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FrnkNsteen

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Everything posted by FrnkNsteen

  1. I have to agree that the reel isn't critical when fishing spinnerbaits. What is important is feeling comfortable with the setup and being able to comfortably hit the right speed with a given spinnerbait. I have always liked spinnerbait fishing and my two biggest bass have come on spinnerbaits. Both were on big slow rolled colorado blades around timber and stumps. I have a few different setups for spinnerbaits at the moment. My current favorite is a colorado blade slow roller setup is using an old Daiwa TDZ US Trail 100ML 5.7:1 reel that I love for slow rolling those big thumping spinnerbaits. Willow bladed baits get a faster 6 or 7 speed reel depending on size, weight, and how I want them to run. Most of my spinnerbait rods are MH in either Fast or Moderate Fast. I like a little slower rod with a good backbone,.... Like a Dobyns Sierra 734 for example. Love that rod for swimjigs and spinnerbaits!! I love a good spinnerbait bite!!
  2. Oh, wow! We're up there all the time. Especially the cruise-in on Friday nights by Steak & Shake! Small world!!
  3. What part of Indiana? I'm just west of Bloomington in Spencer
  4. Is that where the OP is from? I didn't take time to look. That's where I'm at to, but I'm originally fr9m up in MN. If I remember correctly, it isn't allowed up there.
  5. Not trying to be a downer, but you better check your local regulations!! I know a lot of states have regulations against using gamefish for bait. Hate to see you get yourself in trouble!
  6. Agreed. People always seem to want the best and most free bearings, but then the conversation turns to who has the best braking to control the spool. I've upgraded one set of bearings to Hedgehog Air bearings and will admit that they spin pretty free. Then I set my brakes as needed and go on fishing ? It begs the question of why we need faster bearings if we are already needing brakes to control the spool? Or in other words.... If I am already using brakes to help control the spool, why do I need to free up the spool even more? I've found in most instances, a good clean and relube does wonders. The one reel I did upgrade was one I landed on when I fell in the boat once. It was a Tatula CT Type R that I really liked. Already had repairs to do after landing on it so I also decided to upgrade the bearings while working on it. It was nice, but I haven't done it again.
  7. I don't recognize most of those, but I have caught TONS of fish off tubes and Zoom Centipedes!!! My favorites are Powerbait or Mizmo tubes and the Green Pumpkin (brown) Centipedes. I rig the centipedes on a small 1/16oz texas rig with a small baitkeeper hook. I think it similates those thick brown millipedes that curl up when you touch them. They also work as a really flimsy wacky rig.
  8. I keep mine at an angle as well, mainly so I can watch the tip and feel the blade working. If it stops vibrating or goes slack, I reel down and get ready to set the hook.
  9. A friend of mine put it on his Lews Wynn Grip rods (Mach Series) that started peeling. I'm not a fan. I prefer cork, but he likes them a lot!
  10. U40 here too! Every cork handled rod I have it has been done.
  11. Personally,... I like the one in the middle between the two,.... SLX MGL would be my choice,... And has been. I've got SLX, SLX MGL, and SLX DC. I'd choose the MGL.
  12. I started using them as I carried more and more rods in the rod locker and got tired of them getting tangled in each other. I use the ones from Academy that sell for $4.99 a piece. Cheap investment to protect rods costing $100 - $300. I bought solid colored ones for the shorter rods and shortened them to fit without catching the lures. Striped covers go on rods longer than 7'. That way I don't keep track of which goes on which. Just solid colirs ob rods under 7' and striped on rods over 7'. Only takes a few minutes to load them back on at the end of the day. If someone chooses to tear up their tools and not take care of them, that's their choice, but I've learned over the years to taje care of my investments. I do that too on my more expensive reels or ones that are known to scratch easily like my older Daiwa TDZ's and TD Fuegos. They are pretty cheap at TW and fit left hand reels nicely!
  13. Just don't get stuck by them,... Braid trick doesn't snatch those out as easily!!!
  14. Good advice. Powerbait is all about taste and getting the fish to hang on longer. They are now loading all the jig and spinnerbait skirts with it.
  15. I personally like Daiwa and Shimano reels, but if looking for a small reel, I would add the Lews SLP and LFS reels to the mix listed above. I like my SLX and Curado MGL reels, the Daiwa Alphas, but the Lews Custom SLP and Tourn MB LFS reels are small and compact too.
  16. Normally, I don't peg my texes rigs, but occasionally. Lately, I've tried something a little different and put a rubber bobber stopper above and below my weight so I can either keep it pegged to the worm, slide up the upper stopper to let it move, or slide both up to keep it held up off the hook for a splitshot style setup
  17. I have. I did it on two of the LFS models I had. Don't know that it was a huge improvement, but didn't cost much to try it. Seemed a little smoother, but didn't keep them ling enough to really test. Ended up giving them to some coworkers to use. I got them from a vendor called HPRBearings on the big auction site.
  18. Since this old thread is already revived, I'll bite.... My most recent pickup that fits this catagory is a Ark Catalyzer. I think regular price is around $59.99. I hear of a couple places doing 3 for $100. Nice light rod that feels pretty good to me. Haven't had a chance to do anything but cast around the yard with it, but I like what I've seen so far!
  19. Wow! Zoom for me too! ?
  20. It wasn't all that long ago a 6' rod was pretty common. It could be used for about anything, but the first thin that comes to mind is a topwater popper walking baut, or jerkbait rod
  21. I don't have a older Curado70,... Mine is the newer 71 MGL. The SLX 71 MGL seems a touch smaller in the hand than the Curado 71 MGL, but difference is not significant.
  22. I have to agree with Tom. I bought an SLX 71 MGL and liked it a lot! Nice reel! Figured if I liked that so much, I should try the Curado 71 MGL. I liked the Curado, but can't honestly say it was really worth the extra money. I have since picked up a couple more used SLX 71 MGLs from ALF and haven't bought another Curado MGL. Edit,... Forgot to say I have my 3 SLX MGLs on rods with a light 1/4oz topwater popper (Chugbug), a jerkbait, and the third is on and old 6' Fenwick Venture rod throwing walking baits. I can throw anything from a zara puppy to a full sized spook on that setup. It palms nicely on that rod and works awesome for walking!! Probably didn't need an MGL on that spook rod, but I tried it and it just felt right and works beautifully!
  23. Most rods give you a suggested lure weight range, so it wouldn't just be 1/4oz. Typically 1/4 - 3/4oz for a mediym action or 3/8 - 1 oz for a medium heavy. I suggest starting with a lure in the middle of the range, so if it is the 1/4 - 3/4 range, start with a 1/2 lure. Keep in mind that is the whole lure weight, so think 1/4 weigbt with a 1/4 oz worm, or a 3/8 oz jig with a 1/8 oz craw trailer. Lure ranges on rods are not standardized, but are a suggestion. Picking the middle of the range is usually a pretty good starting point.
  24. Good advice from everyone, including the ones saying not to worry about it so much and just use what works. The only thing I can add is start with your brakes set a little heavier than normal. If the reel has a magnetic brake, start with it on the max and slowly lower it as you get the feel for it. If it has centrifugal brakes, start with 1/2 to 3/4 of them turned on and back it down from there as you improve. Even if you are getting short casts. Learn the mechanics of casting a baitcaster, then loosen it up for more distance later!
  25. ^^This^^

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