JustJames

I don’t have Met and was gonna order one, especially the USDM one. As far as differences, spool size JDM is 70 capacity while USDM is 150 capacity. USDM got bigger knob and of course a hefty price tag of 400 dollars while you can get JDM below 300. I end up with something else due to 1. narrow spool than usual. 2. If I want 90mm handle I have to get XG. I want HG. 3. Price tag I really wish the Met would work out because this was a replacement reel for my Bantam. So far I happy with my decision, though.

In this case I would just get SLX MGL combo, or find a used one 120 and spend money toward better rod. I used one and it wasn’t bad at all.

I’m working on it too since she already get Gucci purse for anniversary next month. Be warn though, last time I mentioned that, I got to sleep in dog house.

That known as 70 (first 70 reel from Shimano) or Curado 70i, what we are talking here is new different spool material, a lot of improvement Curado 70K MGL or know as 70 MGL. Question for OP, do you need the rod? Do you want any more setups? What make you feel better, using more expensive gears or using good gear without breaking the bank? Of course if money is no object, then buy whatever you like. Just like other why spend 230 for Curado when 290 can get you Aldebaran but better yet why not get 2020 Metanium for a little bit more, or just add 100 bucks more and get Antares, let not stop there go all the way to Conquest, shall we? My point is get whatever your budget around without cutting down your kids college fund.? Both reel should fish very close to each other, casting distance shouldn’t be far apart, similar in size and weight. Of course Curado is smoother and might last a few more years longer ?. Ppl already mention MM gear that provide smoothness, infamous X-ship bearing that make the reel feel sturdy when load with big fish (but also these bearing are main cause of infamous geary in a lot of Shimano reel). I’ll add one more, this Curado MGL also come with mainshaft support bearing, this will definitely make the reel feel even sturdier and might help prolong the life of X-Ship bearing. All those worth the xtra 80 bucks? Once is awhile we need to spoiled ourself with some nice gears just like the wife that buy all the purses and shoes. Of course kids come first.

Learn it on water to get a good result, don’t worry about target or skip under thing, just skip on open water to get a feel and lure movement. Use 10-12lb mono strip off about 10 yds and tape the spool to prevent bad backlash. If you have heavy 3/8oz floating plastics like Zman, use that, otherwise 3/8 jig with flat body trailer or Fatika is a good lure to learn. Once you mastered the movement, now you can start skip under thing on land or water.

Light under spin 1/8-3/8 if you fish from bank, 3/8-3/4 if you fish from floating device.

If this gonna be your first baitcaster and only one. I’d recommend 10lb yo-zuri hybrid line. The line is not too expensive and can be use as all around for most applications. The line is not too small that you can learn how to cast baitcaster and not too big that you would have to deal with line memory. Also using too small of line you might have problem when catching fish, (hook-set and fight) but too big of line will effect lure movement and sensitivity.

believe me trying to shake Neko Rig for hours and hours, and who would give up first ???. Torque control, subtle and natural move you name it, you will be surprised with bigger bass you would catch with these techniques.

No it doesnt. Each have it own purposes not just determined by lure weight. If you plan to use Curado BFS for Bass finesse fishing not just casting trout magnet, I’d say why not. It will make your life a lot easier when fishing something in 1/8-1/4oz weight (weightless worm, Ned Rig 1/16oz neko/wacky rig small jerkbait/topwater, even inline spinner), especially when you wanna use with thin braid. Some will say any modern baitcaster can cast those lures no problem, but with shallow light weight spool, you can cast further with less effort. You still have power and drag of baitcaster whenever you need it and also enable to use with any M/ML regular bass rod. Spinning on the other hand has it own place, to me it is about natural grip when holding just the rod not palming the reel. It help to move lure more naturally, more precise and subtle and doesn’t get tired as fast as palming baitcaster.

https://japantackle.com/special/daiwa-21zillion9. A Tatula look alike Zillion For OP. Depends on how you use the reel I guess. You value make in Japan more or Long lasting brass gear? Can you wait until USDM widely available? If you know where to order, you can get USDM not much more but you got full warranty service from Daiwa, but it might take another 2-3 weeks to ship to you. I ordered JDM version because I don’t want to wait any longer and my most absolute plan is to swap gear between Zillion Aluminum gear to my Alphas SV TW which is brass gear. I’d like zillion to be a brass gear because I plan to use Zillion mostly for Jig and Chatterbait, in the mean time I want Alphas SV TW to be as light as possible for general and Finesse fishing. Performance wise, both Zillion and Alphas are incredible smooth. I’m not worry much about using Daiwa aluminum gear. I’ve heard about geary feel but doesn’t happen a lot like Shimano. My old Steez Ex is using Aluminum gear. I used the heck out of it, chucking big jerkbait, big top water even plan for medium size (2oz swimbait) it was still perform very good the day I sold it.

