JustJames

The one that got use the most and have to have some in stock always with different color selection. Yamamoto D-Shad Fluke Senko 4-5” Yamamoto Double Tail Hula grub 5” Yamamoto Fat Ika Zman ZinkerZ Zman FinesseZ Roboworm Straight Tail. Rage Menace. Missile Bait destroyer. Zoom baby Brushhog.

Yes and No, no matter what braid can get line twisted on spinning and overtime it can become a bad wind knot. It might take longer to show than mono. I wonder that you never notice with PP. it happens to all the lines I use on my spinning, Sufix 832, PP super slick, Windtamer even Nanofil. To remedy this, I either let the line out in water or on grass (no lure) 50-100 feet and reel in with tension from two fingers or you can follow Glenn method here. with boat Or shoreline

I hope we are talking about ci4+ FB, you aware that it will cost you about 60 to buy just 2000 spare spool, right? Can you tell me diameter of your 1000 spool. Like I said shimano pulled out old Stradic ci4 info so I had to look at Cardiff ci4 which pretty much the same. The 1000 spool is 42mm while 2000 spool is 43mm so you only gain 1mm which is not much at all. If you spool in 40mm then the 3mm might worth the invest. Shallow spool, I don’t care it much, braid backing would take care it once and for all.

If you come from metanium, I think spend a little more and get the 2020 metanium. I like my bantam but it is one heavy reel. I use mostly for Jig and moving bait. The new Metanium seems to be about the same size as bantam, but a lot lighter with brass gear. If I’m gonna buy a reel right now, metanium is the one.

The Vanford is to replace the whole Stradic CI4+ line, so no confusing between Stradic FL (aluminum) or Stradic CI4+ FB (Carbon). It is a smart move from shimano but bad on the name lol. If you are buying CI4 at the full price, I would say go for Vanford. New MM gear, X-protect and long stroke spool. The deep discount on CI4+ already passed, not a lot of place carry it anymore or at the full price. Vanford has been shipput, a lot of ppl got their shipment from pre-ordered.

Before hand, I don’t own CI4+ and In theory They should, the C2000 indicated for compact body of 2000 spool on 1000 body. My Daiwa Tatula LT 2000 and 1000, the spool are interchangeable. all parts are the same only spool that different. A question, what are you trying to achieve here? Buying a 2000 spool from Japan in hope that it will fit in your 1000 ci4+? you want shallow spool instead of standard spool that come with your 1000? You hope for bigger spool? Last question is how much 2000s spool would cost you? The different 1000 spool is either 40 or 42mm standard spool while 2000S is 43mm shallow spool. The weight and drag capacity is the same.

I’ll take that size any days.

As long as you take good measure to protect you reels. It just like everything else in life “s h i t happens” the first scratch would be hard to digest, after awhile you will get use to it. I don’t buy reels just to make them a shelf queen. If you buy a reel and don’t use them, it is only half of enjoyment. Imagine, seeing your friend drop your brand new reel on a drive way, s h i t happens. Another reason I don’t take a lot of setups with me when bank fishing, or have alternative reels for kayak and float tube.

Changing spool size to add more line capacity not gonna help you for long, may be a few more hang ups and you would be looking for new line again. Changing to less snag type lure, learn how to brake line off from snag and not hitting yourself in the face, smaller leader, trilene XL 8lb is not hard to brake off anyway. Leaving a lot of line in water is not a good thing, birds or other fish can get into those tangle, other fishermen or even yourself can get even more snag from those line.

“Forced to cut line” so you cut line from spool every time you snag?

Not completely the same but stick bait can be fish as fast, the same way you fish soft plastic jerkbait. The darting left and right motion will be less, and sink a little faster. I caught bass twisting 4-5” senko fast before, on top of weed and around shallow edge area.

A used aldebaran 50 or 30 MGL should be good for 3/16 and in your price range. You might be able to go as low as 1/8oz if you have a good suitable rod, most of M power rod not gonna cut it.

Best value, shimano and daiwa beat resale price, shimano and Daiwa.

Why limit yourself just one line, different techniques, cover and structure required different line size and type. Open water, soft plastic bottom contact or crankbait you might get away with 8lb, jig/frog, in and around cover bigger diameter line is better or even braid to at least have enough strength to withstand power of hookset and pull fish away from cover/weed. Now if you have only one setup 8-10lb is good start but choose whatever techniques that fit you line size.

