Crow Horse

I agree 100%. We've been using them for 3 years. They are well worth the loot. I think they are on sale now which makes them an even better bargain......... The roller cam straps just make it a little easier to set the tension. It's certainly not a deal breaker. It looks like you could get a pair of the YakGear straps at ACK for about the price of one roller cam strap. I would look at the YakGear straps....

Regarding cam straps, there are several very high quality choices out there. Boncas is one, Yakgear has a padded version, and there's even one that has a roller in the cam buckle that makes cinching down easier.... https://www.austinkayak.com/products/22825/Yak-Gear-Tie-Down-Straps.html

The 3/8" version is a bit overkill. You could get easily use the 1/4" size. I'm using the 1/8" with paracord. The beauty of using the rope is that it greatly reduces wind flap. Webbing flaps a lot and can drive you crazy....

Yep, technically it's a ratcheting mechanism. The difference is that a ratchet strap allows additional leverage and can be cranked too tight. I'm sure if you were hell bent on causing damage with the rope lines you could if you worked hard enough but would require a lot more effort. Another item not to forget is a red flag on the rear of the yak. It might be required by law if the yak hangs past the end of your vehicle.....

There is a small lever that allows the rope to release the tension. To tighten, set the hooks in place and pull on the tag end. Similar products can be found at Tractor Supply. These might be cheaper but the rope length might be too short. Easy to replace the rope....

Ratchet straps are in the "Book of No" pertaining to kayaks (generally speaking). People all too often crank them down too tight and run the risk of damaging the hull. Use something similar to these...

Bow and stern lines are mandatory in my book. If a camlock strap fails they are your only backup. Consider your investment that is sitting on your roof. It's worth the extra couple of minutes to secure it properly. Even more important, consider the possible consequences if straps fail and your yak becomes a missile while you're on the road and it targets a following vehicle.... https://paddling.com/learn/kayak-rack-fail/

Has anyone compared the Mustad Fastach clips to the Rosco drop shot clips? They look similar and are cheaper...

Blunt tip knife flashlight & strobe 2way radio hook file surgical needle holders - 8" & 10" ceramic scissors not picture - fish gripper, whistle (in pocket)

Thanks guys! I have been trolling when I moved to another spot, figuring that dragging a large worm or creature behind me might not be optimal, but at least I've got a line in the water. I do miss strikes and when I do, I stop, turn around and fan cast the area. A great many times I'm able to successfully hook up. I have been able to land some sizable bass this way. This year I'm going to try and drag a glide bait with a leading teaser and see what happens......

When I move from spot to spot in my yak, I'll troll and I keep my "speed" at 1 mph. Is this too slow?

Ordered some fastech clips. Can't wait to use them!

I'm going to state the obvious. When using contact cement, do it outside. The fumes will kill a moose. There are water based contact cements which aren't too bad but don't know if they are waterproof. And no sparks or smoking while using it. It'll go boom.....

The bass might be in an inactive state. Consider that you've just had a great meal with generous portions and someone presents a plate of world class lasagna in front of you. Even though it's your favorite dish, odds are you're gonna pass on the lasagna (unless you're a bluefish).....

I might be wrong. Although I've never seen the rod in question, I did some research and apparently they did use carbide guides. I'm hoping to get a picture of it to make a better determination. Thanks for your help!

Thanks Tom! It's a vintage Ted Williams rod (from Sears) and more than likely the guides are stainless without inserts.......

A friend of mine is considering starting to use braid with an old rod. I think the guides are stainless. Are there any issues in doing this? Thanks....

Mono does have a "shelf life" and does dry out. Old mono might be ok for backing but that's about it. I have several spools (10 pound spools of 20# test & 10# test) that are 30 plus years old. I won't use them for anything but backing.....

Tape will hold up better than paint on the blades....

Thanks! I think the "rating" pertaining to the size on my Mitchells is a bit generous at 4000. Regardless, it works and serves me well....

And it leaves no adhesive residue....

If it works, great, but I'm not sure that teflon tape is the best choice. If I'm not mistaken, teflon's co-efficient of friction is almost the lowest of all known compounds which makes it a poor choice for something that needs to "grab". Just saying.....

I've been searching for an answer to disciphering reel sizes. Currently, I have 4 Mitchell 300Pro's and they are rated by Mitchell (Pure Fishing) as being a 4000 size reel. Reel sizing seems to be an ambiguous rating by the manufacturers. If I were to use another reel to replace the Mitchell, I'd be guessing that a 3000-4000 size would be a starting point. I use 20# braid on all the 360Pro's..... Can anyone clear the smoke?.........

Agreed 1000%. I think that some states might require it by law. Maybe the states that don't just want to thin out the gene pool......

A couple of pics of a home brew reel jig/vise....