JustJames

The friction ring is under rotor, spool has nothing to do with it. You have to remove rotor to check the ring. Remove rotor is pretty easy, then remove friction ring to see if the jam problem is solved. If not and if you are not sure how to open up the reel. It might be a good time to send to professional for tuneup and clean. If problem solved, then you might need new friction ring which pretty cheap. If you reel is 2500 size, I have old friction ring from Stradic CI4 that might work in your reel.

When you clean the reel, have you check that friction ring, if it is swollen or out of place.

It is super light weight reel, frame is magnesium, super smooth compare to those of Daiwa or newer shimano. It is also one of smallest reel (you might not like it if you have big hand). The 50 spool size is great for Light line and finesse fishing, weightless trick worm, 1/4oz lure, but powerful enough to fish jig or chatterbait. In another word, I use this reel for everything. The con, since it is old reel then there is no external adjustment, but a lot seem to like old VBS set it and forget it better. The 50 size spool will limit you on line size 12lb hybrid about 80-90yds. weightless worm. 1/4oz Finesse Jig.

I started with Legalis LT and see potential of Daiwa LT series and I was using Shimano Stradic CI4. Once I decided to go all in with spinning then I upgrade to Tatula LT 1000 and 2000. Then come the need of getting slower speed reel which Tatula LT doesn’t offer, So I order Ballistic FW LT 5.2 gear and for the benefit of Zaion Rotor (lighter and stiffer than Tatula LT material) and bigger spool size 2500S-C. In the meantime ordered another Exceler LT 2000 in slower gear ratio (again not available here). Just before Exceler arrived found a good deal on Kage LT 2000 and my baitmonkey told me “you have to have it” lol. Now my liking in Daiwa might not same as your guys, but that ATD drag is superb, especially for my light line fishing and of course the smoothness. I was in the same about shallow spool, it cool, it different but I don’t care for it that much. The shallow spool only save a few grams of weight compare to deep spool after backing and I’m talking almost 2/3 of mono backing. But with deep or standard spool you have option of using super line or mono line. Heck even with 2500S I still add almost 1/2 of backing since I use only 75 yds of 8lb nanofil. The thing I wanna see more from Daiwa, more options of gear ratio 4.8 and 5.2 in different size, counter balance rotor like shimano and a true 500 size reel.

@WRBmight be right, even the 2500 and 3000c use a lot of same parts and body but I think rotor or bail parts is a little bit different(about 5-6parts), I don’t remember. Unlike 1000 and 2000, all the parts are the same except spool. If you like give me a day or two to compare that parts.

Buy it, that one of the best reel available. It just like the core version in Japan. I still felt bad that I sold that reel. If you don’t want it, tell me where.

It will be a lot easier if you take off that red cover. Insert the pin with spring into the bail part first, then install the bail while pushing the whole pin/spring into housing. There might be another small plastic part inside the housing, so be careful when removing it.

For 1/8-1/4oz total weight with some wind, that gonna be though for any reels. Line is also critical with this weight lure. I would go with lightest and shallowest spool you can find. This case I believe aldebaran 30MGL might be a ticket.

Oops, look the same to me as well. I had, awhile ago, the JDM version. One of the guy here point out the shimano Singapore description to have MM gear, but I doubt it and too bad I didn’t open mine up before sold the reel.

Thanks, I just try to find a way to carry less thing while fishing, so that set is good but only one would be better. My boomerang is short tip version that I have it attached to my backpack. I don’t want it to poke me or my cloth while fishing. BTW I believe you know but just to remind everybody else, this boomerang can be in lock position with two blades close (press down and pull back a little)

How this thing cut braid? I was gonna buy something like this but afraid it wouldn’t last long just like most of the pliers without braid cutter. I always carry Boomerang Forceps type with snip tool but lost it now and then, this is my second or third set and it I loose it again I’m gonna buy something else. I have aluminum fishing pliers but that is too big when I fish for panfish.

If you can find it, the Tatula original TAT701MFS rod would be a good match with your new Tatula LT. Otherwise try Tatula XT 7’ M or ML. I have Tatula original 7’ Medium Fast pair with Daiwa Ballistic FW LT 2500C and couldn’t be happier. This is my finesse setup.

