Boomstick

My rods are pretty much Daiwa Tatula (mostly moving bait rods), Daiwa Tatula Elite (dropshot and plastics) and I have a Daiwa Steez AGS (jigs) and a St Croix Mojo Bass in the mix there as well (because the first gen Tatula lineup did not have a rod similar in power and action tot he 6'8" M/XF topwater rod which is perfect for things like poppers and jerkbaits). I wouldn't change anything if I had to do it again. Between the rods that you listed, I would go with the Dobyns Fury. Why the Fury? Because the Dobyns power and action is very consistent line to line. If you wanted to step up to a Sierra for a rod you use a lot, like the 703C or 704C (which is a versatile two rod combo) you could. Or the Champion XP 744C which is an extra fast and stiffer tip designed for jigs (but that's fairly unique). I would be inclined to spend a little more on rods you would use to structure fish things like various finesse, t-rigs and jigs than I would on a crankbait or even a flipping stick (unless you have a lot of weeds and flipping is your go to).

A lot of times I've gone down to 2-3 rods and focused on primarily one presentation in each situation I'm fishing in. Sometimes I'll skip the deep spot to target weedlines or target laydowns. Sometimes this makes sense, especially on larger lakes where I would often go out with 5 rods in back and one or two up front. Since I am in a kayak, it takes enough time to move spot to spot anyway.

I'm in a kayak, but what I usually try to do is scout the area with my side imaging first and then fish it. If the weedline is near the shore, that gives me a general marker and I can usually operate from memory. I also have a pretty good inherit sense of direction, which comes in handy with situations like these. If it's in the middle with no real visible markers then I may need to add some waypoints.

Shimano vs Daiwa, Fender vs Gibson, Ford vs Chevrolet, McDonalds vs Burger King, Nike vs Under Armor. Coca Cola vs Pepsi... Basically, Shimano vs Daiwa is like the Ford vs Chevy of the fishing industry, except neither one of them is garbage (both are very good actually). In short, I like Daiwa for skipping and pitching better and Shimano for distance casting although my reels are largely all Daiwas.

I haven't had bad luck with memory with Sufix Siege, but I usually use 10#, 12# or 14#. Throw on KVD occasionally and that helps.

Tonight's info for those not on the email: https://us02web.zoom.us/j/83201032249?pwd=RTVZU015dU1aNnhWMWNsWjkwZDZBUT09 Meeting ID: 832 0103 2249 Passcode: 762218

I believe what he means by slack in the line is just this.. if you point your rod tip down and reel up the slack, then stop reeling and lower it a little more, you have indefinitely more hooksetting power. So it's only an inch or two of slack max just to give the bait a running start for more power. Here's an analogy, ever get your jig stuck in a decent sized branch, not too big to pick up but something you're going to have to work a bit to get back? Next time you do, try that and the branch will get a running start and come right at you. That said, there have been times where I have gotten them in on 15# fluorocarbon or less on a MH rod by reeling up my slack and setting the hook as well. Then I wouldn't be surprised if you simply aren't used to the massive powerful hookset you use on jigs. A lot of the lighter baits with light wire hooks, you can basically lift up to set the hook. I would try throwing a light wire hook jig and see if that helps you out. Not that you shouldn't be able to throw a full size hook, but it may help you figure out what you're doing wrong.

At the lower price point, if you have a working reel then you really want to spend on the rod. And especially with spinning reels where you can get away with a cheaper reel, this is really true.

I have a lot of braid, not used all that often but it's been on two reels for a number of years and faded but it still holds up when I need to. I would wager that you ran that line over some rocks and weakened the line that way. Braid is great with weeds, but rocks does a number on it.

That's a nice and quiet looking lake if nothing else.

I will attest that Shimano uses some fatter line diameters for their mono line ratings, at least with their casting reels. I recently tried to put enough backing to take 70 yards of 16# fluorocarbon on a Curado K assuming they went by fluorocarbon diameters like Diawa, and the line (Sunline Shooter) is dyed blue as a halfway marker and it took well past that and didn't leave enough for a second respool.

Ande is also very fat, like thicker than Berkley Big Game, Trilene XT or Sufix Siege. I would wager that newer lines may have gotten a little bit thinner, more abrasion resistant and may withstand environmental conditions a little better. I mean I doubt every line manufacturer wants to start labeling their 15lb line as "even stronger than before" suggesting maybe their older lines broke at 14 or even 13lbs or something, but to be able to do it with line that is thinner and better handling is something else.

I haven't fished an Xtasy, but it's probably a very nice rod. And Dobyns warranty and customer service is top notch, which is something to consider. I also don't have a NRX, but I have the Daiwa Steez 7'5" MH-H/F Bottom Contact rod and that might be something to consider. I can feel every rock or weed my jig hits and every vibration in the rod. You can definitely throw a 3/4oz jig with it as well, and it casts 3/8 well. My oldest son just got the Doybns Champion XP 744C, and that rod is very similar, maybe a touch lighter. One of the biggest differences is that it may have a softer tip, but less of a tip.

I know their warranty doesn't cover a lot of things, although snapping a rod is likely covered and takes like a year.

I had a 7'1" Tatula H/F and that rod was great! I leant it to my youngest son and he dropped it in a lake. Bought another, but it arrived in pieces. I can actually pitch seated in my kayak on a longer rod, but for flipping I pretty much stand up.

Honestly, I expected to see a price tag of >$500 when I clicked the thread and maybe a comment "if I only had $500 to spare" when I clicked this thread. ?

The same site has a Falcon Lowrider 6'7" MH/MF for a little more than the Bass X as well that I would take a look at if it was me.

Live bait will out fish lures for the beginner, but the more experience you get, the better lures will perform. In my case, I have had many of my best days fishing in the summer, fishing lures. I caught a ton of fish last year in a large pond where the water was 83-84 degrees, and that was really high for water in this area let alone a body of water that size.

You can fish a tube at whatever depth you want to target, similar to a ned. Just let it call down a little past your target depth then start twitching it back. I actually prefer the NED on the bottom personally.

An angler is never late, nor is he early, he arrives precisely when he means to.

Either the Owner Mosquito hooks I usually use for a drop shot or the Owner Offset Shank worm hooks. Something else I like for wacky rigs, if I'm fishing them on the bottom is fishing them on a jig head like a Strike King Squadon Swimbait jig head.

I learned to fish a baitcaster with an Abu Garcia Black Max. It's rickety as hell, the handle wobbles when you turn it etc but still works to this day.

Personally, I generally avoid ordering from China, too many fakes and crappy generic items and items that I never receive, but many people have had good luck with it. Like previously mentioned, make sure you pay with Paypal. I would be wary of knock off brands though.

I was actually going to suggest the Dobyns Fury line before you even mentioned it, because they're decent rods without breaking the bank. Since you are in Florida, you may want to go with the 765FLIP or the 805FLIP since you guys have a lot of real thick cover, otherwise I would say go with the 735C which can basically throw anything you would ever throw on a typical heavy rod, it's very versatile.

For this year, I picked up a Daiwa Tatula Elite 7'1" M/F Brent Ehrler model dropshot rod. I typically use it for larger soft plastics or heavier weights (or both) and it's also good for things like shaky heads and tubes, but I'm very impressed with the sensitivity of the rod. It's not a St. Croix or a G. Loomis, but it's definitely worth considering.