nstec

Are you looking at them through the front without wearing them? I have a pair of Green Mirror 580G Fantails and have friends with various Blue/Green Mirror 400G/580G lenses. None of them will have a mirror-like reflection when looking at them through the front while holding them, but all of them will have a mirror-like reflection while on the wearer's face. I would absolutely recommend going to the store and trying on every frame that interests you and then choosing the one that fits you the best. If you want to order them online to get a better price, so be it, but Costas aren't cheap either way and I think it's important to get a pair that fits you well. You really shouldn't have to be consciously pulling them tight to your face, that probably means they're too big. Try and find a frame thats is both all-around comfortable to wear and that forms a good "seal" around your eyes and doesn't let light in around the edges. To me, looks are secondary to those two things. FYI, Costa classifies Hamlins as an "XL" frame and Roosters as an "L" frame. Fantails fit me the best, but they may be too small for you since they are an "M" frame. Whichever store you go to, they'll usually all have a brochure with the sizing information.

Interesting... In a thread earlier this week, @Preytorien specifically said he has had ElaZtech baits melt after dipping them in J.J.'s.

The main senko-style worm I really use is the Strike King Zero, so I usually just call them "Zeros." If I do say it though, I'll naturally pronounce it "sinko." I will concede, however, that it probably should be pronounced "saynco."

I've caught many fish larger than 21/2 - 3 pounds in farm ponds smaller than 20 acres. The particular pond you're talking about may not have bigger fish, but the size of the body of water certainly isn't the limiting factor.

Z-Man plastics in particular are prone to melting in the heat. I personally have only had them melt when I've left them in the truck on summer days - they won't just melt with regular use. I've also heard that they will melt if they come into contact with other soft plastics. You should be fine as long as you store them in their original package and don't leave them in a hot vehicle/boat.

Here you go.

This is because there is normally an ad between the site logo and the account options. When ad blockers block the ad, the logo covers the account options. There was a long period of time where I would've liked to sign up for this forum, but couldn't figure out how to sign up because of the same thing .

Oh, I thought it was coming off as you were casting. If it's coming off in a mess before it's halfway full, it's probably twisting as it's being spooled onto the reel. Make sure you keep an eye it on as your filling it and make sure the line spool and reel spool are oriented correctly with each other. This can be done like I described earlier or you should also be able to do it like @Airbornebass suggested. Whatever you do, just keep an eye on it and if the line is twisting as its going on, stop spooling and correct the issue. That is indeed the way I fill my spinning reels and it's never caused me any issues. It's by no means the only way though. The main thing with any method is just to keep an eye on it and if it starts twisting, stop and fix it.

Make sure you aren't overfilling the spool. Try cutting off the first 10-15 yards of line and then try casting again. What kind of line are you using? Does it seem to have a lot of memory?

It would be easier to help you if you could be more specific about what's going wrong. I'll just describe how I spool a spinning reel from start to finish. First, I run the line down through the tip and all the guides. Then, with the BAIL OPEN, I run the line down to the spool and tie it onto the spool with an arbor knot. Then I close the bail. Next I place a pencil through the center of the line spool and hold the ends of the pencil between my feet as I reel line onto the reel spool. For spinning reels, I always make sure the line is coming off the BOTTOM of the line spool to eliminate line twist. This is the opposite of what I do for baitcasting reels, where I make sure the line is coming off the top of the line spool to eliminate line twist. As with a baitcasting spool, I usually leave a little bit (maybe 1/8") worth of the spool unfilled. Hopefully this helps. If you still have any questions about more specific problems you're having, feel free to ask.

I was originally taught as a child just to close it by reeling, but as I got older I eventually started closing it by hand.

I use a 5.6:1 Tournament MB for crankbaits and really like it. The 5.1:1 BB1 is currently on sale at Tackle Warehouse for the same price as a Tournament MB though.

Were they Bargain Cave deals, or did it look like they marked them all down? I might have to go check out my Cabela's.

They usually give you a summary of the condition on a rod-by-rod basis for the refurbished ones. They'll tell you if they repaired the handle, guides, etc. I'm sure they wouldn't sell one if they knew the blank was damaged, but sometimes a blank can be damaged with no real visible damage. It's hard to say what exactly they would do if a refurbished rod broke soon after purchase, but I'd like to think they'd work something out for you.