PhishLI

No more racoon meatloaf?

One of my better cooler water producers. Rigged like this on a Gamakatsu 296415-3/16 or 29641-1/8 with the stock spring keeper changed out to an Owner (L) CPS. I use a Rattle snaker to inject a rattle.

11-BEARING SYSTEM with stainless steel double shielded bearings provides exceptionally smooth reeling and enhanced corrosion protection ONE-PIECE ALUMINUM FRAME promotes lightweight durability and eliminates flex DOUBLE ANODIZED ALUMINUM 34mm SPOOL is tough, lightweight, machined, and braid-ready with a large line capacity SPEED GEARS® with P2 SUPER PINION® are cut on the finest Hamai CNC machines to provide smooth cranking power with less wear FLIPPING SWITCH on all models make this reel a shallow water bass angler's dream

For sure! My grandfather was from Bari. Still have a bunch of relatives who live there. They still keep photos on the walls of the family who immigrated back in the early 20's.

Not for 1/2oz cranks on a 7'6" rod where you'll be bombing baits for distance. The Tatula 80 would be the better choice. It does. Same size. I have both.

Everyone is entitled to their preferences for whatever reason, but AFAIK, nobody here is doing production reel repair though. Baitcasters, even Daiwas, must be the most dumb-simple machines I've ever worked on.

Sorry, I can't help with the secret sauce. My grandmother was from Naples, but her father came from Sicily. She used to make braciole often, which was fantastic just like most anything else she made. My mom made it a few weeks ago, but I'd just blown up a molar on a cherry pit, so I had to pass. I think I'll ask her to make it again as my first meal after the implant goes in 6 months or so from now.

Thaaaat's what I figured. Eh, you're free to fantasize about things you've never touched just like anyone else with a heartbeat and a keyboard, but that doesn't add credibility to your arguments. I doubt that's your goal anyway in these tedious, kooky, brand-bashing, whining complaint posts. I should've known better to bother. I know better.

Prove it then. Post a vid of your personal Ark reel GRINDING. I don't give opinions about things I haven't owned, serviced, or fished with. Mine have been smooth as goose sh...

First time hearing that one, and I fish in freezing weather. Never had a part break in the mech. Not that hard to service really. Seriously? A mile? Oy. Zero clue what this complaint means. So, get an ARK Gravity 7 or 8 and be happy, or probably not. Similar enough mag brakes. Same with the Lew's Custom Pro with Paramag ITB which is nearly a Mag Z clone. Doubtful the T-Wing is going anywhere, which is fine with me.

My T-wing Daiwas all have heavier plastic line spooled on beginning at 15lb Fluoro going up to 20lb BG. It easy to tell the difference between the near zero-friction line-flow-feel of a T-wing compared to conventional guides while using these lines. Easily noticeable. My two Fuegos both have braid spooled on. Why anyone might be "fatigued" by this tech is somewhat mystifying, But hey, you do you.

I've already tried asking this question twice. @DontFeedJay has logged in after he started this thread. Nothing but crickets. Maybe you're more charming than me and you'll get a response. Perhaps he just came here to vent? Wouldn't be the first time a new poster started a thread, received thoughtful advice, then evaporated without a sound.

X2!

I'll advise you to follow up with my first reply to you and describe where you fish as best as you can. Your state DEC might even have contour maps available if you check. Bass fishing is simple. It's boils down to two things. Locating fish and bait presentation at that moment. Get both of these wrong and you'll struggle. Unless you've been fishing truly dead water, it's highly likely that you've missed fish that were right under your nose. This is easy to do, even after you've cracked the code of a given body of water. If you haven't cracked the code, then it's guaranteed. Most cold-water public northern lakes have low population densities per acre. First, it's the nature of the beast, but then throw in over harvesting and poaching pressure. These two factors combined mean you will need to be precise about where and when you choose to fish plus baits and presentation. Tell the group as much as you can about the places you fish and you might get some useful information that could change your fortune.

