fish'n Jim

The living rubber material doesn't last like the newer silicone but some feel it has better action and it tends to be duller/not as shiny(if you don't put scent on it). But the color palette is more limited. That's all we had back in the day, and I personally prefer the newer stuff, it gives possibility of more variation. I still have a lot of old bulk rubber material that I'll never use. So only buy what you need, or enough to experiment, it gets tempting to "save money" and buy in bulk. But unless your feeding the snags with light line, you shouldn't loose many jigs. They usually go bad from hook, paint, or skirt damage more than loss, once you learn to fish properly. I recycle the ones with good hooks. Every so often the fads switch back to the past. The fish are shorter lived and haven't seen it in their generation, so they are susceptible for a while.

I wouldn't leave the old skirt collar on, after you tie over it. Then tend to degrade fast and get mushy faster than the silicone skirts especially if you use any scent products. Whipfinish like a fly. Or you can buy new skirt collars, and redo. Take skirt off in tact. Take a pair of split ring pliers, put a collar on and expand and grab behind old collar on one side and roll off then pull the skirt through on one side. Adjust position.

If you're having loose hooks and keepers, it may not be from the sprue removal, but you're not getting good coverage in the mold. This can be from mold too cold to lead too hot. Technically, there's surface tension and lead doesn't "wet" the metal, much like soldering copper, if it's not clean it doesn't "tin" and the solder rolls off. This can gets worse if you reuse hooks from previous bad pours. Oxide or combustion products builds up on surface. Regular, non gold, hooks are coated with lacquer. Make sure your mold is clean inside. I'd heat the mold first, if you don't have an small craft oven(don't use anything for food), what I do is run a couple fills without hooks and then cut back the heat on the pot to just keep it molten (from wide open during melting). Make sure you dross off the pot occasionally, I stir it first to dislodge oxides. Should be shiny on top, if it gets bluish it's too hot. Always heat wear gloves when pouring.

Frankly, there's nothing out there that's as good as the old 7'6" Fenwick HMG 2 piece sticks. If anyone knows of a side by side comparable flippin blank speak up, but I've searched for years. It's all in the tip and that's where they fall down. I've bought many off the shelf and nothing there either. I know some like the Loomis or other light weights but I'm not a fan of the open/partial handles. These sticks are made for power fishing and need to hold up when you have 30# mono or 60# braid on big fish. I don't think light weight or shorter rod is the way to go for those reasons.

Start with what # test line your going to use. Then how long you want it? one or two piece. (I'm assuming your talking spinning) 6-7' is the norm. Then the action; med to fast action is preferable. Depends on how you fish them and what you like. I'd go more parabolic(med) if the line is very light, but faster if need more back bone and heavier line. I use 10# fluoro and 8-10# fluoro leader. That will determine the blank specs. Then you match those against what the manufacturers offer. Always go with the lightest strongest blank. They cost more but last and feel better. As far a real seats, stay with a quality manufacturer, since it has to last the life of the rod. I prefer screwlock style over rings. Handles; many options here. I'm an oversize cork man myself. Most of my rods will float. No sense leaving them on the bottom, if you don't have too. A $200+ custom rod and a $150-300 reel is no cheap outfit. Can be many hours to dredge one up, not a tournament friendly operation. ps: Personally, I use a 6' Fenwick boron rod that I made for walleye, talk about no longer available, but it's priceless. You can feel 'em breathing on it. I bought a spare blank after realizing how good these were, and this is the last one, wish I'd bought more. They just were too pricey compared to the graphites of the day, didn't catch on/sell, but still cheaper than what's out there now and out perform.

These are all gone.

In the spirit of New Years, out with the old, I decided to clean out the rest of my 50+ year stash of fishn mags. I have these small by-monthly booklets from 1982 to 2004, mostly complete. I can send by decades(80s,90s,00s), or all, if anyone is interested. Lots of thread art and how too in these. Dick French and Cam Clark were contributors, then took over. This organization was founded by Dale Clemons, the godfather of custom rod building, wrote the books, and continued past his death. I attended the auction when they closed his store, which I ordered form and visited, and still have parts I'll never use. If interested, reply with address or send email, fishn.jim2@gmail.com. ps: the rest will be going to the recycle tomorrow, so if you have any requests... Some of these are out of print. You'd have to pay the post on those, they're too heavy.

