PhishLI

You could just scratch the surface on the inside somewhere smart and you'd know instantly. Unfortunately, not true. After this reel came out a member here checked this for me and his was plastic. At least the spool bearing is no longer held in by that pressed in star washer like they used in the CT series.

Digitaka. Look at the price in USD. Less than an Elite purchased stateside. Be brave.😁

What size worm will you be using in the 1/8oz Shakey Head? The reason I ask is that once you get past the 5 gram or so total weight mark, there isn't much point in using a purpose built BFS reel with a 28mm-30mm 5 gram spool, IMO. I think you'll be better served here with an Alphas TW 800S. A 1/8oz head with even a very light worm will put you easily over 6 grams. This is mindless casting territory for this reel on even a typical medium rod while still using a conventional casting rod casting stroke. It'll only get better on a ML rod. I have my Alphas 800S on a Medium light and it's primarily used to sling weightless 4" senkos which clock in at 6.4 grams on an Owner Twistlock Light 4/0. I'd rather use this setup for this weight bait over either of my 2 true BFS setups where I prefer to max out at 1/8 oz total weight.

In this case most carbon fiber handles are in fact accurately described instead of some version injected molded polymer/plastic. See the quote below for the distinction:

And then there's the real world where plenty of people have nothing but positive long term experiences outside of D or S reels. It's only on the internet and when the question is asked do certain people act like anything but a Daiwa or Shimano will spontaneously combust without notice which is total horse shyte. Personally, I haven't needed to order a part for an other-than brand reel that I'd purchased new going back at least 8 years now. Most makers or re-branders with a logo on Tackle Warehouse's manufacturers list have got their act together. Past a certain price point, I'd like to know for sure that I'm able to order normal wear parts like gear sets, springs, pawls, etc, so that's a valid concern. Beyond that, I buy what I'd like to try out with the idea in mind that all mag brakes approaches behave differently from one another as do all centrifugal braking systems. Lew's ACB braking suits me better than any other centrifugal system I've tried, so I'm glad I gave them a shot. I've punished both my Tournament Pro LFS and my BB1 Pro in some of the most choked out water imaginable and they're both still rock solid. I can say the same for other brands I've tried. With normal maintenance, they've all been trouble free. Any brand can put out lemons. Look around and you'll find reviews where they've sworn off Daiwa and Shimano. It's just silliness. Anyone who's paranoid about a reel can buy it from Amazon, try it out, then send it back within 30 days no questions asked if it's as horrible as some people claim it might be by default. It won't be, of course.

Is this sound you're hearing? Video should start at 3:50 and is where he's cranking the handle somewhat vigorously. https://youtu.be/HltdJVjWn-g?si=Q_raL9pSyGTMKjVZ&t=230 If you put slight thumb pressure on the spool and crank the reel, does it feel smooth or rough? If it feels smooth, then it's probably fine as-is. If it's rough, then there's probably little point in greasing anything. Call again and try to speak with someone with a brain. Calmly let them know that you've posted your experience on BR. Perhaps send them the link to this thread. Hopefully they'll be smart enough to put the fire out. A restocking fee for a straight replacement for a just-bought unused reel is nuts. For the record, I've had/have 2 ARK BFS reels, and both were/are very smooth crankers, and they're 8 spds. Lower gear ratios are typically a tad smoother right out of the gate.

Unlike typical true BFS reels, the Pro SP has a lot more potential drag. I'll assume that it isn't as delicate on its lighter settings as a true BFS reel if it has a multi-disc drag stack, but I could be wrong. My only concern with using that reel on an ultra light/light rod would be properly measuring and calibrating the drag to protect the rod. I caught plenty of bass on ultra-light rods when I was a kid, so I don't think you need to worry too much about that especially if you let the drag do its part. In your particular case, the only hairy thing would be when smallies run under the boat. Even a 3 pounder will fold a MH over pretty good in that scenario. You might need to be prepared to click the thumbar and thumb the spool to allow it to run until you can get it back out in front of you, especially if you're still fishing from a Jon boat and you need to remain seated. I have no way of knowing how tough these sticks are.

I haven't, but I've had the 6'9" Super Finesse in my cart and I'll pull the trigger shortly. Oddly, I've had $130 in BPS gift cards sitting around, so those will just about cover it. The few reviews on the finesse models seem ok and the 10 year warranty makes it worth taking a shot IMO.

CT stands for "Compact Tough".

I use these: The Rod Glove Casting Reel Glove - Tackle Warehouse Or these that are identical: Amazon.com : SF Low Profile Casting Reel Cover Black Baitcast Reel Case Pouch Glove Fits 50 100 200 Series Baitcaster 3PCS : Sports & Outdoors Unlike some reel covers, these will flatten out in your back pocket. Sometimes they come in a vacuum pack where they ship flat. The upside here is you can stuff them into a back pocket and not really notice they're there. So, that's what I do. When I pick up a rod, I peel off the cover in a few seconds and stow it in my back pocket, then reverse the process when I switch rigs. It really takes very little time, like seconds, and these particular covers don't pinch down on the line between the reels line guide and first rod guide which is a plus in my book. Many reel covers do. I have new-to-me reels in my rotation going back 8 years and you'd have a hard time finding a mark on them. When I lake and pond wade, I'm circling these spots with 5-8 rigs slung over my shoulder like one might do when transporting a stack of 2X4s and my reels remain clean due to diligently using reels covers.

That's why I use these instead. Decoy VJ-36 Decibo Darter Offset Jig Head - Tackle Warehouse The way the hook's point is bent downward really helps with weedlessness and the shank is longer than what's found on the Finesse BulletZ. I've been able to fish these through some remarkably heavy cover. Also, they super sharp. I haven't had a hook break or bend out with these whereas the hooks on the Finnesse Bullets are brittle. Try to bend the hook to get the point more in line to the hook's eye for a better skin-hooking and it' likely to snap.