Describe the lake where you primarily fish. Depth range from the bank. Bottom composition? Weeds? Topped out or subsurface? Lily pads? Laydowns? Deep water dropoffs? Rip-rap? Reeds?

Think nothing of it. The floor for intelligence to go fishing is quite low. Unlike some hobbies, literally anyone can participate. That in itself is just fine, but when they're stupid too, well...To prove it they do things like leave truly absurd product reviews and say beyond dumb and sometimes cruel things on FB groups and fishing forums. Don't let them regulate your pleasure. We're mostly men here, so occasionally things might get a touch salty, but very few of the regulars are truly arseholes. Those who might be are at least smart enough not to launch personal attacks.

If you like it otherwise, for 5 bux and free shipping with amazon prime it's an easy fix. Amazon.com: Litoexpe 16pcs Fishing Rod Tip Repair Kit, Black Stainless Steel Rod Top Tips Replacement Ceramic Ring Guide Tips : Sports & Outdoors

You can if you like. That would be my first choice especially if I needed to fish it weedlessly. You can if you like. Doesn't really matter one way or the other unless the hook is very short.

I'll assume your spool is filled properly, meaning not overfilled, but how about a picture for the group to see? As it has been mentioned here over and over again on this board, if you have a boat let out about 100' of line without anything tied on and just drive. This will untwist the line which is what's causing your wind knot issue. Doesn't help the shore fishers though. If you don't own or have access to a boat, do this: Cut off your lure, flip the bail up, and walk off about 100' of line. Go back to your rod, flip down the bail, then do this: Starting at the rod's tip top guide, pinch the line between your thumbnail and the last digit of your pointer finger. Now start walking toward the end of your line while keeping light pressure. The braid will begin to untwist as you proceed, especially at about the 50' to 40' mark. Once you're done just reel your line in and tie on a lure. When I'm shore fishing, I do this at the end of every third trip especially if I'm throwing super light baits where slack line is a reality only made worse by the slightest breeze. On top of always closing your bail by hand, if you see a big bow in your line, pinch the line while reeling in. It'll help. And as others here have advised, learning to use a bait caster will only make things better in the end. Even if it doesn't replace your spinning rods, you'll be able to fish much heavier line which will allow you to fish heavy veg way more effectively.

Not really besides a new gear set. Just the nature of the beast, depending on the particular reel, with that particular earlier DOYO geartrain architecture. I've felt them go from relatively smooth to geary after cranking in a 5 pounder through heavy veg and pads with locked down drag. Without the added support of an extended pinion journal into a sideplate bearing, the pinion deforms under heavy loads. Most post 2020 Lew's and some ABUs solved that issue.

I believe that if something's in the water and seems to be alive then a bass thinks it's food. It's no more complicated than that. Also, I think if they hit whatever you're throwing, it's likely they'd hit a myriad of other baits. While it might seem specific at the moment, it really isn't. It just seems so compared to whatever else one might be throwing at the time.

Best of last night. Big Bite Baits Jerk Minnow in junebug and a 5" Strike King Shim-E-Stick in black/blue flake/blue tip got all the attention. Both rigged on an Owner Twistlock Light 6/0.

I've had the 7' MH version(701MHFS) for about 6 years. Got it specifically for wading out under overhanging trees in a few lakes where it was otherwise impossible to swing correctly with a baitcaster. 30lb Daiwa J8 on a BG. It would be fair to say that this rod has taken abuse. In the above-described scenario whacking branches in the dark will happen occasionally. I'm also winding in fish through dense lily pad fields and weeds. The rod still looks new. Obviously, no breaks or lost inserts. That said, where others have experienced failures, I've had weird good fortune when it comes to gear not being defective in some way or breaking. Anyway, I wouldn't exactly call it a moderate. Maybe in the way a Dobyn's 3 Power MHF is somewhat moderate in comparison to most MHF rods. No problem launching 5" stick baits though or keeping trebles pinned. Spinning reel drag helps with that.

nope

I agree. Gotta have a Bullshad in the lineup no matter what though. Lots of complaints about the Trick shad from the community. Best to let them work out the kinks. I'm with you on the Trace. They work.