Smalls

You don’t always have to be grinding the bottom. You should, however, be hitting cover. That could mean running it across the top of some grass, bumping it against some wood, or bouncing it around a riprap bank.

When I pitch sitting down, I’v usually got the target at my 10 o’clock, and I’m basically leaning my upper body to/rod hanging over the left side of the kayak. That way there’s nothing to clear. I’ve found that to work well for me, not sure how everyone else positions.

I don’t expect two years out of most reels under $100. I do have a Pro Max from Garcia that has defied that rule, though. Not only has it lasted me 4 years, it’s one of my smoothest reels. I was so impressed I bought my wife one, and it was complete junk. Exchanged it for another, another junk reel. We exchanged it once more before I figured I had just gotten really lucky with the first one.

Yes. If yer vertically challenged, like myself, maybe even just a tad higher.

It constantly cinches down on itself. It’s easier for 12 wraps to cinch down than 20. I remember the guy from Salt Strong even mentions it in one his 400 FG knot instructional videos.

This is actually counter productive. While you need enough wraps to prevent slipping, the less wraps you have, the more the braid bites into the leader. You’ll never tighten it all the way to where it should be with your hands. It’s a knot that tightens down on itself the more you use it.

90% of my fish caught on large swimbaits are under 2lbs, so I can definitely tell you that your jerkbait is definitely not too big.

You’re over thinking it. It might help to have your jig a few inches above your reel before making your pitch, just to be sure you clear your kayak. But everything else is the same. A few ripples from your kayak rocking isn’t gonna scare fish, 99% of the time, either. Earlier this year I was fishing in 6 ft of gin clear water with a 8-9 pounder literately just chilling underneath me while I fished.

There’s been a few pro’s in the past that use a couple custom rods and put their sponsors stickers on em to avoid contract issues. There’s been a few pro’s in the past that use a couple custom rods and put their sponsors stickers on em to avoid contract issues.

I was dead set on buying a boat before I bought my kayak. But I moved to a state where water is at least 2.5 hours away, and having something I can can load n go quickly with made more sense. I figured I’d do the kayak thing til I moved again and had more access to water. But honestly, I don’t see a boat in my future, anymore. I see a Hobie, or something else pedal driven in the future, but not a boat.

I like my Fury, but I have the opposite opinion of yours. My 705cb is rated for 1 oz. I don’t feel comfortable throwing that much on it. If they rated it anything else, I feel like they should go down and call it a “mag medium”, instead. I don’t have enough experience with their other lines to really comment on them, though.

Thankfully you bought a really stable kayak. I find that every few hours I have to stand and fish, just to stretch, and give my lower back a rest. Might want to give it a try.

I’m sorry, but people like you terrify me. A bungee? Really?

I trailer mine exclusively. I use the NRS straps, and they don’t budge. They’re inexpensive, and work great. Don't use the Malone cam straps they sell at Cabela’s. The ends fray like crazy for no d**n reason. I’ve accidentally left the end of my NRS straps drag on the road and they still didn’t fray.

I don’t think you’re going to find much comfort in a <$500 kayak. But I understand that is what you have to work with, so I suggest trying to find a comfortable add on option. For example- my seat is very comfortable, but an 8 hour tournament day can be rough for anyone. So I bought a gel cushion and back at Walmart for $25. It was in the automotive section.

Probably added to cushion your fingers. I know for me, if I fish certain techniques all day, my fingers are sore from gripping right there.

I use bait binders. 2-3 usually holds what I’ll need for a weekend on the water, and stores easily on the kayak. I don’t get too crazy with plastics, a few styles of craws, 1-2 sizes of paddle tails, etc. and maybe 3-4 different colors covers all my bases. I’ll throw another binder of extra bags of things I think I'll go through if it’s a tournament.

Braid that thick has advantages when it comes to fishing heavy cover. Think matted grass, or places where fish are gonna try and wrap you around stuff. You need line big enough to winch em out and away from that.

Most swimbait guys are running either Big Game, or CXX. I run braid to leaders on a majority majority of my rods. But my pitching rod and swimbait rods get straight CXX.

The advice I always give guys new to casting gear and braid is to use at least 30lb and keep in mind to check for “dig in”, otherwise you’ll have nothing but headaches

The bullshad has gotten me a lot of bites during the fall in the past. I’ve had some success with glides, but not much.

A lot of people buy the 795 because of its price and weight rating. It’s a great rod for Huds, Burritos, etc. not great for treble hooks. It’s a fast action rod, and pretty stiff.

What’s your price range? I know you were looking at the iRod Genesis. They have their 7’8 “Junior Swimbait model that’s moderate action, and good for 1-4 ounces.

It’ll work, but if you want “the right tool for the job”, you want a rod with a moderate action for treble hooks. Especially running braid.

Sportsman’s Warehouse has the Predator for $1300, in case your deal falls through.