TOXIC

Larger stores by in large have more to see. For example, the BPS in Richmond is smaller than the BPS in Hampton and the Hampton store has a bigger tank but the BPS in Richmond has a restaurant attached. But BPS has a "standard" layout so that all of the stores will offer the same destination perks. I'd go to whichever one is the most convenient.

Agree with all above but it really depends on what lure you are going to throw as to what would be the best option.

I work shows in both BPS and Cabela's. I have been in all of the stores mentioned and you have to remember, what gets stocked is not up to the store most of the time. The stores have a standard floorplan and then they get to order in specific baits based on a number of different factors. Sales volume is one of them. Add to that the fact that they only have available what the corporate "Buyers" stock up on and their selection can be slim. I have had baits drop shipped directly from the manufacturer (my sponsor) to a store but it is rare and very tough to get authorized.

Being a Guide and having taught many a new fisherman/woman how to throw a baitcaster, here are some tips and observations. First, the biggest misconception that beginners have is that they need to buy a cheap baitcaster to start out. While your budget of $100 is a fair starting point I would possibly try to find a used more expensive reel at that price. The difference being that the more expensive baitcasters have better components, braking systems and drag systems that actually make them easier to cast. Cheaper reels actually require more skill/experience to throw without backlashing. That is a fact. Second, you need to educate your thumb because that is the #1 anti backlash tool you have. You need to learn how to feel what your line is doing with your thumb on your casting hand. To start out, after you spool your reel, walk out about a cast and a half of line. Go back to your reel and put a small piece of electrical tape across the line on the reel. This will help if you do backlash, you will not fubar a full spool. Then tie a heavy hookless lure on your line and crank down the brakes (both magnetic and anti backlash) to begin. Start with very short casts and as you feel comfortable, start backing off the brakes until you can make a full cast with the heavy lure. When you can cast consistently without backlashing, you can remove the tape and start to experiment with lighter lures. Then you can go to the lake because all of this should be accomplished before you try to do it on the water.

My problem is that my net storage in my boat is right between the seats and if you insert the handle in the net holder, you are constantly walking on it or jumping over it. I have not decided which one I want because I have friends who have both. My options are the RSnets or the Hibernet. The Hibernet head draws back into the handle and can be stored easily in a rod locker or strapped to the front deck just like a rod. The RSNet while not cheap, is top quality and comes in a number of sizes and lengths.

Yep, wind knots from line twist on spinning reels can be just as bad or even worse because the line knots and if it gets cinched too tight, no option other than cut.

In the guide business, we refer to them as "Professional Overruns"

Very expensive and no longer made. That doesn't mean you couldn't have one fabricated but the company that made them is no more.

Needs change. Don't beat yourself up. Weigh your options and get what suits your needs. If it isn't a bassboat then so be it. Way too many factors that are unique to each one of us for anybody but you to make the choice.

Enjoy.

Without knowing what the rating criteria is there's no way to know how to interpret the rankings.

Impaired people on the water. They are a hazard to me and themselves.

When I regularly wade fished a rocky river for smallies, I found that not casting upstream saved a lot of baits and hangups. to the side and retrieve up stream to the spots in eddys where they liked to hang.

Remember, most baitcasters have 3 "adjustment" areas. Magnetic brakes either by an indicator on the side plate or under the side plate, spool tension knob (anti-backlash) and drag. Spool tension and drag usually on the same side and both are friction brakes. I never back them off since I fish year round but do change the settings on all of them just to make sure all moving parts get moved or I'm throwing different weights or baits in differing wind conditions.

Guiding....Every other month all reels got re-spooled. New reels every season. My reputation depended on my equipment.

Don't play with them. Get them in ASAP!! "Fighting" them too long gives them the opportunity to throw the crank. Once hooked, solid constant pressure back to the boat. Any slack or give in the line lets them get the crank flopping. If you truly "hooked" them they can't spit the crank on a tight line. And on edit.....If you horse them too hard, you can rip the hooks out. So there is a happy medium.

Such an important piece of equipment!! Just got done with my annual eye exam and I am holding at my current prescription (same for 4 years) and just turned 60 with no signs of cataracts or eye damage from the multiple hours I spend on the water. I credit that to top notch eyewear. There are no do-overs on your eyes. You only get 1 set, take care of them. Years ago before I fished as much as I do, I wore cheap sunglasses. Then a friend introduced me to Serengeti Drivers as my first pair of quality sunglasses. While guiding I wore Solar Bats with no prescription for years. My eyes were never bad enough that I needed prescription glasses with sunglasses. Then I went to Lake St Clair for 15 years and bed fished for smallmouth. I was not seeing what others were so I decided to try out prescription sunglasses. I was contacted by someone I did shows and seminars with who actually works in the lab and makes the lenses for a lot of brands. Here was his advice to me,,,,,Very few make their own RX lenses. You pay big $$ for frames and the RX lenses are the same, He knows because he makes them and yes, COSTA, Maui Jim, Wiley X, are in that group. One that doesn't is Oakley. If you want RX lenses, the frames have to be sent back to Oakley. Expensive? Very. But one of the best investments I have ever made. I wear them all the time driving, fishing, etc. and wouldn't hesitate to replace them if anything ever went wrong. Also.....NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, get glass lenses for fishing. One bad hookset and you have an eye full of shattered glass. Poly-carbonate always for me.

My local WM is always pretty picked over. I went to a location far from any bodies of water and in a neighborhood where there normally wouldn't be many fishermen and scored a great deal on chatterbaits. Both Strike King and Zman. Filled a plano 3700 with them for $40.

I use Gamakatsu's version a lot but there is one drawback. If you fish heavy grass like I do on the Potomac, the spring keepers will collect more grass and foul a lot more. That is because there are 2 exposed areas to catch grass....the hook eye and the part of the spring clip that attaches to the hook eye. You cannot twist the bait up far enough to cover theses areas. If you go with just an EWG hook, you can cover the hook eye and it is much more weedless.

Within the last year or so. Just make sure someone hasn't bought bulk "Senko-Like" baits and packaged them up as the originals. They could have ordered the 100 count bags before GYCB stopped that packaging as well. If you want, I can take a pic of what the factory 100 count bags look like.

The trick to getting a Senko to last multiple fish is all in the rigging accuracy and the hook if you are Texas rigging it. My record for 1 Senko was 15 hard fighting smallmouth. Use a thin wire hook, make sure the "head" of the Senko covers the hook eye very close to the ling (but not any more or the line movement will cut the bait) and make sure when you skin hook the bait it is is as close to perfectly straight as you can get it. Pulled too tight and it will rip the head of the bait back off the hook and too loose will push it up and line will cut it. Take a look at SKip Gap hooks as well.

Don't forget turtles. Baby turtles.

Relax and don't let it get into your head. I call bad days "dues paying days". Your account must be getting close to paid in full!!

GYCB stopped production of the 100 ct bags. They are not available in "bulk" as in loose packaging, they do not sell unpackaged which is where the bulk retailers get theirs. They also do not package for anyone else like most plastic manufacturers do so you get the same bait from different companies at different prices. Your best bet would be to call them in Page, AZ directly and if you get enough friends to go together, they may cut you a deal. I know the minimum order for a custom color is 500.

And that's called a "reaction bite" where you are appealing to the instinctive part of the bass' brain and they strike out of instinct.