As mentioned, I'm not sure. Daiwa claims some of their reels have a Hyper Armed Housing but they do not have aluminum side plates, so without visual confirmation I simply don't know. Also, the USDM Tatula 150 weighs 224 grams or 7.9 ounces versus the Salamandura 150 weighing 192 grams or 6.8 ounces. The extra weight of the Tatula 150 is coming from somewhere. If they both use brass gears, then it's reasonable to assume the weight difference is due to one having an aluminum side plate while the other doesn't, but that's no guarantee. That said, my personal preference for this feature shouldn't steer you away from the Salamandura if your heart is set on it because of its features and distinctive styling. Also, drag clickers are cool.

If your baits will be in the range you mentioned earlier, and longer casts are part of your tactic, then go for the Tatula 150. Another reason for this selection is the aluminum gear-side side cover. I made up my mind in 2021 that for me any new Daiwa purchases would have this feature. Reasons why would be ruggedized construction and at least theoretically, more precise gear alignment under stress from hard fighting fish or fighting fish through thick cover. On top of that speculation, every Daiwa I own and in my orbit with this feature has remained rock solid and smooth. I've found no evidence that the CDM Salamandura Tatula variant has an aluminum gear-side side cover, even if it might. If you see yourself skipping baits often, the Salamandura may be the better choice for you if you rely heavily on SV braking while skipping.

Since you're considering the Salamandura shown in the links in this thread, which is simply a CDM Tatula variant, perhaps you should consider the USDM Tatula 150 too shown in the link below. Here's why: The Hyperdrive gear cut introduced in 2021 is the real deal. Combine that with Tatula models fitted with Aluminum gear-side side covers and you have very durable reels that stay very smooth over time. Other standard Tatula models with this feature are the 70, 80, Elite, and 200. You don't get an aluminum side plate with Shimano until you reach the Tranx 300, which is worth considering, but at a much higher price point. Also, 36 mm spool Daiwas with Mag Z braking are great at slinging heavy baits for distance if that matters to you. Daiwa Tatula 150 Casting Reel - Tackle Warehouse

For those of you with the patience to read through all of the posts in this thread, Shimano does in fact offer magnetically braked reels in their BFS models and every DC reel Shimano offers is digitally controlled magnetic braking. There's zero centrifugal/friction braking in these models. Anyone with depth knowledge on the subject knows that Daiwa makes available a multitude of magnetic braking options far more sophisticated and diversified than dumb-simple linear magnetic "Korean" magtrax braking.

I don't know. If I had to guess, probably not, but maybe. I couldn't say whether Tanso is harder than Zion or CI4+, so I can't say how resistant it is to threads stripping out because of deformation due to torque or simply cycling from servicing. Feeling the lead-in thread "click in" with metal frames and machine screws is obvious. It's less obvious with plastic frames that dampen that "click-in" feel. Combine that with the nature of coarse cutting threads of self-tappers that can begin cutting a new thread into an already threaded hole. The real key is avoiding that particular potential issue by being patient and deliberate when reinstalling those frame screws Short of that I wouldn't worry much about any problem about the material.

It's been listed as $300 on their site for a long time. Coupons drop it even more.

Since about 2014. I owned one and serviced it. They can call it carbon or carbon fiber, it isn't, or whatever they like, but it's essentially plastic. Had they embedded machine-screw metal inserts anywhere a screw was used like my less expensive chyna/Banax built Quantum Vapor does I might've kept it. For me this is strictly a servicing issue. Coarse self tapping screws cycled in and out of plastic over time are a potential failure point I'm not interested in. I tend to break down and lube my reels several times during a typical season. Shimano also made this mistake with the Curado K having the gear-side side plate secured from the frame side with coarse self tappers. Looks better, but it isn't, IMO. They corrected this with the Curado 150 MGL and The Curado M with machine screws into the metal frame attaching their plastic side plates. I imagine failures recorded at service centers compelled them to make the change. Shimano Chronarch CI4+ Product Review Shimano Chronarch MGL Casting Reel Product Review

I agree. Even said so.

Yes.

A 5" GY senko plus standard 3/0 hook weighs in at about 10 grams. Not a light bait. With that weight and specific type bait or even a fluke, and a rod proper for it, no reel I have will yield a cast farther than a Tournament Pro LFS. That includes my favorite $400 Zillion G. It can come close, but that isn't the point of the OP's $175 price point question. The Pro SP is just as capable as the TP LFS. I can't say what happens as weights go down significantly as I have other rigs for that duty, and the OP asked about chucking senkos. And the Lew's Pro SP will easily beat the Tat SV in a distance contest with that bait. However, the Tat SV is a better skipping reel, meaning less user input or mindless skipping. You'll need to be sharper with the Lew's.

The Pro SP holds plenty of line for bomb casting senkos into open water. No problem with 10 to 15lb mono with line to spare. Nobody's chucking a weightless 5" senko much farther than 130' on a good day. Also, with its light spool, it'll be way lighter fully loaded than any 150 and especially 200 sized reel. Possibly 10 grams lighter or more. That's a plus in actual use terms. If the OP wishes to give skipping a shot in the future, he'll have a purpose-built reel for that and one far more suited to the task than any Shimano with a conventionally deep spool and with SVS Infinity braking, IMO.

So don't use it for skipping. Lower the brake setting out of the skipping zone and simply cast your worm just as with any other bait caster.

Personally, and from a practical point of view, I'd send the older plastic bait casters packing before there's an issue. So, the T3s and Chronarch would go. Hard to say what else you should let go. No way the Steez A goes anywhere, IMO

This guy has all the good stuff and strikes me as honest. He likes it for UL duty.