HPBB

that chager you showed should work ok. I use a Promariner Pro sport 20 on mine. I run a 36 volt Motor guide. You will love that motor on your boat. I can't stand using other ones now. if you really don't want to spend the $$ on a onboard 3 bank chager and get away with one 12 volt portable chager. you can dissconect the jumper cables and charge the one by one. however this may take 3 nights or so. if you need to charge overnight this may be a problem. I would get the onboard 3 bank and just hook them up and forget it. also don't forget to charge your staring battery.

I would mount it just right of the light plug, but I would get a RAM mount, well worth the $30-$40 and it make seeing the DF alot easier.

Sea nymph boats have been around since the 60's maybe the 50's. they where an independant co untill lowe bought them out in the early/mid 90's ( I think 93-94) they are very popular in the midwest and great lakes region. south of the masion dixion line I don't see many. I know here in Pa I can see Sea Nymph's on almost every body of water I fish. They are more known for their Deep V and V hulls, but I do see many of their bass boats running around. They are very well built, maybe over built. If I was to rank they in quality I would put them in the upper middle of alum boats. Not quite a Lund, but nowhere near a tracker of the same area. No they are not around anymore. after lowe bought them they just turned in to a line of V hull boats. I have fished out a a few of their V hulls, but never a bass style. the V hulls are all very stable and good running boats I have a GLS( great Lake special) 175, not a bass style, but a deep V. Its a 1988 and is still rock solid. she has out lived a trailer and an outboard. floors still solid and transom rock hard. they boat you are looking at, looks to be from before Lowe bought them. and that is good. In my opion the quality was better, before the buyout. that being said the older boats use alot of wood, so floors and decks might need changed. but because of how they where made it is very easy to chnage the floors or decks. you will find sea nymph with every kind of motor and trailer out there. they were not sold in "packages" the dealer just rigged them with what ever they sold. so you can find several boat from the same year all with different motors on them and trailers under them. Like I said they are well built. Mine is a 1988 and I bought it in 1995 when it was 8. Now I have had it for 13 years, averaging 100 trips a year, and she may have some scars, but scars are cool. but she is still a solid boat. and I don't see me getting rid of her anytime soon.

leave it under. that will make it easier to get off the trailer both of my boats and most I have seen all sit under the roller jhoffman, look at more trailers most are under the roller. if the eye hook sit over the roller it may hook up when launching and make it hard to get off, plus you don't want the winch stand holding the weight of the boat up. the weight of the boat should be on the bunks and the boat should just be resting against the bow roller try raising the rear of the bunks so that the nose sits down. you say you can lower them any more and that is problally your problem, they are to low, well in the back. just raise the rear of the bunks 2 inches or so and that should change the angle of the boat and make it sit better on the roller

check out http://www.smalloutboards.com/ they have some nice soutboards. they have a newer merc 9.9 tiller for $850. I have that same motor and its a great motor

looks good to me. here is a hint on saving some $$, this is what I did. get a quick release for your TM on you FS and you can just switch it from boat to boat. I used to do this with my TM and DF from my big boat to my small boat. when I ended up upgrading the TM and DF on the big boat the small boat got its own stuff

yes I do fish them for Sm and they work great. on little trick I do is when fishing rivers, cast the buzzbait onto shore, just at the water line, then pull it into the water and start running it. most of the time they will crush it as soon as it hits the water at the waters edge.

they are pushing them because they are cheeper and keep the cost down on the boat package, and for most people the cheeper it is the better. not saying the 2 strokes are bad. Yes they are not on their web site. Why? don't know. I have a 2008 booklet from a dealer, and a 2008 guide in BWB mag, and they still sell & make 2 strokle, only 3 models, 50hp, 90hp, & 150hp. The 2 strokes are lighter and easy to run, they do not get the milage of the opti or four stokes. if your looking for the most bang for your buck, don't run that much ( so the mileage will not effect you) and your waters are not restricted to 2 strokes, and want to keep the weight down. then the 2 strokes might be right for you. I am looking to repower my boat, and $$$ is always a issue. I was looking into the 90hp, which was my max hp, well I was able to get the max hp change by the state to 115 so I will be looking for a 115hp now. if you plan on keeping the boat along time, and use it alot then you will make back that $2000 in fuel savings. atleast in the 90-150 models. at the 50hp. I think I would still go for the 2 stroke. I have two buddies that bought 18 footers at the same time, one has a 150 opti and the other a 150 2 stroke and the opti get way better milage added this after reading past post: the 2 strokes he is talking about are old style efi and carb. I know the 150 is efi, and the 90, 50 are carb. the main thing is price. here is what is stated in my booklet. Its all about up front cost. and for alot of people, that is all they look at. If I have the $$ for a new motor it would be a DFI (optimax), but when money is tight the lower price and lighter (old style) 2 strokes may look good for many people 50hp 2 stroke oil injescted (carb) 50 hp 4 stroke weight 204lbs 248lbs cylinders 3 4 base price $4,800 $6,400 90HP 2 stroke 90HP optimax 90HP 4 stroke oil injected (carb) 2 stroke dfi weight 305 360 399 cylinders 3 3 4 base price $6,795 $8,320 $8,680 150HP 2 stroke 150HP optimax 150hp 4stroke efi oil injected 2 stroke dfi Verado weight 407 431 510 cylinders V6 V6 4 base price $10,050 $11,610 $12,650

