JustJames

Line twisted? I don’t see any problem. I’m using super line, braid and nanofil. Line twisted will happen with any spinning reels, but as long as you know how to prevent and fix it there shouldn’t be any problem. Do not whip cast spinning reel and always stop the line before lure hit water. Fuego using different material compare to Zaion on Tatula and Ballistic. I’ve heard it too especially on bigger size 3000 where ppl use it for bigger fish or saltwater. I have cheap Daiwa LT, Legalis and Exceler 1000/2000 size and never experienced frame flex. Stradic CI4+ is discontinued, so it is gonna be harder to find. If you have to pay at full price, I’d rather wait for Vanford (upgrade version of CI4+). I think some already get a shipment on Vanford.

You are a lucky man, all I ever get is a $50 bass pro gift card lol. Talk about the reel, what do you have to compare? Or what do you have now?. If compare to Daiwa LT line up like Tatula LT or Fuego LT, for me it worth it to get Zaion Rotor from Ballistic FW. The Tatula LT is one smooth reel but Ballistic FW is smooth with lower inertia. But since it is your BD why don’t add another 30-50 bucks and get a Luvias LT with MQ body. But another reel to consider is Shimano Vanford (ci4+) at about the same price, you get USA warranty, MGL rotor with counter balance, MM gear and Long Stroke Spool. I have old CI4 not plus and my Tatula LT is way smoother but I really wanna give this Vanford a try. This is the level I would spend for one good spinning reel.

For the past two months, Daiwa Tatula TAT701MF Daiwa Ballistic FW 2500S-C Nanofil 8lb to 8lb Izorline Neko Rig, Zman FinesseZ caught Bass almost every night. Just caught another one tonight. For the whole year Shimano Crucial ML CRS-D68ML 1/16-1/4oz Daiwa Tatula 2000 LT Nanofil 6lb to 4lb Izorline. Caught a few hundreds crappies so far, plus another 5 this evening.

All handle should interchangeable between shimano reels only “nut cap” in some model might not fit different handle. Look at Caius handle, you should be able to swap just handle from K or SLX. Spool is different story, shimano always make some change between model, and hard to tell if it would fit unless try it. Just MGL spool might cost about the same as your reel.

Worth it?, is so subjective. The curado is a little more refined, not in a smooth way but solid feel. SLX MGL is not a bad reel either, a little bit cheaper feel, a little more internal plastic part, no X-Ship bearing that you have to worry about geary feel. I got more control on SLX MGL but more distance on curado 70. I remembered curado 70 priced at about 150-160 before it’s been discontinued. If you can get used for around 120-130, I’d say you should try one. I sold one of mine pretty new for 120. The new Curado 70 MGL is priced higher at 229, this is gonna be tough decision. You get 8+1 bearing (4 in knobs, I assumed) but micro module gear and xtra bearing X-ship. I’m not even sure now if I’m gonna get one. I might get one eventually to show support as shimano fanboys lol.

Oh thanks, I’m aware of that The thing is nobody mention about memory effect when using mono/FC which would happen even shallow spool like SV spool. So why Daiwa recommended only 1/2 spool? To make spool even lighter, to cast backlash free but don’t get optimal distance? Now think about ppl starts using this method with not so shallow spool like one of those YouTube guy video on one of his Abu Revo.

nah... Don’t fill only half spool, instead backing 1/2 spool with braid on regular spool. You eliminate IPT and coil memory issue (even more important that IPT). Don’t be another reel test guy, but he got that idea from Daiwa SV professional, imho. Shallow spool, do whatever you want lol.

I’m with @WRB, from shore 1/4 finesse jig is good, matching with baby rage maniac or baby rage craw. I like arkie style head better than football head, less snag for me. If I fish from dock or kayak, cast to shore and drag down then 3/8oz would be my choice.

CD05 would be good comparable size to F07 but cast a mile further. If you wanna fish on top just cast it out and reel quick with rod tip high once lure hit water. I try to avoid trebles hook now, I haven’t use any of my topwater lure at all this year even most of them switched to single hook.