The retail price is about 10 dollars difference. A lot easier to make decision base on type of handle you want. I went with exceler, actually sold my legalis to a good friend and bought exceler to replace it in the purpose of, I can get different handle if I want to (widely available compare to hex type handle). My old beat up Sahara 750FB (10 years old) also got Hex handle and still working just find, I pulled more than a few of 4-7lb catfish with that reel while fishing for crappie.

That how I do mine, as I mentioned firm hold rod and line in one hand, with another hand on the reel. The hand on the rod is the one yanking/jerking while the hand on the reel just help prevent line slipping. If it doesn’t brake in one quick yank, then replete again. Been doing that for years and all my reels still working just fine. I don’t do this to all the line just the one I think I can brake off with just pull, this case 15lb FC. I even use bottle of water to help me pulling bigger line before but don’t need with just 15lb FC.

I don’t just palm the reel and yank. One hand hold the rod and line another hand thumb the spool firm to not let the line slip but not tight to the point of bending the shaft. If shimano and Daiwa shaft cannot handle this type of pressure every once in a while to brake 10-15lb FC I would buy something else.

Beside color change I don’t really see anything new, still old D2 material unlike other JDM Daiwa that gone to new plastic type (heavier) or Zaion V (cheaper than Zaion). There are more option of size and gear ratio. I might get one in 2000 size. The difference between each model and about 10-15 dollar. Regal no airbail. Legalis Fold down hex handle (over time this can get loose) Exceler screw in handle, some said this type handle stronger than hex handle (cannot change knob) Fuego add magnetic seal and knob can be replace not riveted in like cheaper one. Please do not drop regular reel oil on to the shaft of this reel, it might get mix with mag oil and damage the seal property on Mag seal.

So what do you have now? If you are going to use the reel for Ned rig or light shakey head with braid line 1000/2000 is enough. Don’t be fool by carbon VS felt drag, believe me you won’t even use 50% of your maximum stock drag when fishing for bass. I never have to set drag more than 30% all I need is just a light touch from my index finger if I want to slow down the run. You want that cushion to protect your finesse rod anyway. The only bad part on felt is, if you let it sit for awhile, the drag trend to stick. You can either loosen your drag when store or do a couple pull before start fishing for the drag to loosen up. You might also need some service a little more often on felt (just clean and apply a little bit of grease). Now to the reel, for those technique I like the lightest possible reel. Imagine shaking 8oz reel for a few hours, it will get tired fast. If you can spend for Zaion material I’d say go for it, otherwise Legalis, exceler or Fuego (if you want mag seal) should do just fine. The flex can happen since it plastic not aluminum but that mostly because of tight drag and super big or hard running fish.

15lb FC is not difficult to break at all. I don’t pull till it break but a quick yank a couple time should do the trick. Be prepared to duck if lure snagged very close believe me with steady pull the lure can fly right at your face even 15’ away.

I normally use 3/8 - 1/2oz and fish like jig or yo-yoing MH 6’10 or 7.1 XF. Line 10lb copolymer or 30lb braid, reel anything shimano to get the most out of distance.

Maybe, line too small and too hard whip on such heavy lure. To me, braid is not optimal line for this type lure or even lipless crank. It can work but need to adjust the cast to be a little softer, big lob swing cast. I’m not sure if go with bigger line would help. you might not break the line when snap but it would dig in bad that you might have to cut the line.

But would those spending make the reel feel more expensive? Would it work better than what he has already spent? You are right “the cheap reels work perfectly fine no need to waste any more money. He got higher end reels (curado K and Chronarch MGL, I believe) do you think which reel he is going to use more in future? Your logic is kind of off too, drinking milk already bought so it doesn’t go bad and spending even more money on cheap reel, total difference thing.

Not really as long as you have the special tool to open side plate. That special tool is very hard to find but I think there might be some smart handy man make it available. I saw one you tube that DIY some metal tube to fit Daiwa side plate.

Almost agree on everything you said above, I would use Tatula for crappie if it comes in slower gear ratio. In fact I wouldn’t buy either Vanford or ballistic FW if Tatula come with more gear ration option. If above Tatula I would look for Ballistic FW, but that reel is JDM so I wouldn’t want to recommend it. Vanford, though offer a piece of mind for X protect where Tatula got no protection but it doesn’t really matter much in fresh water unless you plan to use the reels for years without maintenance.

Your logic seems a little off. A good set of ceramic bearing is about 25 bucks to upgrade 50 dollars reel. That 50% value of the reel, I doubt you would see performance increase not even 5%. Same concept when you bashed Scorpion MGL but praise Curado K which basically the same reel and scorpion got better spool that would cover more techniques and even more beautiful color. ????? Just keep the reel as is and use it where you think might damage your higher end reel, or make it as a loaner reel.

Amen to that. I once fall into the victim as well using small FC as leader. Line broke so many time. Now I use copolymer Izorline equivalent to diameter of FC I want (4lb for crappie and 8lb for bass)

I doubt shimano will bring SLX BFS to US market since both reels are pretty much the same with color theme and two less bearing (supposedly knob bearing)

It is good for my friends but not good enough for me.