FYI -> You remove a super glued top the same way you remove one with hot melt. Give it a little heat (butane lighter) with light pressure holding with pliers and the glues melts and it pops right off. No damage. It's a great thing to carry on the boat, for those on water, rod tip accidents. I carry spare tips. Been doing this a long time and I've got rods that are old now with several tip replacements. No problem. It's a lot better, faster, and less messy than those little short pieces of hot melt that you burn your fingers with. I use "rod builders" brand epoxy and finish. It's too difficult to find (Devcon, et al) slow cure epoxy at the hardware these days. I used to be able to go get a fresh package anywhere/time, but I've searched the area and none. Even the hobby stores don't carry it. It's all 5 or 1 minute now, not enough pot time there for a handle. So I buy in larger size and keep in the freezer. Thaw it out before use and keep sealed. But it's $4 / ounce and climbing. I don't do many rods any more to buy larger. I'd not be doing this one, if the blank wasn't defective on the one I built last April. Thanks to all, I'll look up some of these glue suggestions and makes some tests.

I've been using slow cure epoxy for as long as I've been making rods for gluing cork, etc. It's getting harder to get, and it's now about $4 per ounce. Most over the counter is fast cure, which leaves insufficient time to assemble. I have decades of good performance out of slow cure epoxy. It fills well and turns without chipping. I'd not easily switch without some good evidence. But there's a bunch of new glues out that seem to perform well in a variety of services. I switched to gel super glue for the tip tops after it came out. So my questions is, what glues are other rod makers using for handles, etc., if not epoxy?

There's arsenic and antimony in some of the hard lead, so be extra careful, if you use. Zinc can also be toxic but body needs traces for cell function. Plumbophobia has cost USA dearly. We can thank the GOVT and EPA for all that. The last lead mine shut down a few years ago and no smelting in the USA. So if it's getting tight now, it'll get tighter. They've just about regulated out battery recycling in the US. If you use industrially, you have a 30 year OSHA monitoring requirement, even if you shutdown. Now they(media) got everyone sensitive to ppbs of it, so it's not likely to reverse. FDA allows ppm in some things, go figure? We can't live without it. If you want solar energy or drive a car, today, you have to have some lead acid storage batteries. 50 years from now they'll be complaining about all the tungsten and other substitutes in use now. So long as the public remains uneducated about science, it'll continue.

I don't mean to suggest not to custom paint, but want to make a point. If you look back at the early era baits, they were very simply colored, like red or black head with white body, all black or green, or frog, etc and they still would catch fish. Still do. Some of the look good enough to eat are more for the artist fishermen than the fish. 4-5 decades ago, I had a lazy ike, that the bass wore the paint off, and I sanded and painted it with red primer, and it still caught fish. So go figure? I still have that one somewhere. FYI: www.bagleybaits.com Bagley is producing baits again but not the full line. I've purchased some B's, I was out of, which are really simple, chartreuse with a black back, but at certain times... Especially on tidal but good anywhere. I know of no fresh water fish that color. I don't recall them ever making a foil bluegill pattern. Foil was more a Rapala invention. Bagley's were fairly simple color schemes as well. One of the first to use chartreuse and blue, if I recall correctly. I have some original DB3 and 2 that are plain "ghost" silver, that I'd fight over, if it ever came to that. So they don't have to be fancy to catch fish. I have some other that were factory painted to look like a fish and never caught much on them. They did dabble with real photo finish shad and they were good looking baits, especially in the large striper sizes. I still have one or two, but lost the best tail spinner ones. I asked and there were no plans to make any. Jim Bagley was a crankbait innovator par excellence.