I have heard it work especially around launch ramp area why bass hang around. Personally I hate those boat traffic, since where I live is like vacation Lake. When they (water skiers) come out my fishing time is ended. It might be good for once awhile churn up but this lake is like every 5 mins for hours.

I’m confused, first off you don’t have any experience on baitcaster whatsoever. You know or you think you know you have problem. Instead of fixing the problem with might be super easy, and learn from there, you think buying a new reel would help you. There were a lot of recommendations to help you there but have you ever follow those suggestion? Adding more weight to your Texas’s rig, change to heavier and more aerodynamic lure like chatterbait or jig. Change plastic type instead of rage craw, try Senko. There are plenty of reels that you can buy but none come with idiots proof backlash and casting performances guaranteed. It is your first baitcaster reel and first time using it. You might set it wrong or cast it the wrong way to only get 30-45’.

I don’t doubt at all that, I would catch more fish with 4lb line. Now how much impact would .009mm (4lb)line compare to .011(8lb) to bass visibility or lure movement? As a lot of opinion about bass is not so line shy creatures.

Rod rated 3/8-1oz, that stiff like hell. I wouldnt use the rod with light Texas rig. That might be good for heavy jig or frog but nowhere near optimum for 1/8oz Texas rig. Do you have any friends that fish and can show you around with baitcaster since you don’t really have experience with it. DC reel even a newbie friendly reel but still need some learning curve. Stick with your gut using spinning for lighter setup with plastic and keep DC reel for something else might work.

As of now MGL spool with 70 size only on SLX, Aldebaran 30/50 and JDM metanium/Antares MGL, the rest are 150 size. I have bantam MGL but that reel is never intended to use with Finesse. The bantam got 12lb copolymer line which I use for 3/8oz Jig, chatterbait but I can cast 1/8oz shakey head with ease. Why ppl buy MGL, same reason as why ppl buy BFS because they can cast light lure with baitcaster and they don’t want to be called “sissy” using spinning. And of course I’m one of them LOL. Or ppl just buy it because “MGL name” without even knowing what MGL suppose to do it for you. BTW these day higher end reel shimano come equipped with MGL spool. It just a new standard,I guess. Have you heard of Chronarch G? I guess not, Chronarch G is the same as Chronarch MGL, shimano offer none MGL spool version for more saltwater friendly but doesn’t seem like anybody want it and shimano now advertise the MGL as well as their magnesium reels are saltwater friendly.

I like 8-10lb line for Senko. It is not landing the fish that I worry but to dive the 4/0 hook into fish mouth. With my typical senko hook set and M+ to MH rod, I would get a lot of brake off with lighter line. If wacky rig I can go down to 6lb line.

As mentioned this MGL spool should or supposed to be lighter than regular spool. Let look at SLX MGL spool weight about 13 grams compare to almost 16 grams of SLX XT. And yes in theory lighter spool should help light weight lure to fly off reel easier. Another reason all BFS reels try to built spool as light as possible. Other factors to be consider are line diameter and line capacity. Bigger diameter line require more pull force compare to smaller line. Bigger spool capacity 150 vs 70 full spool on 150 would add a couple more grams compare to smaller spool (SLX XT 150 size vs SLX MGL 70 size) Now let look at you lure listed, weightless trick worm (3/16oz) shouldn’t be in the same category as weightless senko (3/8). Weightless trickworm might benefit from light weight spool whereas SLX XT might cast senko further. Have you try to free spin spool with line and without line? Heavier spool (with line) trend to spin longer (energy). Now let look at comparison 70 size reel, I can cast 5” senko further on my curado 70 (none MGL) or even regular SLX but SLX MGL have more control with both trick worm and senko. Confused yet? No? Because the heaviness of curado 70 spool about 17 grams that it harder to stop once spin, even when the lure stop but spool still spinning result in professional over run but I don’t have this problem with 1/16 Ned Rig even about the same weight as Trick worm, why? That 1/16oz head and smaller profile of Ned Rig help pulling the lure further give me more time to control the spool. Why a lot of ppl recommend spinning setup when come to finesse so you don’t have to worry about over run and pay more attention to target or accuracy. Now you want multi-purpose reels, yes the SLX MGL can be a multi-purpose reel but you might have to get 2 or three reels for different line type. 6-8lb for finesse worm/wacky rig, 10-12 for senko or Texas rig, 30lb braid for Jig or top water (btw the SLX MGL you can get only 70-80yds if you use 14lb line) Why MGL? to complete with well known and best selling SV reel from Daiwa of course. But no matter what it is hard to complete with true free floating spool from Daiwa higher end reel (no shaft) which is my choice of finesse reel Daiwa Alphas SV. If you are looking at one size fit all, it might be a little bit harder in this case, The MGL might be good for weightless trickworm and wacky rig senko but you get restricted with line size, or you get a spinning setup with 10-15lb braid and get it done with. The DC reel shouldn’t be in consideration when buying finesse reel, shouldn’t even compare to SLX MGL