There are Yumeya knob that exact the same as stock one with EVA or Cork. I replace mine long time ago to regular shimano knob.

3.7oz that is pretty light. I weight my 1st gen Zodias 6’10 H (casting) which weight more than Tatula 6’10 MH and also Tatula is balance better. I also compare the Tatula7’0 with My crucial 6’8 ML and it weight about the same despite the fact that crucial got a balancer kit on its butt. I might try to find 6’9 M to compare. All I care is weight and balance on spinning rod.

I don’t care about 20lb FC line but I like your style of fishing lol.

I don’t have experience for the lake north of LA, @WRBmight come shortly. He is an expert both in the area and bass fishing.

Which Catania is this? From this video there is a anti reverse switch on the side.

If you want to have the reel that enable reverse spin BUT at all time and if you are good with reel. Look at this video you might be able to disengage the spring without the switch. Don’t quote me on it, never tried it myself just an idea.

Most of the modern reel come equip with a good smooth drag. There is no need for back reeling, trust your drag and concentrate on keepping pressure on the fish. My .02. I believe some of the old timers still back reel instead off utilizing the drag, but new anglers these day (a big market group) don’t know how to back reeling effectively. I’m for one don’t know how. The switch is more parts, more cost and more hole for water to get in. I think it is a right move from shimano. All my Daiwa reels come with switch, I tried to use it once or twice but never get a good result. The switch is there and connect to mechanism/level to disengage anti reverse clutch and make it able to spin both way.

How light is the rod? One of my all time favorite spinning rod is Crucial Dropshot gen1 6’8 XF 1/8-3/8oz. It is super lightweight, very well balance and sensitivity is very good. Even it is rated as XF, but not super fast at all, the tip is soft yet can handle Senko very well. I broke the rod, got curado as replacement (shakey head) 6’10 XF 3/16-5/8oz. This rod is also sensitive enough but it is heavier, really fast tip and tip heavy. The backbone is a lot more than crucial and can handle big bass with ease. I caught quite a bit of bass with the rod including 4-5lb bass, but sold the rod after I lost three rigs back to back to back, from line broke after hook set (6lb FC leader). I came across Daiwa Tatula OG 7’ M/F 1/8-3/4oz and happy with the rod so far. It is what I’m searching for all along after loosing the crucial, Light 118 grams, sensitive and balance is perfect with all my Daiwa LT. The tip is soft and fast enough yet backbone is there when big fish come along (not 3/4 more like 1/2oz). This rod can handle Ned rig all the way to Senko class with ease, I use the rod for mostly 1/16oz Neko rig Finesse worm or 6” fat roboworm. The problem is when I up the weight to 3/32oz with ZinkerZ or Senko the tip now become over load, too soft to get a good action. Now I’m thinking of getting another good rod that can handle a little heavy weight for deeper water. I was plan to go JDM version (majorcraft) since most of the US rods come with those 1/2” thick blank and a bit too heavy. I’m curious to know about this Zodias and might answer my question.

Whoa whoa whoa, just so you know I’m a shimano Fanboys. My next spinning reel gonna be Vanford for sure but don’t know if I should get 2000 to replace my old CI4 or 500 to replace Sahara 750. Last night I took out my old faithful CI4 fishing caught 2 but the reel felt like crap. That is a problem of me using those d..n Daiwas for quite awhile lol.

As a lot of mentioned here, Braid help in line management, cast further and smaller reel can be use effectively. Also you can get away with higher line rate compare to mono/FC (10lb braid is normal on spinning but you gonna have a hard time with 10lb FC). Leader is help with abrasions where thin braid wouldn’t withstand a chance around rock. I don’t care much about visibility of braid vs mono, because you are gonna be using 10-15braid with diameter of 2-4lb mono line.

The BG is a good reel and should last a life time or twos, no doubt about it. But for your application, Ned and Shakey Head, I’m not sure using such heavy setup would benefit any good. You pick 7’6 rod, that thing is long and heavy, pair with a tank reel (which I don’t see the need for bass) how do you fish it comfortably and apply shaking motion for hour? If it is cast and reel like swimbait I don’t care much about weight but for finesse presentation, the light and well balance setup would help by a long shot. Last time I used my 7’6 shimano Compre 1/16-5/8oz (lighter than a lot of comparable rod) jigging for crappie then switched to bass setup, d**n they felt like feather.