I think you're referring to what causes the most vibration up the rod, and that isn't a parameter that I'd necessarily recommend you solely go by. That also depends on the rod/line size/type, how much line is out, etc. I think it's best to "play around" with various configurations, as you have with commercial baits, until you find ones that actually catch fish and learn what causes it. You can invest a lot of time and not get anywhere, as well, depending on your skill level. You might have to trade a little "vibration" for wires that don't bend up or break when you fight a fish. Also, if they're too soft, they'll not deflect off cover and hang up more. Can even affect hook up if the wire is too soft or long and blades get in the way. So there's other factors to effectiveness. To each his own, regional preferences too. eg; I can take a SPBT and change the skirt and make it more effective regardless of the vibration or blades. It's also how you fish them. It's not strictly a chunk and wind vibrating type of lure like a trap, per se. The flash and retrieve will affect the effectiveness. The water clarity, depth, and temperature will also play a role in choice. It's also what specie you're after and what stage they're in. SMB react a bit different to them than LMB and spots are someplace else... But once you have one that catches, it'll catch anywhere, N to S. Like inline spinners, it seems they don't get the respect they used to these days. I've got a "near perfect" SPBT tied on all the time in my rod box. They're not just a search bait, but a numbers bait that'll catch giants too.

Sorry, this is late but you said insert in your post, not guide as I recall. If the feet came out of the wrappings, then the threads had to break or feet deformed, so glue won't hold them very well. I'd replace the guide and re-wrap. I was specifically addressing what to do when the ceramic insert comes out.

If you're talking about the ring, yes, a touch of super glue will hold it just fine. Make sure the frame is not bent first. That'll stress the ring as cause it to break. Clean any glue overrun off the inside of the ring as it'll catch/wear the line. Gel is better in that regard. Some guide have tabs that touch the ring, some are fully concentric. If the frame is bent and can't be straightened, then change the guide or have changed. I had one old Fuji come out last week, after about 20 years, and I carry glue in the boat for this, but all my tubes were dried/setup. But I fixed it a home and restocked the boat. I've switched to all SiC guides for that reason, they're formed on the ring so won't come off and last much longer, worth the extra cost. If you can't afford all SiC, then at least use for the tip top. It's annoying when they give you a warranty then want to replace with the same defective item. They should refund your money, if you prefer it.

You might try a slower reducer. An airbrush has a large relative air volume so the "fast" reducer maybe flashing out and leaving the paint. You might also be in too close and getting splashback/overspray on the tip. Always test spray to make sure the gun is working right before applying. That'll tell you if the reducer level is right for the humidity and temperature, guns clean, etc.

Looks like that link is bad, so I searched it and although I can't seem to find any instructions, I gleaned enough info from the web. I guess I'm getting old and forgot about that one. I remember when it came out but I thought they went out of business. I have a set of old Hilts arkie jig molds laying around the garage. I didn't like them. I couldn't get the online store to work, so may have to call them. Actually less $ than the DoIt blank I bought but not sure how fresh the link is I was on, it referenced "New for 2005". I might roll the dice and see how it works, but see it as a stop gap. I can see some issues with the wire and hook coming out the side depending on it's frame size but if works for a lead jig should be OK. Thanks. By the way, I found these people. They make custom molds from DoIt blanks. I'll have to call for pricing. http://www.pouritmold.com/

It's not a jig, but a buzzbait head. I'm a retired engineering manager, so I know the how, costs, software, etc. but do not have access anymore. I thought of this many times, since they went out of business but never pulled the trigger til recently. I'd just bought some other new to market ones, and they weren't very good, so I rekindled this project. Now, I'm reconsidering - again, but one step closer. Thanks for the "by hand is not an option" response. Needs a master engraver's skill. I don't know if this is anything a production shop would want to do, without a large mark up. Cost per is not a factor since I had no intention on selling. That's what I was seeking. What others' experience is with this. I have old heads to use for 3D scan but it's probably cheaper and easier to redesign in solidworks, or other 3D CAD software. There's probably minor improvements but I spent several years in buzzbait testing and wasn't able to improve on this one much. Simple is best. I've still got a small supply, but down to my last ones of the large size, and I'm refurbishing the used smalls to extend it. But once the large ones are gone, it's too late. So it's now or never. ps: I made some other buzzbaits for a guy, and the hand work was cost prohibitive and I didn't see any advantage with that design. Everything else I've used, over 30-40 years since buzzbaits came out, is not as good, in my opinion.

