HPBB

really not going to help you at all. first if you read all the way down you can see it sayes " not for batteries bigger than 30ah. that is a small battery, most deep cycles are way more that that 80+ AH . also it doesn't charge fast enough to notice anything if you battery goes low. It would have to stay on the battery for a long long time, days week maybe to help. We use solor chargers on my families pontoon boats, but they sit on the docks from may till oct. and the solor chargers are solor mats about 12 inches by 30 inches. we only use the boats every other weekend so they help to maintain the batteries since we do not have power on our docks, they help, but still don't charge fully. also you don't notice anything when running.

I don't know if its true, but what I have seen the chrysler and older force/chrysler motor do not have the power. An older gentelman that goes to the same camp I do in Canada has a late 80's quantum bass boat, 16 footer with a 75hp force/chrysler, the best speed he could get was about 26-27mph. it would run right at the rpm's it should. just couldn't get any speed out of it and with 2 or more guys in it, it was a dead dog. I hav a 17'6' sea nymph with a 1989 75hp suzuki and I run about 37-38mph on GPS, even with 2-3 guys on it I still run around 37mph. My boat is bigger and heavier and I would still out run him badly. well last year he finaly got rid of that motor. it was costing him to much, it seemed like it needed a few hundred bucks of work every year. He ended up getting a early 90's Merc 60hp. Now it pushed his boat to low 30's on Gps and a few guys don't hurt it that much. what is the max Hp for your boat? if you get a new motor try to get on as close to the max as you can afford. Motors from the mid 80's on will do, just make sure that its in good running codition even a newer motor can have problems. I would stay away from any more chrysler or force motors. That 85 will work good. is it a Omc? If so its a V4, yes its heavy, but they still made that syle motor untill a few years ago and they are great motors. My grandfather has a 90 hp Omc v4 on his pontoon. If you look at a 75-90hp Merc or Suzuki, yam they will be 3 cylinders not 4 and weigh less.

done it. its will be ok. just make sure you solder and make sure you seal it water tight.

thanks for all the info. its not a cotton blend. so i will try the cleaning this spring. Its a bit cold here now ( 21 degree) right now. so washing is out of the question right now. the boat is outside, but is covered by another cover right now for winter. My winter tarp doesn't let any water in. Its just way to heavy to use all year. I am a truck driver and used to run steel. have you ever seen a steel tarp? They are very thick and heavy, 14 x 20 tarp is over 75 pounds. This spring when I get it ready I will wash it first and see if it works. I bet it will work cause it is dirty.

I have 3 flippinsticks and my favorate is a saint croix that is 7'10". I know that they make a 8 footer too. I like it. however in tight overhanging cover the 7'10" can be a problem. However in storage the 7'10" is the easiest to fit in my rod locker. I have a 7', 7'6" & 7'10" in the 7'6" & 7'10' the blank slide into the butt of the rod for storage. The 7 footer doesn't after all is said and done the 7'10" is shorter than both others when closed. I like the longer rod, next one I get will be a 8 footer

In some tournaments you can't contact your boater, they draw the morning of the tournament. that makes it hard. I mainly go as a boater, but sometimes I do go as a rider. I try to pack my "goto Lures" the lures know I am good with. Also know what water you are going to fish is a good thing. Like up here we fish rivers and lakes, I know when I fish Lake I carry different stuff than river fishing. For example. If I am fishing a lake that has lots of laydown, weed beds. I will pack my flippinstick, however if I am going up to Lake Erie, the FS stays home How often do I change lure? Well, that depends on the fish. there are day I use just one rod and one lure, but sometime the fish say no to your lure and it takes time to figure out what they want. Let say your using a crank bait and they are just bumping it and not eating it. I know they are on this spot. so then I will change the size and color till I start catching them. Maybe 15-20 cast before I change or work the area with each lure. Lets also say I the fish are shallow so I am using a shallow diver, then the fish stop, but I know they are still there. I will change to a deeper diver, maybe even a deeper than that. if I hit them for a while and they stop. I'll try deeper and the shallower. till I find them. Also lets say I am flipping trees with a 4 inch tube and I am catching 2-2 1/2 pound fish. I get a limit and still catch the same size fish. I need bigger. so I will try another type of lure (Jig and pig) and see if I start catching bigger fish, if that doesn't work I may switch to a brush hog, or sweet beaver. Or maybe change everything and use a spinnerbaits. Some days I may not change any, sometime change often let the fish tell you what they want

Hi. I have a really nice boat covers on my boats, both are 9 years old, and water proof. They have been great and never let any water in. I had them custom built and travel with them. Boats also sit outside 24/7/365. I just noticed that the cover on my bigger boat, a 17'6" V hull, is staring to let water in. It still looks great, and I am not ready to spend $400+ on a new cover. Is there anything I can put on the cover to help re-waterpfoof it? I thought about the spray cans of 3M stuff, but that would take a lot of cans and cost $$, and not sure it would work since its water resistant. I thought about Thompson's water proof that you used for wood, cement, ect. I used it on an old canvass tent years ago and it worked OK. Just not sure if it will help or hurt my cover. Any suggestion would help. Here is a picture of the boat with the cover