sorry jhoffman, It always better to buy the biggest you can afford. it way better to have more power than not enough. and alot of time 1 on a 30 or 50 is still about the same power it in the higher power setting where the bigger power is felt. Put it this way. when I bought my 17'6' boat it had a #36 on it. I put a #55 on it and then moved all the way up to a 36 volt 109# and I would not have it anyother way. I may not use the all 109 pounds of thrust but its always nice to have it

get a color unit, you will not be dissapointed.

depends on what the bumpers tow rating is, but I would get a hitch instald. I mean my Tahoe's bumper has a tow rating of 5,000lbs, but I would never use it. always like a hitch better. also if you turn sharp with a bumper hitch you may bend the trailer ( which I have done) or hurt the bumper, where a hitch and tow bar will let you 90degree the trailer with ease.

with tha 4.0L you should have no problem, now if it was a 3.0L then you might have a problem. If its a auto do not tow in Overdrive

I use a 3 1/2 inche BPS tender tube in mellon Pepper (#13) with a 1/8 to 3/8 oz jig head, depending on how deep and how windy it is. if its weedy or alot of wood I will use same tube T-rigged with a 3/0 lite wire Gamy hook and 1/16 to 1/4 oz weight Up on Erie its 4 inch BPS Flippin tubes (same color) with 3/8oz jig heads with 4/0 or 5/0 hooks

just watch when you flip that thing upside down to put on your roof. make sure the decks do not fall out as your driving.

I fill them up and as soon as a fish goes in the recirc pump gos on and stays on all day.I do not use a timer. I flush the old water out and new water in ever hour or two or after each run. I have been doing this for the past 34 years and I have not lost anyfish. even on lake erie where fish have a hard time in livewells.

go straight 24 volt. I do think anyone make a 12/24 anymore. and get as big as you can afford. its always better to have to much power instead of not enuff. I would say something around a 70 will do, but if you can afford a 80 or so then get it. I would suggest Motor Guide Tour Series Digital. they are abit more $$, but well worth it. I have a 109# 36volt, on a 17'6" boat ( see more power always good) and it is the best TM I have ever used. 3 year so far and not one problem.

sounds like a short somewhere. If you have cahnged the trailer then the truck is next. make sure your ground is hooked up. bit sounds like something on your truck might be shorted.

here is a alittle advice. when you find a carpet that you like. Take a lure with trebel hooks. drop it on to the carpet. If the hooks get stuck in it do not get it, you will be ripping it up evevry time you drop a lure. BPS and cabela's have ggod carpet. BPS even has a kit that comes with carpet, glue, patterns, and knife

This is for the PA guys, check your states Boat commision they may have the same form. I know there has been alot of questions on HP max on boats that do not have a capacity plate . I had a question on one of my boats. So I contacted the PA Boat and Fish commission ( I live it Pa) and they sent me a application form to get a new capacity plate. It cost $5. You have to fill it out and measure the boat in 4 different areas. you sent that in and they check it out and can issue you a new plate.

10 mile creek park, washington CO. rt 88 south

there are alternatives. they are called "SAILS" ;D

you said something that should jump right out at you. but I know how it gets when you are triing to find a problem you over look some stuff. you said that some of the switches do not work. Right? well, if they are not working you don't know if they are on or off. I would get the switched fixed. use that as a starting point. if that doesn't fix it I would make sure the battery is fully charged then disconect everything from it at hook things up one at a time. if you hook your motor up first and it doesn't drain it, then its not it. then hook up you ( lets say) lights, battery not dead, then its not them. keep doing this till the battery is drained then you know what is the problem. I know it will take some time , but you will find the problem, and here is one thing. make sure your key is in the off position, or better yet take the key out. on my one boat the trim would only work when the key was in the run position, but if you forgot to turn the key "off" it would drain the battery fast.

I bet it was a koi. they look like GF and grow fast. I bought on at Wallmart a few years ago for $3.00 it was 3 inches long. I had it in a 20gal tank and it grew to over 18inches long and over 3 pounds.before it died. I bet the one you saw got to big for someones tank and they put it in the river

the morning and eve is the best, but you can catch fish on them any time of the day or night. run the buzzbait over logs, close to docks, right along the edge of weeds. close or over any kind of cover.and this one that most don't do, but works great on river smallies, but ripps buzzbaits up. cast the bait onto shore, yes I said onto the shore, just a few inches from the water. then start to retrieve it. alot of the times they will hit it as soon as it hits the water.

TLBassin, you pay over $2500 a year to insure your boat? That $219 a month, did you mean $219 a year? I pay a bit more than 1/2 of that $2500 to insure 3 SUV's and 2 boats