Has anyone taken a blank DoIt mold(large) and had converted for pouring heads? I bought one*, thinking I'd copy some heads that are no longer available, since the stuff out there is not worth buying. I just wasted $25 on two baits that do not perform. The more I get into it, I'm thinking I need to have the heads digitized and the mold cavities CNC machined. Before I go getting quotes I wanted some ideas, if that route is worth it? I didn't plan on selling these, just offering to friends. I still have some NOS baits so not urgent. It's critical to the bait to run straight that the lead head be of the right shape and symmetric. The guy that made these died and they sold his company but those guys went out of business and that was a few decades ago. I was going to do by hand but the mold doesn't come with the hook slot and normal orientation makes it very difficult to get the sides even. Doesn't look like I can make correctly, as I thought, if I change the orientation to make it much easier to shave out by hand. Ps:I was going to do this back in the early '80s for another lure, but was able to modify my existing mold to accept the specially bent hooks I'd made. Today those style hooks are available commercially. Funny how those things happen. We all kinda think alike in the end. I also made a prototype device and had it working and they changed the design of the reels where it wasn't going to work. I shelved that one. Maybe this is #2. * - they've gotten quite expensive. I remember they were a few dollars more back in the day, but more like 2X now.

http://csipaint.com/instructions/techniques-instructions/how-to-use-pro-tec-powder-paints.php Nylon melts over 500F, and the weed guard end survives the molten lead at >600F so the powder process should not affect the weed guard if done properly. I used to use a oven but use a heat gun now, its quicker. Set the jig over the slotted adapter head and allow to warm for a few seconds. Then powder coat. Once the powder melts and glosses you're good to go. If you want to cure out, it's 350F for 15 min but you can go longer at lower temps.

It's too long and wordy in my opinion, you lose track about one third in. Too extemporaneous. Tell them what you're going to tell them, tell them, then repeat what you told them is the best presentation advice I ever got. Helps organize your thoughts as well, for slides, etc. Work from an outline. Plus repetition drives home the message. You should get a transcript and count the number of words/times you said certain things, and weigh if it's overkill or necessary. "$200" for instance. That's about all I took away, as others, from this. I don't think anyone has successfully made the argument for custom rods in the ~50 years, I've been doing rods, so don't feel bad.

My first was a simple homemade wood one that I clamped to a table, that used screw eyes covered with tape for the rod holder and it worked OK until I started doing a lot of multicolor thread work. So you don't even have to buy anything, if you can cut a few pieces of scrap and hammer a few nails, if you're not making a lot. I bought a manual adjustable wood one in the 80's (can't remember the name - but still have and would sell cheap, if interested). It was nice in that you could leave in the middle of a wrap and keep tension until you returned. But I recommend covering your work to keep the dust off. Then I bought a power wrapper from Clemen's back in the day and still use it. I modified a sewing machine cabinet to house the parts when not in use and use the adjustable rubber footed rollers for all the tasks like turning, layout, etc. I don't think I'd go back to manual after using power for so long, but I understand, if you only build one or two a year, it's a cost factor. Not sure the news ones are any good. I've slowed up, because you can get quality rods off the shelf, which was a problem in the '60-'90s period but as my old specialty rods need replaced, I just crank out a new one. I just made a new one piece 7' spinnerbait rod. I'm not that familiar with what's out there today and some of the places I've dealt with recently aren't knowledgeable about product, so be careful, especially with internet buys. I have a cheapo wood lathe I do all my cork turning on. One of those Chinese wholesale outlet types. I bought a 1" Jacobs drill chuck for it. It's a pain to store, so act accordingly. I still use my old Clemen's internal vise, just put on new orings and it goes.

