mounted in the console, a HDS-10 on a ball mount sitting beside the console and an HDS-7 on the bow. The bow was running off the transducer in the TM until I took the Terrova off and put my MG back on, now it's on one mounted on the bottom of the MG. The HDS-5 and 10 have their own transducers, plus I have the structure scan, so the back of my boat looks like somebody went crazy mounting transducers. These are all networked together so I can see what's on anyone of them from any position. As others mentioned, I want to see what's under me, not what was under 20ft later.

You would think since there's nothing about one I can't fix, I would have a good supply of tools and spare parts. Just the opposite, I keep a pair of channel locks to change the prop and a spare prop, some electrical tape and tie wraps, some extra sparks plugs and something to change those, plus a jack and something to change a trailer tire. There are always a couple of Leatherman Multi-tools in the boat, and that's pretty much my tool kit. I learned a long time ago, most everything will give you a few warnings before they break. If you heed those warnings and go ahead ahead and fix the problems initially, and do regular inspections you usually don't get in a bad situation. For those rare breakdowns that come without a warning, it's normally something that's you would not be able to fix on the spot anyway, so all the tools in the world are not going to do any good. I'm a firm believer in preventive maintenance, replace fuel lines every few years, keep dielectric grease in all connectors, look for loose, worn or missing parts. You would be surprised how many times you can spot a potential problem before it becomes one just by doing regular inspections. I don't even keep jumper cables in my boat because using them can blow your charging and ignition system.

I would think that boat would run in the lower to mid 70's with ease if the setup was right. Triton's are pretty quick boats. I have wiped what I call that "Triton" grin/smirk off a number of drivers running in the low 70's that passed me when I was just cruising. It's just my old ragged looking Javelin runs in the low 80's with two people and gear. Oh! By the way, that old ragged Javelin is running 327hp at 6200 rpm on a blue printed hull and a proper setup. The thing about it is, first you have to make sure everything about the boat is good. There can be absolutely no play in the steering and it has good, stiff motor mounts. If that motor is able to wiggle any on it's own, keeping it from chine walking can be next to impossible. If everything is good to go, you still have to learn to drive a chine walker and don't ever think for a second you can drive through it. It's all about keeping the boat balanced on the pad and keeping one step ahead of it with minute steering corrections. Once you get that part accomplished, then it a matter of how much money and time you want to spend getting the setup right. Not may props are going to come out of the box giving you peak performance and even then, you may have to try several different ones to find one that even comes close. Each time you are trying one, you will probably have to play with engine height, so if you have a hydraulic jack plate, that will make life a whole lot simpler, because manually doing it is trial and error and time consuming.

Going by your location, I going to assume you don't have a metal ice scraper used on the driveway and sidewalks. With the floor out, I use one of those sharpened on the edge and a shovel. Just be careful when you start putting the foam back in. You only have a few seconds working time, and It don't take much because it expands a huge amount. It will bust the hull and/or the floor loose if it put too much and it doesn't have enough room to expand, because it's going to make room if there's not enough.

What you describe for steering sounds like something I haven't seen so can't tell you anything about it. The Teleflex rack and pinion system is the much more common. Yes, there are complete systems you can get to replace it. Might even be a good time to look into upgrading to hydraulic steering. To lift the motor, you use a lifting ring bolted on top of the flywheel. I just make my own with a large eyebolt and steel plate drilled to match the three holes in the flywheel. Don't use too long of bolts to bolt it on or you can screw them into the stator, that would ruin your day. I was thinking (that gets dangerous) if that's an open cable systems, which sounds like what you are describing, you may have an issue with the transom mount on the motor, or a helm that's needs some attention. I ran an open cable system on my race boat back in the 70's and there was nothing that could bind it up like the enclosed cable systems. I would disconnect it from the motor and make sure the motor pivots freely first, just be sure to use bungee cords or something to keep tension on them so they don't unspool or get out of whack on that drum unit. That could be like getting a backlash out of a baitcaster is that happens. The helm being tight or some of the rollers would be my next check. Now, if those cables go into an outer housing, then it's probably they are rusted and binding inside the outer housing and need replacing.

