Crow Horse

Actually, I was interested in both fighting and releasing. Possibly, a released bass's behavior might signal an "alert" to other bass in the area, but that's just a WAG.

Generally speaking, will a released bass turn off the bite?

X2. Barbless is better for both the bass and the angler (in the event of getting hooked). I only fish barbless. I lose some fish occasionally but I'm C&R so it's not a big deal to me. It's a bit more challenging and keeps me on my toes.

A better photo....

No one using an ultrasonic cleaner?

I too got tired of poor photos. I never had any real size reference and they all looked the same using a hand held digital camera. My solution to this was to purchase a used GoPro and set it up on a camera boom fashioned from a telescoping monopod stick and Ram mounts. It's powered by a remotely located Nocqua 10ah battery via a 3BR Powersports external power kit. It works really well and I use a remote to start recording. I found that the voice control was inconvenient and erratic. I video in 4k/60fps and use DaVinci Resolve 18 for post production. I'm still learning but the results so far have been really good. I extract stills from the video. Pictured is the camera boom (while sitting on the trailer). Here's a still I pulled from the video....

Off the top of my head I can't think of a connector that is usable one handed. Maybe those velcro wire management strips or snap hooks/trigger snaps? It might take some trial and error.........

A better option is to leash your rods, or for that matter, anything worthwhile that doesn't float. Virtually everything is leashed on my yak. It might be a little inconvenient at times, but they offset that inconvenience when they save a valuable item. I use Neverlost leashes. Super high quality and they are available in several configurations.....

Nothing Earth shattering and quite simple to put together. 2 cutting boards, some hole saw action and SS hardware. I made this to quell my paranoia about spilling a jar of dye.

Leash EVERYTHING. Paddle, rods, anything of value. Everything on my yak is leashed. Check out the leashes here. NeverLost Leashes I use these and they are very reasonable and I've had them for about 7 years without any issues.

First time out using JJ's Magic. My initial impression is that I'm very impressed. I caught larger fish consistently and with greater frequency. My fishing buddy, who usually does as well as I do, only had half of my catch and smaller fish. Granted, this is only after one day of fishing, Note* We fish from kayaks on a small pond.

Answering my own question, yes, they are still doing business. I just received my order from them. I dyed a bunch of my KVD shads and I'll see if it steps up my game on Tuesday.

Keep the tips and hints coming! I haven't used it and I believe it will up my game. I'm curious about dry times and the procedure for combining colors to make a third (blue + yellow = green). Any insight into this?

The question still begs to be asked, are they still in business?

Once I realized that there might be an issue ordering directly from, JJ Magic, I placed another order with TW. If JJ Magic is no longer in business, then they shouldn't have a website that will process orders (and take payment). Hopefully all is well and I'll end up with a boatload of JJ Magic. Fingers are crossed.....

Is he still in business? I read some older posts on FB that hinted that he might not be due to illness. This of course is after I made an order to them.

Thanks! One (of many) personality defects is that I tend to overthink, over engineer, and over build projects. It has worked out well in the past but I do drive myself crazy in the process.....

I'm building a GroPro camera boom using a monopod and "B" & "C" Ram Mount balls & sockets. The boom can extend to just under 6'. I'm wondering if the "C" (1.5") ball will be able to keep the boom stable & secure (read - not slip). Has anyone built one with Ram Mounts and if so, was it stable? If stability is a potential issue, I'll fab up some guy wires to triangulate the base. This will be installed on my yak. No track mounts, hence the Ram Mounts.

Wow! That's pretty cool!

Scented marker?

I plan on using a donkey rig with caffeine shads this week. It will be the first time I'm using it. Should the shads be the same color or have folks had success with using 2 different colors?

Apparently, the 1oz. Mega Strike Garlic does come with a flip top cap.

Based on the below copy/pasted text, dress eyewear won't offer the protection that might be required from a weight or jig impact. In trying to keep it real we have to draw a balance between protection and practicality. " How do safety glasses and goggles differ from regular eyeglasses? Safety eyewear must conform to a higher standard of impact resistance than regular eyeglasses, which optical professionals sometimes call "dress eyewear." This higher standard applies to both the lenses and the frames of safety glasses and goggles. There are two kinds of safety glasses: prescription safety glasses and non-prescription (also called "plano" safety glasses. Regardless of their size or the durability of the frame and lenses, regular prescription eyeglasses do not qualify as safety glasses unless they meet specific criteria. In the United States, the federal government establishes safety guidelines for workplaces, to decrease the risk of on-the-job injuries. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) within the U.S. Department of Labor oversees safety practices in the workplace and in educational settings. OSHA has adopted safety eyewear standards established by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI), a private, non-profit organization that creates quality and safety standards for a wide variety of products. The ANSI standard applying to eye safety includes several types of eye protection devices, including eyeglasses (both prescription and non-prescription), goggles, face shields, welding helmets and full-face respirators. ANSI standards for safety eyewear Updated ANSI safety eyewear standards include the following key features: For the basic impact tests, lenses are tested separately (not mounted in a frame). For the high impact classification, the frame and lenses are tested together as a unit. Non-prescription lenses used for high impact testing are considered to be structurally weaker than prescription lenses made of the same material; the prescription lenses are generally thicker. Thinner prescription safety lenses are now allowed, if they meet the high impact testing requirements. (Previously, all prescription safety lenses had to have a minimum thickness of 3 mm, making them significantly thicker and heavier than regular eyeglass lenses.) Safety lenses now have two classifications of performance: basic impact and high impact. The "drop ball" test determines the basic impact safety classification for lenses. In this test, a one-inch diameter steel ball is dropped onto the lens from a height of 50 inches. To pass, the lens must not crack, chip or break. All glass safety lenses must undergo this test. For plastic safety lenses, however, only a statistical sample of a large batch of lenses needs to be tested. In high impact testing, a high velocity test is performed by shooting a quarter-inch diameter steel ball at the lens at a speed of 150 feet per second. To pass, the lens must not crack, chip or break, and it must not become dislodged from the lens holder.

I made that mistake and now find that it's almost impossible to remove the toothbrush from my mouth...... (only kidding)

This is minor but should make it more convenient to use Mega Strike attractants. The screw off cap was a bit of a pain to use and I read a review of a desire for them to use a flip cap instead of the screw type cap. Easy fix. Use the cap from Colgate toothpaste which is a flip top and it screws right on the Mega Strike tube. Easy peasy......