MN Fisher

I purchased an extension cord specifically for the charger. 25', 10gauge...the NOCO has maintenance mode, so I leave it plugged in 24x7. The starter battery I remove and put it on it's own charger, also with maintenance mode...no extension as it's parked right by an outlet.

Exactly right - don't use pressure treated wood anywhere on an aluminum boat...even for the trailer/lift bunks. If you want to help keep rot away - Oil Based Spar Urethane before carpet. That's what I used on not only the trailer bunks when I rebuilt the trailer for 'Bass Trek', but also all the decking.

Okay - a little investigating and I found out something. The Brake Indicator Ring is not sold as a separate part by anyone - it's integral to the side plate. You'd need to order a whole new side plate to get that back. Or dial all the way clockwise - Sharpie to mark "0" All the way counterclockwise - Sharpie to mark "10"

Ask and ye shall receive. 1" thick aluminum plate, held to jack-plate with 4x10-24 flat head machine screws and Red Loctite. Heads countersunk into jack-plate, blind-hole drilled and tapped...since the spacing plate isn't subjected to shear stress, the 10-24s are more than sufficient. 3/8" between bottom of spacing plate and top of transom so no 'junk' gets wedged in there.

I can sympathize - general depression (medicated), moderate ADHD and Anxiety disorder here myself. Been off-and-on meds since the mid 90s - mainly off because of undesirable side-effects...finally got on one that the side-effects can be controlled. Mental illness is a b*tch...just know you're not alone, man.

If I need parts for my Pflueger casting reels - this is my first stop https://www.ereplacementparts.com/pflueger-parts-c-186372.html

Older round reels that didn't have AR, or if you've disabled the AR...otherwise no. Kinda like how spinning reels are more-and-more removing the AR switch so there is no way to back-reel them.

Wow - and I thought I was doing good at 94.3% Congrats to her and hope she keeps it up.

Still hanging in there - 2 in the top 10, 2 more 'knocking' on the door...and my straggler ended up in the high 80s Ah well.

I've got two Rogues that are dupe colors....might have to do that with one of them.

And the cover that the wife got me for my birthday last fall fits perfectly.

Give up your Ray-Bans and Oakleys too...

Probably got a C&D for posting copy-written material.

I've bought nothing but OSHA rated Poly-carb glasses for my prescription for longer than I can remember. Couple places I worked, I just had to put OSHA rated side-shields on and I was golden...no fogging, uncomfortable goggles for this guy.

And we're ready for the water - 2 days after Tonka was declared ice-free. Things done this past winter 1: Install jack-plate to raise the motor to where it should be - long-shaft motor on short-shaft transom. 2: Moved forward camera to mid-ships and installed on pole - this should (hopefully) give a good look at what I'm doing and makes it easier to 'show off' catches. Installed 3rd USB power socket just behind the base. 3: Replaced 'floppy-arm' mount for tablet (which my Navionics runs on) with Ram mount. 4: Replaced short arm on sonar Ram mount with longer arm to make it easier to look at while I'm standing in the bow. 5: (not visible) Re-routed plumbing for livewell - fill and empty now run through different hoses, but the drain/fill still runs through the same fitting with the valve still used to close off the empty. 6: Mounted 3 rope-cleats (Bow, Stern-port, Stern-starboard) 7: To the Stern-port cleat, secured a snap-hook carabiner that the newly purchased stake-out pole (laying along port side behind rod-locker hatch) will go through...allows me to shallow anchor without the mushroom anchor and rope...though will still have that for deep-water anchoring. 8: Replaced upper transom bolts with eye-bolts...transom tie down now with those instead of cross-the-gunwale strap.

Reason I never shot Spruce Grouse...only Ruffed...when I hunted up north.

Being old and having only one working eye - I need the hi-vis for finesse line watching when working with slack or semi-slack line. Smackdown Bright Green or Sufix Yellow are my choices.

Someone might have added the Shimano label on it - the Hot'n Tot is a Storm lure...still sold. https://www.rapala.com/storm/hard-baits/hot-n-tot-series/original-hot-n-tot-/Original+Hot+N+Tot.html?cgid=storm-hardbaits-hotNTot&taglist=Storm|Hard Baits|Hot 'N Tot Series Another possibility is that it was made special for Shimano - cause the 089 color is not a standard one for Storm.

It's actually a Storm Hot'n Tot (says Storm on the label) Came in 3/8oz and 1/4oz - rattling crank...not sure of the depth range. Could probably write to Rapala and find out...address is still the same or contact from their web-page here - https://www.rapala.com/content/rapala-contact-us/customer-contact-us.html?fdid=rapala-contact-us&id=1

Pretty much across the board, the frames are the same, just the spool depths change. S - Shallow spool D - Deep spool _ - Standard spool (no S or D in the model) I like buying JDM for my spinning reels now as you can get standard spool in almost any size where as for the most part you can only get deep spools buying USDM.

I think this is the best 1st day I've had - 3 in the top 10, 1 more in the top 25 - and one straggler down in the 70s.

Not yet...looking...maybe later in the year.

I tried 10# Advance Mono last year on one of my reels. After coming back from the first trip trying it, stripped it off, tossed it in the trash and put YZH on that reel - I really didn't like the Advance.

Just a few things to add to my crappie arsenal - though they'll probably work for bass as well.

YZH is definitely the line to try - inexpensive, abrasion resistant and low stretch.