First of all, congrat for your new Tatula, you made a good decision. The line capacity rated on Daiwa mostly for Japanese Line which might be smaller diameter than US rate line. Which mono line are we talking here? 200 yds is still plenty of line for any fresh water fishing. Secondly, you shouldnt drop the whole spool in very worn water, that might damage the drag system either felt or carbon.

@MickDI recommended up size braid because he fish in cover not for long cast hook set. Man I should go back and learn how to speak English all over again.

Yeah, I only fish early morning or late at night, this time of year. The most fun part is, You double the feeling of excitement with the bite when you don’t see it.

Daiwa can go head to head with Shimano, ever since I tried Legalis now I have Exceler LT, Tatula LT, Kage LT and Ballistic FW LT. Still have old Stradic CI4 that also come with anti reverse switch. Just like @wrb mentioned these reel are smooth drag, especially ATD drag from Daiwa that let line out more when sudden pull. I never need back reel. I would be happier if Daiwa doesn’t come with switch, since that can be a weak spot for water to get in.

It should work fine, Most of my finesse outfits 8-10lb braid with 8lb Izorline or 10-12lb abrazx. I only use double uni knot 6-7 wraps on braid 4-5 wraps on leader. I only fish finesse type in open water, around rock/rip rap and docks area. BUT how long do you wanna cast out and what type of cover? Thin braid doesn’t have much abrasions resistance. Also with long cast, you might have a lot more of miss hook set. The 10-12lb FC leader is good but problem is the thin braid and soft tip on finesse type spinning rod. You might have to up size your braid to 15-20lb with MH spinning rod to fish around cover 8lb Nanofil + 8lb izorline.

Do I hear Daiwa? Any of LT reel in any price point from Revros LT to Tatula LT would be good.

@QUAKEnSHAKE, this is true and I don’t see it mentioned often. If you split spool you throw away 20-30yds time 2 or 3. I do this but to only on my baitcasters which get full spool of only braid, to save weight and to only throw away once. i don’t even use backing since most of my baitcaster are 50-70 size or shallow spool. But with spinning reel, which I consider myself still new and only use it exclusively late last year, I wanna be able to add backing material to bring the line back to the rim of spool, to get the most distance out of it. It might not matter much when using with average lure but with light lure I found when the line get low under spool too much (1/4”) the distance is suffered. To strip off 100-200 yds of line out from spinning in order to add more backing material is kind of plain in ......with 50 - 75yds is a lot easier, just walk it off add a few wrap of plumbing tape and we are done. I also recycled old line into shallow spool baitcaster to save even more. I have done this a few times with both my Sahara 750 and CI4 2500. This might change if I find a better way around it.

I think I answered your question, I only use spinning for finesse and ultralight so 200’ is plenty. Now your preference might be different or other as well. You will have to find what fit your situation the best.

Depends on which line, mono or braid? A lot of spinning users turn to thin braid and that gonna be hard to calculate backing because with spinning if you don’t have the line almost at the rim you might not get distance you want. I only have about 200’ of line (6-10lb braid) on spinning and backing to almost 3/4 of spool. Even my shallow spool 2500 size get almost half of the backing since I’m using 8lb nanofil. If you plan to use small diameter mono which is not too expensive then 1/2of backing might be fine. I’m not sure which reel you have, but if I remember correctly Daiwa have groove on bottom of spool to help guide you with backing. I found it These are deep spool so first grove might indicate standard spool size, second grove might be shallow spool size. If you gonna use mono backing to first groove, thin 10-15lb braid backing all the way to second groove. You can adjust from there on out to fit your need.

As of currently I have 3 reel with yellow braid, Sufix 832, original PP and Windtamer. The yellow braid is hold up better than chartreuse and not faded as bad. I like Sufix 832 the best. This is how pro feel the line on spinning.

Boomerang is good until you start cutting 8-15lb mono/FC in the mixed, especially the knot part. It still cut but not clean cut anymore. I always try to remember to cut mono on bottom part and leave top part only for braid but always mess up. My next boomerang will be only for braid.

Let see here from shimano japan the 2500 using 46.5mm spool 46.5mm = 4.65cm = circumference of 14.608cm time by revolution of gear 6 = 87.65cm divided by 2.5 = 35.06” per turn of handle. Im just messing with you Tom lol.

Nah not much bigger Tom, most of 2500 spool around 45mm 200 size baitcaster 34 mm. 10mm ~ 1cm ~ .39” ~ 3/8” ?