Outboard Marine Corp (OMC) made Johnsons and Evinrudes until going belly up in 2000. The constant hassles of dealing with those like you that think they know and don't is why I've almost quite posting on here. ya'll have fun.

If that's an OMC I would suggest you get a new gauge. I was not suggesting it was even near 130

River basser, NO WAY would that m ever show those kind of numbers in stock configuration. 135psi is about the max you can run on fresh, 87 octane gas. 125-128 is about the max I've seen on a stock carbureted motor and that's on the 225HO. I only run 155 psi on my 325hp modified motor on 93 octane and will still pop a piston if I get some bad gas at the pump. As for a max number, that's hard to tell because of other variables, the main thing is the difference between the highest and lowest cylinder should be no more than 5% on a good motor, and that should be after being about 15 minutes to warm it up. Cold motors lie bigtime on compression numbers. Dev, I hate to say this, but sounds like you took it to the wrong expert. 95 is not good on that one, and I hope it was not #2 or #4 cylinder that was low. take it to the lake and do a plug dump and see how the plugs look. Run at WOT for about 5 minutes down the lake and shut the ignition off while still holding it wot. Then pull the plugs. None should be no darker than a brown paper bag.

Classic symptom of being down on one cylinder. Also a classic example of why I say it's dumber than dirt to buy one without testing it or having it checked by a qualified mechanic.

Just like ice cream, not everybody likes the same flavor. That's why I strongly encourage people that ask me which gun would I buy, I tell them to try start visiting guns stores and handle everyone they can put their hands on. Then find one of the indoor ranges that rents guns and shoot the ones you think you like. That saves a lot of that second guessing when you pickup one different than the one you bought. Before I bought my Glock 20, I probably shot 15 different pistols in 9mm, 10mm (40S&W and 10mm) and 45acp before deciding the Glock 20 was the one I wanted. However, I also have a fairly large hand, it takes a 2X glove to fit and I wear a size 15 ring, so that big, fat grip actually feels pretty good in my hand, but would not recommend it for people with small hands. Yet, my granddaughters hand is probably half the size of mine and she shot the h**l out of it and loved the way it felt. However, it have also installed a 3 1/2 pound trigger and after market sights, and she really liked that. I bought the Glock, but I still think the 1911 is the most iconic hand gun made and keep saying one day I'm going to buy one, just for it's looks.

That's what they call my granddaughter at the little range we go to, but she's been shooting since was about six. With her custom 260 I built for her, she won't miss a 6" steel disc at 500 yards, shooting from a bench of course. We were shooting clay targets the other day with her 20 gauge and I took my Glock 20 just to shoot a few rounds with it. She had never shot mine but was very good with her 40 S&W and Ruger MarkIII target pistols. She propped up 10 clay targets at about 50 yards and busted nine of them with the 14 rounds in the magazine. This is a 19 year old, 5'2" girl shooting a 10mm with 180 grain reloads @ 1280 fps, basically a hand cannon. I know she is good, because I taught her, but that one even surprised me. I didn't tell her this but I don't think I could have done that good with it.

shaggydog, just want you to know, I've never considered myself a snob and don't really appreciate being called one. To keep from getting to ugly, I'll just leave it at that.

It sounds like it's still in good enough condition that you would wet sand it, starting with 1,200 and working up to 1,600 or 2,000 and then buffing it out with a mild compound. Then put a glaze on it. Looks brand new again. There are also a few products that have shown up on the market in a past couple of years that claim they will strip the dead finish off and leaving it looking new again, but I haven't tried any of them so can't verify or deny their claims. I will be a hellavalot less work if you found one that does what it claims because you are going to turn both arms to jelly buy the time you are done going the wet sanding method.