Tpayneful

Remove both toothpicks. Stick your hand through the magnetic housing and press your finger on the end of the shaft of the motor. Now quickly lower the magnetic housing onto the motor. You have to hold the motor to keep it from being pulled from the brushes and have to do it all over again.

Remove motor from magnetic housing. Place motor in brushes.

Use 1/4 inch nut driver to install brush plate. Push each brush into place and stick a toothpick in to hold it into place. Squirt more silicone into hole if necessary.

Attach wires to brush plate. Push the tip of the caulk gun into the shaft hole in the cone and completely fill the hole with 100% clear silicone.

Push the red and black wires down the shaft from the head to the cone. Use a flat head screw driver and needle nose pliers to get the red and black wires around the transducer cable.

I cut the transducer cable about a foot longer than the shaft and push it through the hole and up the shaft of the trolling motor.

Drill a hole in the threaded section of the metal housing going through the shaft. I lined it up with the edge of the hole used previously for holding the cable.

Use the Dremmel tool with a cone shaped stone to remove the paint from the top of the trolling motor cone.

Remove the 4 phillips head screws from the Trolling motor head with a #2 phillips screw driver. Remove the top of the head. Pull both the red and the wires up the shaft and out of the head.

Remove the wire clips from the brush plate

Use the 1/4" nut driver to remove the two screws holding the brush plate to the cone

Remove the motor housing from the cone

Remove the two screws with a 1/4" nut driver

Remove the prop nut with the 1/2" ratchet

Last weekend I decided that I would cut the transducer cable on my TM mount puck, drill a hole in the shaft and run the cable up to the head of my Minn Kota Power Drive 40lb thrust trolling motor. My motor is 4 years old and well out of warranty. A friend did this years ago so I am copying him. I have taken pictures of each step and will describe what I did. To begin you will need to gather the following materials: 1/8" heat shrink 1/4" heat shrink 100% clear silicone tie wraps JB Weld 2 toothpicks You will need the following tools: Caulk gun Caliper 25 Watt soldering iron wire strippers wire cutters needle nose pliers 1/4" nut driver flat screw driver #2 phillips screw driver 1/2" ratchet Dremmel tool cone shaped stone bit drill 3/16" drill bit Lighter Here is a picture of the motor and cable before it was modified:

The SPRO is good but I like to throw the Zoom Horny Toad or Stanley Ribbit before I throw the SPRO. I like to throw them on mats of vegetation, lilly pads and around stickups. They work great over hydrilla beds. I had most of my success with them in the middle of spring all the way through the summer.

trailboss503, I own a SELOC repair manual number 1308 for Evinrude and Johnson outboard motors. It states "NEVER operate the engine over 1000 RPM with a flush device attached, because the engine may "RUNAWAY" due to the no load condition on the propellor." It also states "To test the water pump , the lower unit MUST be moved into a body of water." An outboard repair shop backs the trailer and boat into a water filled pit or uses a barrel full of water to test your engine. This will keep the propellor from spinning too fast and also ensure that the engine has a adequate supply of water to cool the engine. They shouldn't rev the engine with a flush device. If they do, you need a new outboard mechanic. Do you believe me now?

You can fish heavier lures with higher pound test line. My accuracy is significantly better with a baitcaster and my thumb. I can control where and how my lure lands better with a baitcaster.

bigbadaaron, I didn't even know that they had telescopic ones until you mentioned it. I just found one at BPS. I think the rope ones work best. This is the one that I have and it works great....Cheep too!

Muddy, Glad I didn't step on your crank! Actually my wifes name is on the Cabelas catalog! She is the only one that has purchased anything there! I think she got it from her daddy who is a big time hunter! It looks like all of my BPS reels are really Floooooger reels like yours! They even sound funny like the way people from the north talk!

Any question is a good question. Muffs is slang for a outboard motor flush device. One is shown in the picture below. You put connect this to a water hose, put it over the water inlets on the lower unit of your outboard and turn on the water before you start the motor. This will ensure that water is circulating through the water pump and the engine to keep it cool. This is acceptable for idle speeds only. DO NOT rev the engine because the muffs cannot provide enough water under higher RPMs. You can buy one of these at Walmart for less than $10.

It was a joke. The last Cabelas catalog that I got had only a tiny square for a prodigy reel with no bearing count. I looked at it specifically to compare it to BPS reels. I can't put my hands on it at this moment because I threw it away after I looked at it. If I missed it I am an idiot but the section was tiny compared to what BPS provides for each of their house reels. Ultimately I feel like the Cabelas catalog is from Mars for a Northern customer that may fish for LMB, SMB, Pike, Muskie or something else. The BPS catalog and company seems just right to me and my tastes. Maybe that is because I reside in a southern state and the focus of BPS is LMB. It is just my opinion and that is worth the price paid. Nothing.

Glenn, When you tested the knots on the machine, did each break above the rated line test? Were the lines wet or dry? Will these lines break differently when they are wet? Just wondering because the tests that I saw on knot wars were done on dry line with the Palomar rated as the best beating the uni knot and all others tested. Last year I saw Martins and Ike say that you shouldn't use a Palomar knot with Fluorocarbon lines. I used the improved clinch knot and hated it last year. I finally switched back to the Palomar. I think it will work fine if you lubricate it and tie it correctly. I am not trying to argue, I really am interested in your testing concidering it is different than what I have seen elsewhere.

I fished all last year with Pline 15lb fluorocarbon line. KVD is spot on...It is strong, casts fantastic and the sensitivity is great! It isn't cheap but the bait monkey has convinced me that it is worth the price I don't think the fish can see it. Last summer I took my boys trout fishing at Montawk in Missouri. The night before, I had too many drinks and the porch light on the cabin was far too dim to tie 2lb leaders so I used the 15lb Pline Fluorocarbon as the leader on my son's rod. We were 15 minutes late getting started fishing but my son had his limit of 4 trout in 15 minutes. We were just tight lining powerbait with a split shot. All the other guys were using 2lb mono for their leaders and they got spanked by a 6 year old. The water was gin clear. I know that RW recommends Yo-Zuri Hybrid but that is a copolymer line and NOT a 100% fluorocarbon line. I have not read any studies on copoly lines but I would suspect that their refractive index is not as close to water as pure fluorocarbon line.

I looked at the one on display at Gander Mountain today...... I still want one