I would go for a 9.9 at least or a 15 with 9.9 stickers. The 5 I would leave where it is at. That being said buy the best motor for you. are the lakes you plan on fishing HP limited? if not buy the biggest OB your boat and wallet can handle. Just cause you have more power dosen't mean you have to use it, buts it nice. If you get the 5hp you will be happy at first, cause your on the water, but soon you will want to run father, and faster and wish you had gotten a bigger motor. I run a 15HP merc ( with 9.9 stickers) on a 14 foot V hull, with 2 tm's 2 batteries and 6 gal of gas. It will push the boat about 15mph with me in the boat, 2 guys around 12mph. my 6 in that same boat pushes it a 5mph with me. I have the 15 (9.9) because of Hp limits on local lakes, but some have been raised to 20hp, so I plan on getting a 25-35hp ( then put 20 stickers on it) . The boat has a hp limit of 35 "A used 10 hp it's that much more than a used 5. And like wise a used 15 isn't much more than a used 10." :-? I don't get that. If that is the truth a 15 isn't much more than a 5. I beg to differ I have a used 15 and a used 6 and the 15 is way, way faster than the 6. In fact my fiends 9.9 is way faster than the 6

The 1000 Islands are still good for Sm. I fish up in that area on the Ridue system in Ontario. However if you want a great SM trip. Lake Erie is #1. either the eastern basin by Buffalo, or around Presque Isle Pa (Erie Pa). If big water is not your favorite try Presque Isle Bay around may.

1500lbs is a light rig and I would say that yours is well under 1500lbs. my smaller boat is a starcraft 14SS. It is a 14 footer (14'10" to be exact) V hull with full floors and decks, with a 15 merc, bow and transom tm's, 2 batteries, 6 gal gas, and gear. with the trailer I am still under 1000lbs. Both trucks you stated will do ok with the boat. However if you plan on towing alot I would go with the V6. It will work so much easier than the 4. and as said before, when towing the bigger motor will ussially get better mpg. Look at this example. I pull a Sea Nymph gls 175 ( 17'6" deep V) with all the gear and full of gas she is a heavy boat. My dad pulls a Alumacraft throfy 17(deep V 17') his boat is 6 inches smaller and weighs about 500lbs less, I carry a lot of gear and have a bigger trailer. He tows his with a Chevy S-10 with a 4.3L V6 190HP auto. I pull with a Chevy Tahoe 5.3L V8 300hp Auto. On our yearly trip to canada about 2000 Miles round trip. He ave 12 mpg, I get 16-17mpg. the big thing is how hard the smaller motor is working , at 70mph I am turning 1800-1900rpm's, he is turning 3500rpm's. a 6 works harder than a 8 , just as a 4 will work harder than a 6. they all can get the job done, but some work harder doing it. If you plan on towing alot, or plan on getting a bigger boat in the future. I would go for the V6

That sound slike to much power. you should install a fuse box or in line fuses. This should help. or bigger gauge wires will handle more amps I let you know my experiance. it was on a truck woth driving lights. It had 55watt bulbs in it. they burned out and I found 100 watt balbs for the same price as the 55. so I thought what the heck, brighter lights. well after about an hour of running them the wires started smokeing and had to rip the power line off to stop them. I was pulling to many amps.

You know you will meet jerks in any sport. In my club we are very competitive, but we don't put people down. Yes, we tease, but to put people down. no that's bad. I have met many of these guys who feel they have to put people down. more than most of the time these guys can't fish all that good and they try to punk someone out, and it seems they work some times. I don't have a bass boat per say. I have a walleye boat (a deep V, sea nymph GLS 175 (17'6") with a 75hp on it). some guys will say "I do not want to be in that boat" most do not, also when they see I have a 36 volt tm and 2 color DF/GPS, their song changes, cause they don't have that kind of gear on their boat. Infact most say they have had a boat like mine and wish they would have never gotten rid of it. They guys that put my boat down at the begging of the day, usually change their mind at the end of they day. Also these a*#holes are not just in Bass tournaments. Last year I was fishing a club tournament in Ohio and there was a crappie tournament there too. I was fishing this point at the mouth of a creek. The crappie tournament was coming out of the creek. I only was about 25 feet from shore and there was about 100 yards behind me of open water. I was in a no wake area, these guys saw me casting to the point. most ran behind me, not all about 4 ran between me and the shore. I yelled "what are you doing, can't you see I am fishing this point?" well, 2 of the boat told me I was #1. Luckily the tournament director of the crappie tournament saw what was happening. He told me he heard me yelling and saw what the boats did. He then told me that the 2 boats that just ran between me and the shore would be penalized 1/2 a limit and the 2 that signed #1 would be disqualified he then ran out in the lake and pulled both off the water. I told him he didn't have to disqualify them. he told me that they do not tolerate unsportmanship and these guys would be banned from the tournament trail

if you get brakes on both axles, you have more braking power which is a good thing. and a dual just ride so much better, My uncle has a 21 foot open bow on a single axle and its a horror to tow. beats you and your truck up and hard to stop.

