Wayne P.

You don't have to use one but to protect your motor and boat wiring you should use it. This site has them in the $10 range http://www.iboats.com/Battery_Electrical/dm/category_id.238352--view_id.238352

The spoon in the video is chrome with a patch of gold tape on the convex size. That is the cheap version. The ones the guide and I were using were air brushed painted with sparkles added. I'll be staying at Lake Fork Marina.

"To bad we were asked to leave the first pond" Does that mean all you guys just went to those locations and fished without asking permission?

I just use the Stren clear/blue fluorescent in 14# or 17#

I used one last May when fishing with a guide at Fork and did quite well with it. I am going to pick up some in a couple of weeks when I am fishing at Fork. I make a similar one using a Dardevle chrome spoon in the 1 oz. size. I remove the hook and split ring and replace it with a #4 Owner dressed treble in white with a size 4 split ring. Then I add a size 4 split ring to the line tie. For color, I use the WTP inc. decorator tape which is kind of reflective with the machining look. On the convex side, I add a 1/4" strip of blue on one edge and a 1/4" strip of chart or green next to it. Then I add a 2" X 1" patch of gold in the center of the concave side. If no local tackle shops have the plain chrome in stock, I just buy a painted one and use the same tape colors plus I add chrome tape to cover the rest of the painted surface. Most of the painted ones are brass so I don't add the gold to the concave side. The spoon is the flutter style not the compact type like Hopkins.

Forget about what the meter shows with the two different settings it is just a relative indication of the charging rate and not the amount of voltage of the battery. If the meter measured the battery condition, it would indicate something when you hook up the leads before you plug in the A/C cord-it doesn't. The most important thing you need is the max amount of amp for charging in the shortest amount of time. When/if it gets to 0 after a few hours, you are OK. That just means that the voltage of the battery has reached the output voltage of the charger and doesn't need to continue charging. From your discription of the battery, I would guess that it's life is ended or almost ended. For long battery life, it has to be kept fully charged at all times and recharged to full charge as soon as possible after a discharge of any amount. If your battery is a "healthy" 100 amp hour size and it is 1/2 discharged, it will take almost 9 hours to recover to full charge with the 6 amp setting. You can triple that time if you set it to 2 amps.

If you want more distance with small baits, use fluorocarbon. That line weighs more than nylon mono and aids in adding distance. Braids have more rod guide drag than the harder surface nylon mono or fluorocarbon lines and won't necessarially give you increased casting distance.

I prefer the action/vibration of the Original Chatterbait since the blade is directly and solidly connected to the jig eye. I don't trust the connection of the Booyah Boogie. The knock offs with the split ring connection absorb too much of the vibration and are not as snag free. The Chatterbait can be fished slower and faster with more vibration than the Gambler Swim Blade. If you want to get the full effect of that style of bait, use it with braid.

nralover, basically I was using the same ole saying most would recommend, "use the lighest line you can get away with". Not knowing what level of expertise you have, I was just giving you a formula to determine what you could get away with.

You will be lucky if the battery will charge at all. BUT, if the fluid level is above all the plates, don't add water until after you charge. Then fill to the split ring level about 1/2" below the battery top. If the plates are dry, you can add some water to cove the plates ( probably won't do any good). Then set your charger to 6 amps and hope for the best. IF you are lucky, the charge meter will be sitting on 0 in the morning. If the meter has dropped to any reading less than what it was when you hooked it up, you may get some run time, but don't go far, you might have to row back. It doesn't matter about the battery caps whether they are off or on.

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You are correct roadwarrior, nralover did only ask about MONO line size for HEAVY COVER with BAITCASTING equipment. I call heavy cover, hydrilla, milfoil, timber, docks, and lilly pads. I prefer braids for both spinning and baitcasting gear so I am covered as far a line strength in all conditions. I certainly wouldn't use or recommend 12# or less mono at Lake Fork on any equipment. I answered within the criteria of the question and didn't interject my opinion concerning any other tackle or line choices.

Whichever hook size of EWG you use, open the bend a little and that will improve your hookups.

Since you have "heavy cover" as the criteria of line size, a good "rule of thumb" is to match the pound test to the length of the fish you may catch. Example 12" fish= 12# line, 20" fish= 20# line. If there is no pound test to match the fish size, choose the next largest pound test.

Since that is not a Chatterbait, which knock-off is it and what size?

There is a yearly subscription required of $99.99 for minimal service and an extra $49.99 for complete functions.

Stren Super Braid: 30# for spinning gear and 50# - 65# for baitcasting.

Lots of large bluegills on beds Monday at Hunting Run Lake.

Trev, thanks for the fishing location advice. I have been fishing Lake Anna for over 30 years and know how and where to successfully catch bass there in all seasons. My point is that some of the best summertime fishing areas seem to be the chosen path of travel by watercraft of any description no mater if another watercraft is already there or not. I or no one else should to be harassed by non-caring, rude water craft operators where ever we choose to fish. If you are not one of those , THANK YOU. Basically, I don't have to and won't go hide in a cove to leave you or anyone else a particular spot to play.

Trev, some of the best summer fishing spots are within sight of the State Park and in the middle of the lake. You are fooling yourself if you think the bass go in the back of some cove to hide from the reckless antics of jet skiers and water skiers. There are no shady or heavy cover areas on the lake. Some of the best times to catch bass in the summer is mid day.

The V hull will be significantly LESS stable with the stated LOAD. You should find out the weight capacity of the boat including batteries, tackle, motor/s and persons to determine the suitability.

What country are they made in?

I have the Lowrance H2O and Navionics software. I also have some of the free download maps from the Lowrance website on another SD card. You have to check the map softwate websites to see if the lakes you are interested in are included. Lowrance Hot Spots and Navionics Hotmaps are the two that work with the H2O and H2Oc. Garmin has that type of hand held device also.

Old idea with new parts. Don't have one and wouldn't buy one. The wire weedguard is a deterrent to the fish as it will stick them in the roof of their mouth when they take it in and they will reject it. It is just like the Snagless Sally and the original Uncle Buck's Buzzer. If you get one, bend about 1/4" of the tip down towards the hook shank to lessen that effect. The wire frame is just a copy of another one made a few years ago using braided steel cable. That one is not in production any more if that gives you a hint.

Simply put, it will be 5 times stronger with no stretch. Anyone that doesn't use all three types of line isn't taking advantage of the properties of each.