Someone wanted info before I went and I don't know where that post was to circle back, but we got 3 good days in before the front of the century chased us out (week after easter). It's been 17 years since I fished the ponds, and the asian carp were a real bummer. But you had to fish past them and focus on the bass because there was nothing you could do about them. Eddy creek was full of literally tons of dead carp. I understand they had another big kill (Ky side) after we left. Nature is evening out the field so to speak. We found LMB in the LBL cuts with drainages. The fish positioned depending on the water temperature. With all the influx, some cuts were very cold and you had to move to the front/lake mouth. So every day was a change up/adjustment. I didn't see any signs of a spawn in progress, the big females we caught had eggs. The water was in the mid upper 60s. Chatterbaits, lizards - big and small, and senkos produced best back in the flooded goldenrod. Spinnerbaits and lizard worked if they were chasing shad out front. Other fish came off docks or shallow structure. SMB were in about 8-10', but not targetted.

Nothing succeeds like success. It's a constant effort to get to the top and then an even harder one to stay there. It's also a numbers/probability game, so the odds of winning are steep, so you can;t get bummed out. You have to constantly be in the hunt and eventually, with the right moves, you break through. Your options are what you entertain. Maybe it's time for a change, new ride, if things don't meet your expectations. A good "expectations" discussion with your partner is in order. I think it's 80% mental and 80% of the field really has no chance because they don't have the right approach. Since you doubt your methods, you're vulnerable to mental let down. Most either aren't prepared, fish last weeks fish, only they're favorite technique, or just don't have it. Wishful fishing so to speak. After you recognize that, you only have to compete against 20% of the field. Same applies to the water. you don't have to fish it all, just the right areas. We call that the money shots. You must maximize the casts that catch fish. First, study the maps for bottom contours and structure they'll use for seasonal migrations. Gather info from tournament wins, reports, etc. Temperature is a key variable in seasonal understanding. Then, on the water, monitor areas with sonar. The new units can distinguish very well, compared to what we had starting off with flashers. Then, work out a milk run plan, based on pretournament practice, and go to these key areas that have fish on them, if none on that day, move on or come back later. Smallies are depth oriented, eg; if they're shallow, then run that depth all day. Last year I was on Champlain in July, they sat in 6 ft, and you could catch all you want in all sizes at that depth. No need to do anything else. Just troll around sitting in 7-8 ft and casting to rocks, grass line, etc. If I fished in 10', I was not putting my bait in the right spots to get bit. Other times, I've had to pick them off one at at time in 15-20'. Observe other boats and what they're doing/where they frequent for clues. Sometimes, the big waters will get roiled up and fish will suspend or move, and not relate to bottom, then it's hit or miss and drifting maybe a better plan. Water and fish can move many miles after a storm, etc, so it's here today, there tomorrow, on big water. But some areas will hold them mostly.

I used to think like that and always pride myself on maintaining and buying top quality batteries. But last week, I charged up(onboard), and went to the lake the next morning and ran the trim to take off the motormate. When I put in, it went "click". Battery went bad, I used it the week before OK. This (battery plus duracell) battery was only 2+ years old. I bought one of those lithium power supplies at the Classic and never used it, but it saved me three times that day. I'm not sure what the brand name is, but its the same guys that make the lithium TM batteries. I recharge it twice a year, and it's three + years old now. Can power your phone or other devices. I run one of those switches that charges the TM batteries after the starter is up. You can use for days without recharge. But I always top up. I carry jumper cables from my tournament days, as you can almost always jump off the troll motor batts or someone on the water. I was only ever completely dead once in 30+ years going to weigh in. A battery can get so low/bad cell it won't jump. That was on the Chesapeake Bay and no one around. I had to get towed. I wonder now if this device would have prevented?

Silicone rubber skirt material is available from most of the major suppliers, like Netcraft or Barlow, etc.