Yudo1

I know it's not aluminum. I'm saying I'd spend more to get an aluminum reel over both of those options.

I'd throw a Daiwa SV103 on it.

If I could start over again, I'd limit myself to 5 or 6 combos. I'd also limit the amount of lures I've bought over the years that I don't use. It would be nice to have some of that money back. The way I prefer to fish, I could do just fine with the following. 1. 7'1" med/xf with 7.xx:1 reel 2. 7'4" mh/xf with 8:1 reel 3. 7' mh/mf with 6.xx:1 reel 4. 6'9" ml/f with 7:1 finesse casting reel 5. 7'2" heavy/fast with 8:1 reel This list is basically my most used combos in my current line up.

I use mine for top waters and shallow-mid depth cranks.

Spend the winter practicing your pitches. When I got my first baitcaster, I got a casting plug and practiced pitching to past the time over the long winter and by spring I was a pitching machine.

If you want the best, go straight for daiwa or shimano

I'll bet the nut threads are stripped. It happened to me when I didn't have it seated properly before tightening. A new nut did the trick.

I agree with others that the rod that you need to spend money on is the jig/worm rod. These rods are typically lighter, more balanced and more sensitive. Those qualities make the rod more expensive. You can use inexpensive rods for all of your reaction techniques like cranks, frogs, spinnerbaits etc.

I use an Orochi XX Jerkbait Special which is listed as "regular." It feels like a mod/fast to me. I like the parabolic action because I use braid with a fluoro leader and it keeps the fish pinned. My reel is 7.1 so I can pick up slack line quicker.

I started with shakespeare combos from walmart and gradually went up the ladder to eventually fishing kistler, megabass, NRX and daiwa/shimano for reels. While fishing with the budget gear, I still enjoyed fishing as much as now. The term "ignorance is bliss" comes to mind because sometimes I wish I never ventured into the world of high end gear because I'd have a lot more money in my pocket. On the other hand, fishing is my only real hobby and life is too short. It's only money. For me, better gear enhances the experience. Higher end rods are lighter, more balanced and more sensitive. I feel more connected to the river and lake because I feel more of it. The casts go where I want them to because accuracy is better. I work the baits better because of the action of the tip. The reels cast with less effort and less backlashing. In general, better gear gives me peace of mind and confidence. However, I believe gear in the $100-200 range offers the best value and I'd be perfectly happy with it.

I've fished a bunch of different brands and the only ones that I've consistently disliked were wright and mcgill rods like the yellow skeet reese rods and ugly blue rick clunn cranking rods. They just felt dead in my hands and not my cup of tea aesthetically.

japanlureshop.com and digitaka.com

The alphas sv is the current jdm version of the sv105. Both are based on the alphas platform, but the alphas sv can be purchased from japanlureshop or digitaka for under $200. The only difference is the sv105 has 2 more bearings which I believe are knob bearings. I added 2 bearings to my knobs which cost a couple bucks and now it has the same bearing count. In the end, I don't think the extra bearings made a noticeable difference. The sv103 is a totally different reel which is based on the original zillion platform. For your intended use, I'd choose the alphas sv over the sv 103.

The alphas sv is a great choice.

I don't have that particular model, but I would think that rod would excel with finesse plastics and hard baits too as long as you pair it with a capable reel and light line. I use my ML rod/pixy for ned rigs, grub/jig head, x rap 8's and shad raps. What reel are you using?

Fluoro would be fine for everything except topwater because it sinks.

For me, there's nothing more fun than a frog in the pads. Work it into the openings and some days you can almost predict the bite.

Fast or XF.

If that was my budget, I'd look for a used, aluminum, left-hand reel. I prefer daiwa/shimano, but lews and abu also make great reels IMO.

I use my orochi xx jerk bait special for jerk baits and topwaters. I use the braid/leader combo on it and have no complaints. The topwaters I use are mostly poppers of some sort and I find the combination of soft mod/fast tip and braid/leader work. If I used a fast or extra fast rod, I'd probably opt for something that had more stretch with the little trebles. With trebles, somethings got to give: rod, line or drag.

You just described the 7'6" KLX frog, jig, creature rod. I have the 7'3" version and it works for everything you want. Plus it's light as heck at 4.7oz for a 7'6" rod. Very versatile and sensitive with a clean, simple build.

A rod will be less tip heavy with a heavier reel, but using heavier reels to balance a rod is inefficient because it is too close to the fulcrum. I would go with a lighter reel and counterbalance the rod from the butt. I use rubber chair bumpers from the hardware store and add as many quarters it takes to balance it perfectly.

I use 1 rod for both baits: klx crank, rip, twitch in mh/mf. I also use it for chatter baits. It has the backbone to rip through light vegetation. I use a 7.1 gear ratio reel.

I prefer the hedgehog tool.

For me, swept handles are just aesthetically more appealing. Functionally, I don't feel a difference.