I have never been in the 175. I did fish out of the big one. The HP200 with a 200hp on it and it was a great boat. really changed my mind on big alum bass boats VS fiberglass. When I get a new boat they will be on my list.

I don't think you will have any problems. Friends of mine use their Checy van, forget the name, but same as yours. to tow their boat to cananda twice a year, 2000 mile round trip, and have no problems. that is with 6 people in it and a 17 foot procraft with a 115hp. He used a S-10 pick up the rest of the rime, but needs the room for the kids on the trip. so the van goes and have no problems. The trans cooler is a good thought. heat is the problem with any auto trans and a add on cooler, helps.

on the TM make sure its not on "High Bypass"

a guy in my club has this problem. when you boat is tight to the winch is the boat still resting on the bunks? his doesn't sit on the front of them. If that is your problem you need to lift these bunks so the boat is resting on them when the winch is tight. the bunks should get all the boat weight not the winch.

Its probbaly because you have gotten board with them. I to do not use them as much as I used do, but when they are hot I will throw one all day. I did this with other lures before I started tournament fishing. I used to fish torpedos amlost everytime out, not only when its prime, also crank baits , there was a time that is all I would throw. eveybody just goes through a phase. they still are one of my goto baits, a tube is still #1

I would say, got to a store like BPS, Cabela's etc. that has a bunch of units set up and check them out side by side. go in with an open mind. set a price and say "I'm going to buy the best for me" not a set brand one that will work for you. by that I mean is at your price (not the cheapest) one that is easy for you to use and understand (one company might be easier for you to understand than the other) and one that will do what you need. I will say look at color, once you try it you will not want to go back. all the companies make great unit and most are priced similar. Example. A few years ago I was in the market for a new DF/GPS. I knew I wanted color and knew my price limit. I was set on a lowrance 337c or 332c I read everything I could and checked out the web. I knew there were some others brands that where almost the same, but like I said I was set on lowrance. well i went to Cabela's to look at the units all next to each other (I also did this when buying my new TM and would also recommend it) looked at all the units and played with them for about 2-3 hours. when all was said and done i ended up with a Humminbird Matrix 87c. the matrix 87c was all most the same as the 332c and the same price, but the Humminbird was easier for me to use, also i liked how the color screen looked (now read this close) when i was wearing my polarized sun glasses. just go and check them out

yes I trust them. You said the magic phrase "he is a little careless with his batteries" that is an understatment first off is the trickle charger 30 min before leaving. he should be charging the battery as SOON as he gets back. I realy don't care what battery charger you have trying to charge a battery 30 min before a trip. :-?That's smart My batteries are always on the charger , 24/7/365 x 2 boats, when I am not out and my batteries are always ready to go. get an on board and let it do its job. I have a Pro mairniner 3x20 and a XPS 5/5/5 charger, yes they are both made by pro mairiner, I trust both of them 100%

you may get people saying "you don't need color or GPS". well, those people haven't tried it. like said. once you try you will never want to go back. Color is the way to go. I run 2 Humminbird's Matrix 87c and a 787c both color & gps and would not trade either. they are great check out the 787c2I, it has the internal GPS so no puck anttena, and you can get upgraded mapping cards. also I haven't yet, but you can get a interlink from humminbird and it will hook both units up to each other so the share everything.

i think we are getting allitle confused here. soory my diagram isn't very good, but here goes. I + Going to Trolling motor 36 volt - I I I I I I I I I I 12 volt I I system I I + -I I I I I I I I I I I I I I __jumper__ __jumper___ I + - + - + - battery 3 Battery 2 battery 1 This is the way I wire it and its the same as the diagram that came with my Motor guide 36 volt TM all the grounds are common so every ground runs to the same neg term on battery 1. its the pos wire that make the difference for what sysytem is 12, 24 or 36 volt. infact you can run all 3 sysytem from this set up. all you need is to run a pos wire from the pos term on battery 2 and that would be the 24volt side of the sysytem. This is how I run my sysytems. the 36volt side runs the TM and the 12volt side runs everything else. I do have a starting battery that only runs the outboard, but you could get rid of it and use the 12 volt side for starting. I have used the 12 volt side for starting before when my starting battery died. it will work fine

I think this question came up last year. Both of my boats sit outside in the Pittsburgh winter weather, batteries are always plugged in and never have had any problems

Team_Dougherty I have a question. I run a 36 volt set up and I have a dissagreement with your diagram we might both be getting the same output, but I have them wired different I use my 36 volt set up to run the TM and the 12volt side to run all the assesories, however the battery that you showed as the 12 volt would be the 24 volt. and your ground would not be common. all grounds are common so you can run a ground from a 36-24- or 12 volt side with no problem its the pos wire where the difference is in your picture there are 3 batteries from left to right battery 3, battery 2, and battery1. battery one is the common ground which all grounds would be conected. the pos side of battery 1 would be your 12 volt source, the pos side of battery 2 would be you 24 volt source and pos side of battery 3 would be the 36 volt source if you are to run the neg wire from the outboard to the neg side of battery one ( common ground) and the pos wire to the pos side of battery one then you will have 12 volt and it will work just fine

this is what I had to do to get organized