Hey all,

 

I have the following reels and I need to let go of some l but can’t decide which. I just have more than I would use. Seems like it would be better to put the money towards maybe an upgrade of some sort. I appreciate the help. 
 

Feel free to choose 5 or more you’d post for sale. If so inclined, share your reasoning. 
 

Metanium B DC 8:1

Daiwa T3 1016 7:1

Chronarch MGL 7:1

Team Daiwa Zillion 7:1

Zillion SV 7:1

Metanium B 6:1

Daiwa Lexa 5:1

First gen Tatula 6:1

Daiwa T3 1016 6:1

Steez a 6:1 26 IPT

Ultegra

Stradic FL 4000

Sorry, but impossible to tell someone which reels to keep or get rid of.

 

Only you know which are in better or worse shape, or which you prefer in YOUR HANDS and on YOUR RODS.

 

All are good reels in their own right. It's up to you to decide which you like better than the others. Get rid of the ones you don't like as much.

I agree, it’s really impossible to answer.

 

We don’t know your rods.

 

We don’t know the techniques you prefer.

 

With that being said, take a few days off to contemplate selling anything. There’s some really good Black Friday specials, you might want to add to your collection.

 

Each reel I own is almost for a specific purpose. So if you really want to slim down, I wouldn't base your decision on the reel but rather on the technique you use them for. Decide on which you throw the least or maybe even the most. If you don't use it, then maybe you need to let it go. If you use it a lot, maybe think of an upgrade. 

You'll find a strong market for OG Daiwa on TT forum.  

9 hours ago, TimTheGearNerd said:

Feel free to choose 5 or more you’d post for sale. If so inclined, share your reasoning. 

Personally, and from a practical point of view, I'd send the older plastic bait casters packing before there's an issue. So, the T3s and Chronarch would go. Hard to say what else you should let go. No way the Steez A goes anywhere, IMO

For ME it would be the Lexa.  I don't fish a technique requiring that ratio or capacity.  I have a few older reels with 5.7 or 5.8 ratios but smaller capacities.  I fish the reels not because I like their speed but because I like the reels.  I have a tendency to only use them on crankbait rods.  I've also come to prefer a bit faster ratio.

2 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

You'll find a strong market for OG Daiwa on TT forum.  

Very true!! My first thought was, I wonder if that TD Zillion and those T3 reels are left handed! 😁

The OG zillion is honestly one of the best built around. That drive gear is giant and bullet proof. 
 

yeah those T3 were on the chopping block for sure. 
 

the Chronarch these days fetch such low prices. Market is between 50 and 100 bucks. It’s. A solid caster still. 
 

I have a few of Calcutta I’ve been using more. Most of my techniques are basically covered with all these reels gone. 
 

im surprised no one mentioned stradic or the Met since I figure those would get picked up fast for a good price. 

9 minutes ago, FrnkNsteen said:

Very true!! My first thought was, I wonder if that TD Zillion and those T3 reels are left handed! 😁

Sorry sir. All right handed 

Picked up quick and for a good price should be the goal.  

4000-size Stradic will find the best market among Gulf coast anglers. 

2 hours ago, PhishLI said:

Personally, and from a practical point of view, I'd send the older plastic bait casters packing before there's an issue. So, the T3s and Chronarch would go. Hard to say what else you should let go. No way the Steez A goes anywhere, IMO

I agree the Chronarch would go first, but I’d hold on to the T3. 1. They are very smooth for carbon frame reels. 2. Magforce 3D is a unique design you just can’t find today. Located in the side plate, it complements the modern 34mm SV or SV Boost spools very nicely. 
 

If the zillion is the new zillion with all the “hyper” stuff, then I’d pick the zillion or the Steez A. The feel and function of those two are so similar, I’d only keep one (I gonna sell my Steez A soon). 
 

Then it’s probably the Met DC. It’s great but you already have the Met B. The Met DC is the chicken wing tips - it seems to be wasteful throwing them away but they don’t have much meat. Plus, you’d get a good offer from those who want to try DC reels.
 

Finally, TD-Zillion is an heirloom. Pass it on.

On 11/27/2025 at 1:03 PM, newapti5 said:

I agree the Chronarch would go first, but I’d hold on to the T3. 1. They are very smooth for carbon frame reels. 2. Magforce 3D is a unique design you just can’t find today. Located in the side plate, it complements the modern 34mm SV or SV Boost spools very nicely. 
 

If the zillion is the new zillion with all the “hyper” stuff, then I’d pick the zillion or the Steez A. The feel and function of those two are so similar, I’d only keep one (I gonna sell my Steez A soon). 
 

Then it’s probably the Met DC. It’s great but you already have the Met B. The Met DC is the chicken wing tips - it seems to be wasteful throwing them away but they don’t have much meat. Plus, you’d get a good offer from those who want to try DC reels.
 

