PhishLI

Nick, Due to where I usually fish, in no-boats lakes, I often end up fishing cranks with straight braid. I always have straight mono/copolymer/fluoro rigs with me, but there are plenty of times where I'm not into trudging back to shore to switch rigs. Sometimes I just don't want to make noise doing so. Either way, and because of this, I've fished a ton of wakes/cranks, jerkbaits on straight braid and fast rods. Not ideal, but drag set for the bait and a good thumb can overcome a lot. I have never broken anything on any of those baits ever, and I'm often getting snagged in lily pad stalks and super thick milfoil and need to rip the baits out. That's not to say that this couldn't happen, but I'm suggesting that this is quite rare. Rare enough not to worry about it. You're far more likely to loose a bait to a toothy fish. Besides that, leaders short enough to allow you to have the proper lure drop from the tip before a cast don't do all that much for shock. Better than nothing, but a long leader is much better. Also, I've had mono and fluoro leaders tied with uni-uni connections on my bass rods for months at a time. I've never broken one. Perhaps it happens, but it hasn't happened to me yet. The termination knot at the hook breaks first. Personally, I hate the sound of any connection knot going through my guides, so most of my rigs are straight-whatever-mainline, but if you feel like you need a leader, then do it, and don't worry about it. Most of the baits you're likely to throw on your particular 7MH are heavy enough to pull any connection knot through its guides without issue.

Awesome, man. The Fuego is a solid reel. Mine have been going strong for 4 years after being fished in tough water. It's a good idea to get some grease on the gears and some oil on the spool bearings. Keep it lubed and it'll keep on truckin. It isn't unusual for them to come out of the box on the dry side. Nobody knows why, but it's a thing these days. Yours might be an exception, but if you crack it open and it isn't, we'll get you through the process. It's a piece of cake with some tips and pictures.

Timely. This isn't a perfect solution, but one which has worked for me. I had trouble finding just the right weighted hook for Keitech Noisy Flapper toads. I didn't move heaven and earth looking, but I looked. Frustrated, and by chance, I lined up some Trokar 3/0 1/4oz Swim Blade hooks with the toad and found happiness size-wise. I lopped off the blade hanger, filed and hammered the lead a little, and have been using this rigging ever since. Just about to Frankenstein one for my new Big Bite toad. No problem getting this particular Keitech toad on plane and keeping it there. Pausing and letting it swim down with legs kicking has gotten bites also. We'll see if the BB toad is happy with this rigging. Perhaps there's a dead-ringer weighted hook in their line, or someone else's, but nothing I've found locally, and with this solution at hand, I 'aint buying a bunch of hooks and hoping for the best. This works for me. If nothing else, seeing this packaging and this hook rigged up might lead you down the right road.

Sure you did in your 1st post to this thread. You: "we don’t need every single detail of the setup to come to this conclusion" We? You mean you. "We" get to spitball around here without anyone attempting to govern us except the mods. Wanna be a mod? I've been been at this long enough to have seen where the simple answer isn't always "the" answer, especially with a new poster like the OP. Ultimately the knot might be the answer, which is fine with me, but look at what we've found out since he offered more info after being prompted. Cranking down spool tension on a Daiwa for one. Micro guides excluded. "We" get to ask for more info without it being suggested otherwise by new guys or old guys or anyone else. That's what you did right off the bat. Simple. Who are you or anyone else to suggest others shouldn't have asked questions? Seriously. I don't care if you have 20,000 posts or 10. Nobody does that around here. Pretty please, or just pretend to.

This last hour could be interesting anyway.

I'm actually interested in how this plays out for the OP, so I'm not going to say what I'd really like to. I don't want this thread to get locked. Suffice to say that you've added nothing to this thread other than to agree with what someone else took the time to write, then scolded others, including me, for questions you find extraneous. Who's actually annoyed here? You are. The OP wasn't at all. Isn't that interesting? You're free to add me to your ignore list. Fine with me. It's easy to do.

Breathe deeply. Exhale. You're new to "this" forum. You're a "new guy", new guy. Well, thanks for the invitation to log out. Please take the lead. I'm never annoyed. You seem annoyed that anyone would request as much info as possible, which would literally add up to a sentence or two. You're obviously against that, or are you some kind of word-efficiency cop? If you disagree, then we differ obviously. He got good advice. As we've come to find out the OP is basically new to baitcasters and this particular reel. He has no idea what his actual problem is yet. He's making an assumption at this point. Until we know more, so are you. ..and what type of underwear he has on. If he's overloading his rod with baits out of its range he's going to backlash. That's useful info, don't you think? Yes it is. We're going to find out what's what, maybe. Sometimes people simply disappear after a question.

Yes, we do, new guy. There aren't that many details to begin with. A few simple sentences from an OP can save a whole bunch of good people from typing a whole bunch of paragraphs for nothing.

Then perhaps you should ditch the leader for a quick minute and establish if this is simply rather normal growing pains with a new-to you bait caster. It may have nothing to do with a leader knot. You're physic. I knew it.

Were you having this issue before you tied on a leader, or was it smooth sailing and backlash free? Does your nameless rod have micro guides?

Yes. You're not including all of the details about your setup, and I mean all. We can dig them out of you slowly, painfully, reply after reply, and in between go off on tangents about dog grooming and auto repair, or you can just give us the juice in full detail right up front and skip the messes. Rod and it's ratings. Model # with action and power. The weight of the baits you are trying to cast with it. The reel's settings. Spool tension and braking.

I stick with Daiwa spinners, but for bait casters: Multiple Daiwas Multiple Quantums Multiple Lew's Multiple Shimanos I'll have an Okuma Hakai and a Savage Gear SG6 soon. If I keep a reel there's probably something about it that I find to be very good. Some are special, IMO. If you bumped into me at the lake while I'm carrying my usual 6 rods, you'd see a mix of the above mentioned brands.

