mheichelbech

Meant to say *** pound bass with occasional larger ones. Btw, I recognize the $150 limit probably throws me out of the custom made budget but was hoping maybe someone would have a used one or something. If custom not an option would appreciate any suggestions in the retail market. thanks again!

Beginning to think I may need a custom rod but also not wanting to spend over $150....looking for an all around rod that I can throw light baits (using a chronarch mgxl) 1/8 oz to 3/8, worms, tubes, finesse jigs, floating worms and maybe jerkbaits. I'd like a soft tip to help with skipping but also need to be able lift bass out of tight places. im tournament fishing and catching mainly *** pound bass around and behind docks. Accuracy is key as well. any suggestions would be appreciated! Happy to buy a used or or older rod as well. My main thing is a soft or somewhat whipped tip. Something in between a crankbait rod and pitching rod. thanks for input!

Watched this for the first time yesterday. Love how they went in depth with the top guys on how they fished and what they used. Is a great show. Love to see something like this done for the whitetail hunting shows.

Cabelas Rainy River jacket at $129. I've had mine about 20 years and still great. It is gore Tex. Amazingly warm and not too hot for the weight of it.

Thanks!

Anyone know where I can buy Super Pork? They make or did make big trailers. thanks.

Depending on depth the fish are holding under the docks, if try paralleling with manns baby minus one or other square bill for deeper if necessary. I always like dropping a tube around the fronts and let them spiral down to the bottom, another good one for me is a spider grub fished veritically and swim it parallel. Finally, spinnerbaits parallel...try various sized blades to match the bait or large blades 5/6 for larger fish. Love to parallels a dock with a spinnerbait and then do a quick turn around the front edge. Boat position is critical on docks and I have seldom if ever caught a fish on a dock that I hit with my lure on the cast.

Are you sure that is 50% on Loomis? Looks like 15%.

Was considering some custom poured tubes, craws, etc. Am curious as to whether or not those of you have who tried it, actually experienced greater success rates versus the standard store baits such as strike king, powerbaits, etc.

Is it imperative that the tail be facing downward? I bought a pack and the lighter part of the bait would be on top for the tail to be downward. Most all baits I know of the lighter part of the bait would be on bottom. this is with a buckeye su-spin blade jig head.

Very similar. 3/16th is really my favorite weight to fish although I always let tactics and conditions determine the weight I am using. I remember watching a show with KVD where he talks about using heavier weights around socks to trigger more bites on a faster dropping tube.

I have been out of the serious bass fishing scene for several years. 20 years ago I fished a lot of tourneys with moderate success. One of the big changes I have seen since then is the move to heavier baits. I can understand this for punching matted weeds and big swimbaits but even heavy jigs (heavy to me is more than 3/8), seem to be used a lot more. Am am I missing out on something by not going to heavier style baits if my primary fishing is shallower water, boat docks and visible cover with maybe some creek channel and river structure thrown in?

I had bought 50# braid for flipping/pitching, would they be too heavy for any reason? I had always just used Big Game before so this will be my first year using braid really. Also it seems that on the pro fishing shows I see now it seems like none of them are using mono anymore. Seems to be either braid or flouro. Is there a flouro brand out now that is as manageable as mono?

Thanks and I thought there might be some differing opinions.

Recommend some kind of glue, fishing glue or super glue to hold them on. Makes a big difference and helps prolong the usability of the bait. Doe anyone ever use any kind of stinger hook setup?

I primarily fish the Ohio River and its tributaries. Big bass would be in the 3-5 pound range with high numbers of spotted bass in the 1-2 pound range. Water is typically semi-clear/stained to muddy so line visibility is typically not an issue. I do fish a lot of docks in close quarters and frequently am hauling a bass over a dock to the boat. Primary success is with manns baby minus ones and spinnerbaits and also tubes and jigs (flipping/pitching). Just curious what line recommendations anyone would have for the 5 outfits I have which are: - pitching/flipping rod with chronarch mg -- crank bait rod with chronarch - spinnerbait rod with scorpion - all around rod with curator 70 xg, usually floating worms and 4 inch worms - spinning reel (Stradic) with a med power rod Any advice appreciated!

I think I wasn't clear in my question. I am familiar with colors and differing water and sun situations. my question was more about how much of a chance will you give a new bait or color before discard it as not being a producer for you?

How or when do you decide a certain Kure or color just doesn't work for you? I have about every color made of the baby minus ones but some colors, particularly the translucent ones or actually translucent in any other crankbait, I just don't have much confidence in but I also wonder if it is because I don't give them enough of a chance under the right conditions for that color...and with regard to other lures it's the same thing..no confidence but don't give them enough of a chance to develop confidence either... Anyone else run into this issue?

Agree that Baby Minus 1 seems to be a cheaply produced bait...I always replace the trebles except those that come with the triple grips (elites as noted I think). I have best best luck on grey ghost on cloudy days in semi-clear to clear water and the shiny shad color (not sure name) on sunny days. Stained to muddy water black/chart and the red and orange bait has been really good. Only colors I hadn't had much luck on are the translucent colors but I haven't given them much of a chance either.

Love his show. Kind of reminds me of Bill Dance.

A lot of times while deer hunting and it's slow, I visualize what the various structure (draws, benches, flats (not usually exactly flat), creek bends, etc. would look like under water tree hike fishing. Has been helpful however, I still am not at all confident fishing offshore. The visualization of while hunting has been helpful though.

What dictates using lighter versus heavier tackle? Is it mainly the cover, water clarity? Both of those? Do finicky fish hit a heavier set up than a light line set up assuming the water isn't crystal clear?

Is the main reason for the light line that you are drop shotting in clear water? Does 12 or 15# line affect the action of great bait on a dropshot?

The best flipping jig will be the one you have the most confidence in. I totally ageee about wire tied skirts. Many of mine with the little rubber band or surgical tubing, whatever it is, are dry rotting and breaking. Gonna have to retire them. I am sure the Seibert jigs will catch bass as well or better than any others. Also, I like jigs with and without rattles. Some days it matters a lot. Btw, the best way to get good at jig fishing is to start out using. A 14 foot jigging pole. Amazing what a difference it makes in catching fish.

That was 15 years ago! Lol...took a break to raise kids. Jumping back in again.