Finally, TD-Zillion is an heirloom. Pass it on.

I personally like my T3 reels.  I don't abuse my gear.  The T3 isn't a reel I'd use on a frog rod.  However, from what I've read, it's a reel I might try converting to BFS as I have a 34mm BFS spool.  Magforce 3D is very hard to backlash.

 

My OG Zillions aren't going anywhere....especially the 50th Anniversary.  Neither is my Chronarch 100B.  Might be larger and heavier than new models...and I'm getting old...but it's a fine reel and I'm not so weak I can't use it for hours at a time.

T3’s and the Stradic.  

On 11/27/2025 at 12:31 AM, TimTheGearNerd said:

Hey all,

 

I have the following reels and I need to let go of some l but can’t decide which. I just have more than I would use. Seems like it would be better to put the money towards maybe an upgrade of some sort. I appreciate the help. 
 

Feel free to choose 5 or more you’d post for sale. If so inclined, share your reasoning. 
 

Metanium B DC 8:1

Daiwa T3 1016 7:1

Chronarch MGL 7:1

Team Daiwa Zillion 7:1

Zillion SV 7:1

Metanium B 6:1

Daiwa Lexa 5:1

First gen Tatula 6:1

Daiwa T3 1016 6:1

Steez a 6:1 26 IPT

Ultegra

Stradic FL 4000

Both T3's gone. Chronarch MGL gone. Zillions SV (i assume its the tatula framed ones?) gone. Lexa gone. First gen tats gone. No idea about both spinning reels since i don't use any.

On 11/27/2025 at 12:31 AM, TimTheGearNerd said:

Hey all,

 

I have the following reels and I need to let go of some l but can’t decide which. I just have more than I would use. Seems like it would be better to put the money towards maybe an upgrade of some sort. I appreciate the help. 
 

Feel free to choose 5 or more you’d post for sale. If so inclined, share your reasoning. 
 

Metanium B DC 8:1

Daiwa T3 1016 7:1

Chronarch MGL 7:1

Team Daiwa Zillion 7:1

Zillion SV 7:1

Metanium B 6:1

Daiwa Lexa 5:1

First gen Tatula 6:1

Daiwa T3 1016 6:1

Steez a 6:1 26 IPT

Ultegra

Stradic FL 4000

 

It's going to be hard for me to pick 5 that you should get rid of, but I'm going to try to pick ones I would minimally keep.

 

First, I'm keeping both spinning reels. I have three, but two would be my acceptable minimum if I was really trying to downsize.

 

I would keep Shimano reels for lures you just want to cast out and want max distance and aren't pitching or skipping, and Daiwa for anything you pitch or skip. Fortunately you have a nice combination here. 

 

I would keep the Steez A with 16# fluorocarbon for spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, swim jigs etc

 

I would keep the Metanium B for crankbaits, jerkbaits and other stuff you could run on 10# or 12# fluorocarbon.

 

I would keep the Zillion SV for jigs and t-rigs with 16# fluorocarbon.

 

I would keep the Chronarch MGL 8:1 and use it 10# or 12# mono for topwater.

 

I would keep the Metanium B DC for 12# fluorocarbon for T-Rigs.

 

I would keep the Team Daiwa Zillion and use it with 50-65# braid for frogs.

 

I would optionally keep the Daiwa T3 7.1:1 and run 16# fluocarbon and use it for T-Rigs when you want something a little heavier. Alternatively, you could run 14# on the Chromarch MGL and put something much heavier like 20# fluoro on the T3.

 

You're going to want a faster reel for prop baits with 14# or 17# mono. My personal take is it makes no difference if it's a good reel or not in function and I don't throw them often, but 6.1:1 reels cause my joints to hurt throwing them for a while.

 

This means I would get rid of the Lexa, first gen Tatula, and the 6.1:1 T3 and maybe the 7.1:1 T3, but I would be inclined to keep that one, and get one more cheap 7.1:1 or 8.1:1 for prop baits.

Keep Steez and OG Zillion. 

 

It's a catch 22.  Ones I'd sell also don't get much in the market right now.  I will say that thr performance of one of your reels after say a good cleaning and drag upgrade is nearly as good as what you can get from a new reel under say $200 msrp.

I would put them all for sale and stop and pull the advertisement, the moment the number of vacancies get to where you need it. 

On 11/27/2025 at 10:32 AM, PhishLI said:

Personally, and from a practical point of view, I'd send the older plastic bait casters packing before there's an issue. So, the T3s and Chronarch would go. Hard to say what else you should let go. No way the Steez A goes anywhere, IMO

Since when is a chronarch plastic?