That's for sure. He sort of faded away after he chucked the Steez LTD across his table. Now all we're left with is the distance casting Shimano monkey who changes only one spool bearing for tests. Oy. But it's a mag brake, Dodge. Will you need to see a therapist first??

When you're looking for feedback from the group on a rig-specific question, it's helpful to include the line you're using. This matters in your case. My personal preference in most rods I own are models that run on the stiffer side. My 7'1" MF rated up to 5/8oz tilts that way. During the prespawn here, while the weeds are low and floating algae hasn't yet become an issue for trebles, I use it with a reel spooled with 10lb-12lb Trilene Big Game for WP 75s, squarebills, and jerkbaits, Big Game's stretch and this particular rod work well together to set and keep trebles pinned while never feeling overloaded by a lure like the WP 75. I adjust drag to hook diameter. Now that we're overgrown here, I really can't throw those baits anymore, but I'm using the same rod with a reel spooled with straight 30lb braid for small paddle tail swimmers and toads. The hooks I choose for these baits aren't fine wire like trebles. I need a heavier hook to pull fish out of pad fields, and through weeds and slop. The nature of this particular rod combined with braid work well together for setting those heavier hooks at the end of a long cast, then bringing fish in. As @Deleted account alluded to, rod ratings are all over the place. Company A's MF isn't necessarily the same thing as company B's MF, and on and on. However, you can successfully balance and adapt a setup with your choice of line. With that choice, you can tune around the nature of a particular rod, then successfully fish it with different types of baits.

I won't go there in order to avoid helping your thread spiral into the abyss, because that's what'll happen. The difference in line diameter of .001-.002" isn't going to mean chit if you don't figure out how to manage a Curado K's heavy-ish fully loaded spool with your thumb. If you can't figure that out, there are no magical answers if you're set on Shimano reels with SVS Infinity braking. Things get better with MGLs, but not necessarily easier. Master a Curado K, and you'll do well with their better offerings. If you can't, look elsewhere, because they're just not for you. You can oil the brakes, turn on all the brake blocks, dance the hokey pokey, say a prayer, but if you're not thumb heavy with it fishing it specifically as you've described, the K will give you what you've got now.

Tried Plat?

Line type isn't the issue whatsoever. It's your thumb. In general, regardless of which reel you have, if you're target casting with a flat trajectory, you need to ride the spool. This means releasing only enough thumb pressure for the lure to fly, but never enough for the spool to throw up loops. If you get loops or fluff, your thumb is too far away from the spool. Until you get the drift of this, adding a dash of spool tension will help your cause. Back it off when you feel like you're able to, or don't if you can't get by without it. The spool tension police won't come to git ya. If you're having this issue even on higher arc distance casting, do the same thing. Ride the spool. IMO, the Curado K requires more user input than any of the MGL reels near it's price point. It's a pain to dial in to begin with, and simply requires more of your attention second by second. Think of it this way, fish with it this way, and it's a fine reel with lots to like.

Real question: Have you fished with one? It's called a Tatula, but it really isn't in the traditional sense. It's built more like a higher end Daiwa. Like a tank. Opinions..I have both the Tranx 300 and 400. I prefer the Tat 300, especially with heavy plastic main line.

Tat 300. Very solid feeling reel. You'll like it.

But this is probably using a hybrid double pinion support. If so, like the Tat 300, this isn't your dad's Tatula.

I'm literally the furthest thing from a ned expert. Fishing at a local pond I've had 2 rods set up using the same line, but one with a green pumpkin trd, and one with coppertruese. About 3 ft of visibility. Not a whiff on the grn/pump. Every bite and fish caught came on coppertruese. Same thing at a bigger place a few miles away. Could be that they've grown resistant to green pumpkin at this point. I'll keep trying both.

They didn't name it Tatula. No free floating spool, so the double supported pinion is probably using the same scheme as the Tatula 300 with a bearing mounted on the spool. Cool. HYPER DOUBLE SUPPORT- a two bearing support system for the reel's pinion gear means no flex and an ultra smooth retrieve/ gear rotation.

Sometimes. Maybe. I fish with a few people who have excessive gear buying habits. Top of the line down to the bottom. Like anyone else who's interested in a topic, I have detailed recall about it, so I'm pegged as the gear expert, even though I'm just a regular schmuck. Some people like an "expert's" blessing, so quite often I get to try out this stuff for myself. Quite often what has them thrilled doesn't feel special to me regardless of cost, but it feels special to them. I'm never baffled though. No judgments made by me whatsoever because I understand how personal any rod or reel is, or can be. Some people really don't care what they use. Perhaps they're lucky in that respect. Some people can quite successfully adapt to any tool at their disposal. Most people can at least adapt, and do. Regardless, ask away, especially if you don't have the opportunity to feel something in person.

Had some DSG gift cards, so I got some stuff. New chest waders, etc. I'm finally feeling the Ned rig since picking up some weedless ewg ned bullet head hooks. I can actually get these through the forest of weeds I fish in which is impossible with shroom heads. After just a handful of dinks, I'm already fantasizing about chasing down one of @Team9nine's intergalactic Ned rig records.? The Googan Neds with rattles look interesting, and I've been doing well with Zman coppertruese TRDs, so more is better.

Not those. A few baits that tend to spin are better used with a swivel. Aside from those, spinning reels twist line. Just the nature of the beast. If you'd like to get away from that issue, learn to use a baitcaster. They're not without their own challenges in the beginning, but in general, line twist isn't one of them.