You can wrap hook shank with dental floss or braid to act like bait holder for more super glue surface. I have another method for bait holder but not sure if it will survive small mouth. I use this with crappie jig. Shrink tube on hook, last about 20 and up crappie before I have to replace plastic.

I like light line fishing for quite sometime. Before it has been done with mostly casting gear which still can feel over power the fish even with ML rod and 6-8lb line. I turned to spinning late last year and enjoy it more and more. I decided to sold my big swimbait setup and all of it earlier this year. I use less and less casting gear for ultralight and finesse, man I don’t even know what to do with all those 8-10 casting setups.

It depends on when the bite happened. If while you are working/moving the lure, you can improve the bite detection, keep as much tension as possible, I feel the bite better with mono/FC when fishing slack line with senko, otherwise lighter braid. If the bite happen on the drop after cast, that is a little bit harder to detect the bite even with experience anglers. I don’t let senko fall on completely slack line, I’d reel the line a little to keep just enough tension to let senko fall on it own weight and lift the rod up 90 degree while my index finger touch the line at all time. This case I have to cast further off the target since senko would sink pendulum toward you.

7.2:1, easier to speed up than slowing down. Or 6.3:1 if you want some deep cranking or big blade on spinnerbait.

It is nice to have but not necessity. The SLX is a good caster by itself just like any old Shimano VBS “set it and forget it” you don’t need a lot of adjustment. I see benefit of fine tune adjustment for those that change type of lure on same setup and in extreme. I have SLX but I bought this before the SLX XT come out. I use the reel mostly heavy type lure, 3/8 jig, 1/4-3/8oz Texas rig, weightless Senko/Fatika, chatterbait and 3/8-1oz top water lures. I don’t miss that fine tune adjustment at all. Worth is or not is up to your budget, 20-30 bucks is not really a big deal for some. Waiting to come back in stock might be a long while. But one thing to remember, The XT might be able to sell faster than regular if need upgrade.

There should be no restrictions whatsoever to cast senko with baitcaster, any reels should be able to handle Senko just fine, rod M if you wanna get casting distance, MH for cover type fishing, pitching or flipping. So get whatever reel you feel like.

I did it twices, I believe. One to save my favorite LC jerkbait, but it was prettt shallow about chest high. Second time was for bull shad that I just bought. I don’t dive to save the lure just swim to opposite side of retrieving just like when you try to in snag from boat.

At my lake, a lot of kids use trebles hook and snag them, some adults use sabiki rig with weight on bottom. They can get 15-20 within hour 2” size (cast net is illegal here). I saw them do that all the time, the problem is a lot of kids gutted hook the fish, adult I’m not sure if they keep the fish. The old guy told me, he change water quite often and a freeze bottle of water help prolong their life. I don’t plan to even one of the kids offered me his shad. But who know one of these day I might just net them for fun. https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/ba8mIrTJTFSQjOu2ApBDRw.W53uGar5wwm2dszimr9-J4

It is just my opinion of Alphas SV being fragile. I didn’t say it is a bad reel and I’m still using it but strictly for light line fishing. Feel whatever you like but I’ll stand by my feel. You won’t see me using Alphas SV for jig, chatterbait or 1oz topwater lure.