5 hours ago, dodgeguy said:

Since when is a chronarch plastic?

Since about 2014.

 

I owned one and serviced it. They can call it carbon or carbon fiber, it isn't, or whatever they like, but it's essentially plastic. Had they embedded machine-screw metal inserts anywhere a screw was used like my less expensive chyna/Banax built Quantum Vapor does I might've kept it. For me this is strictly a servicing issue. Coarse self tapping screws cycled in and out of plastic over time are a potential failure point I'm not interested in. I tend to break down and lube my reels several times during a typical season.

 

Shimano also made this mistake with the Curado K having the gear-side side plate secured from the frame side with coarse self tappers. Looks better, but it isn't, IMO. They corrected this with the Curado 150 MGL and The Curado M with machine screws into the metal frame attaching their plastic side plates. I imagine failures recorded at service centers compelled them to make the change.

 

 

Shimano Chronarch CI4+ Product Review

 

Shimano Chronarch MGL Casting Reel Product Review

Stating composite is the same as plastic is true because composite uses some grade of polymer to bind the carbon fibers and that is where the similarity ends. 
Metal thread inserts are common to strengthen plastics thread strength. Self tapping screws should never be used when the product is subjected to being taken apart and re assembled.

If you fly a commercial aircraft today they are made with multiple composite parts to save weight.

Tom

 

16 hours ago, PhishLI said:

Since about 2014.

 

I owned one and serviced it. They can call it carbon or carbon fiber, it isn't, or whatever they like, but it's essentially plastic. Had they embedded machine-screw metal inserts anywhere a screw was used like my less expensive chyna/Banax built Quantum Vapor does I might've kept it. For me this is strictly a servicing issue. Coarse self tapping screws cycled in and out of plastic over time are a potential failure point I'm not interested in. I tend to break down and lube my reels several times during a typical season.

 

Shimano also made this mistake with the Curado K having the gear-side side plate secured from the frame side with coarse self tappers. Looks better, but it isn't, IMO. They corrected this with the Curado 150 MGL and The Curado M with machine screws into the metal frame attaching their plastic side plates. I imagine failures recorded at service centers compelled them to make the change.

 

 

Shimano Chronarch CI4+ Product Review

 

Shimano Chronarch MGL Casting Reel Product Review

Thanks i wasnt aware of this. Is my Lews custom lite equipped with inserts for the screws ? So far ive had  them 3 trouble free years.

On 12/2/2025 at 5:49 PM, dodgeguy said:

Is my Lews custom lite equipped with inserts for the screws ? So far ive had  them 3 trouble free years.

I don't know. If I had to guess, probably not, but maybe. I couldn't say whether Tanso is harder than Zion or CI4+, so I can't say how resistant it is to threads stripping out because of deformation due to torque or simply cycling from servicing.

 

Feeling the lead-in thread "click in" with metal frames and machine screws is obvious. It's less obvious with plastic frames that dampen that "click-in" feel. Combine that with the nature of coarse cutting threads of self-tappers that can begin cutting a new thread into an already threaded hole. The real key is avoiding that particular potential issue by being patient and deliberate when reinstalling those frame screws

 

Short of that I wouldn't worry much about any problem about the material.

All the blue highlighted reels.

Tom

On 12/2/2025 at 12:52 AM, PhishLI said:

Since about 2014.

 

I owned one and serviced it. They can call it carbon or carbon fiber, it isn't, or whatever they like, but it's essentially plastic. Had they embedded machine-screw metal inserts anywhere a screw was used like my less expensive chyna/Banax built Quantum Vapor does I might've kept it. For me this is strictly a servicing issue. Coarse self tapping screws cycled in and out of plastic over time are a potential failure point I'm not interested in. I tend to break down and lube my reels several times during a typical season.

 

Shimano also made this mistake with the Curado K having the gear-side side plate secured from the frame side with coarse self tappers. Looks better, but it isn't, IMO. They corrected this with the Curado 150 MGL and The Curado M with machine screws into the metal frame attaching their plastic side plates. I imagine failures recorded at service centers compelled them to make the change.

 

 

Shimano Chronarch CI4+ Product Review

 

Shimano Chronarch MGL Casting Reel Product Review

 

I have the MGL and haven't had an issue with it. I think I have had it 7 years now and I service it every year. I have it on a Loomis NRX+ 873 CCR and it's sort of a do all set up (topwater, spinnerbaits, jigs, Texas rid, etc) but I mainly use it for the free rig. I have put it through the wringer and it just keeps going. It casts well (especially after I put new Shimano bearings in it) and the retrieve is smooth as ever. 

 

The brand that has given me headaches with frame screws is Daiwa. Some have blue Loctite from the factory. It's the only reason I keep Loctite in my reel repair kit.