txchaser

Blue light blocker glasses work too. I have a theory on the Okeechobee color - I see a lot of craws with blue on their raised parts of their claws and shells, and a dark color on the rest. Looks really similar to blue flake. I like netbait's kentucky special even more. GP top, dark-red/scuppernong/maroon bottom, with blue flake on the bottom. Sometimes it's like a light switch.

GPSmap, LVS 34 Seems to be kind of laggy or jumpy when I move the trolling motor. Maybe I need to turn the sensitivity down on the foot pedal? Not a boat I'm used to, haven't seen it on other boats but perhaps somethings different. Ideas?

In general, advice here on BR. In specifics: 1) @WRB's comment about the idea of 'adult fish' - when they get big they behave differently in some important ways. 2) @Catt's comment about the intersection of the thermocline and structure holding bigger fish.

My best guess is because of the lack of blue cones, they have a hightened ability to percieve shades and hues in the colors they can see.

Buy shipped and sold by Amazon, and if they aren't sellers or don't have the best price, pick a name you know that's a legit store/company.

Rate of fall is pretty high, they seem to catch nice fish for me. But I don't use them with a steady retrieve, more reel/stop or yoyo.

+1 on both of the comments for slowing down with hard jerkbaits also, more subtle twitches than just hard jerks while you are trying to figure them out. once you see a jerkbait on livescope you'll realize how what feels like a medium movement is really pretty far.

I'm probably four or five 1000 yard tatsu spools from amazon and they have all been legit so far. I am careful about buying stock from amazon (ships from and sold by amazon on the right hand side of the page) or from a seller that I know. The other sellers below. I would buy from optics planet or departure. I wouldn't buy from superdeals. Some products have bin mixing, some don't. I don't know on tatsu. Anyway it is a good risk to take - if it's not good it is dead easy to send back.

That's the swimbait-level spinnerbait. As mentioned before, 1.5 and 2.0oz. If I could buy one for $35 I would, because it's a tough to replicate presentation otherwise. But we have a lot of gizzard shad eaters in Texas. Only other thing I could jam in a bunch of wood like that is a 6" swimbait... way less flash though.

The owner flipping hook change put my hookup at nearly 100% this season, and that made a big difference because this was by far the best bottom contact presentation this summer.

Yes Invisx has more stretch.

I mostly use tatsu. If I had a spool of invisx around I'd use it on cranking setups, the stretch difference is noticeable to me, and a little more give especially on smaller hooks is usually a good thing.

Change the presentation of the same lure first. Faster/slower, let that swimjig fall all the way to the bottom and sit for a bit. Look at the next deepest and shallowest stopping place, like the next dropoff on the way out, or the inside weed edge, on those nearby spots just throw the original stuff. You can probably hit this without moving the boat. Throw something really big/loud, small/quiet. Probably start with whatever matches the vibe of the bite on the swimjig - if they are smoking it hard, go big/loud to start (example - a 6" soft swimbait); if they are barely mouthing it then small/quiet.

Just a few. No biggie.

I check bassforecast regularly when I fish. It can be a good reminder of places or presentations I forgot. I figure for the price of a few lures it doesn't have to get me on too many fish every year to be worth it. The solunar data is very precise, if that's your thing. I think there's something to it, especially the 'minor' windows. Historical weather data is useful too - looking at the weather at that location for the few days prior to when I fish can help. Also, there's a pinned post around here somwhere with free lake maps, which can be very helpful in planning.

For the next person across this thread, the LMH is pretty much perfect for 3.8 Keitech fat on a 3/0 owner underspin.

Three things come to mind: 1 - in really small waters, your first cast is often your best shot at a big one. Plan and move accordingly. 2 - stop fishing and start hunting. Imagine you are hunting a single fish. The big one. There's probably a 'best' spot on the lake for that one fish. Feeding flat near deep water, or a big submerged log or bush near deep water. Best ambush point, etc. 3 - Treat larger fish like a different species. They really are different. Apex predator; they can literally eat the size fish you are catching. They've been around a while and are likely more sensitive to noise, splashes, etc... decent chance they've been caught before and didn't like it. Bonus - cloudy, windy days up your odds. Wednesdays up your odds.

High effort post. Thank you!

5/0 will work. 3/0 is a better fit though. +1 for the post above suggesting to change out the CPS spring for one size larger.

I bought an 'excellent' rod from them and it looked like 'new no tags' to me. I'd buy from them again.

Yep. A few for the list: 6th sense munch Keitech 3.3 on an underspin

Thank you @roadwarrior

Fish that same rig from the outside edge of the grass to about 10' from the grass. They'll move in and out of that grass depending on mood, sunlight etc. Punching takes a while to get the hang of but once it happens, oh boy it's hard to go back. I agree that you may need heavier weight - if your lure is making it through the grass then you don't need more though. This winter you'll be able to map out where the grass is and see if your catches correlate to structure changes. They probably will. Also I find that fishing in the deep grass is long spells of nothing and then you might pull four big fish out of a spot the size of your kayak.

Oh boy... they make that color in many of their lures. Looks dangerous.

+1 for mend-it as a bonus, IMO really beat up plastics look more natural also, upsizing your CPS spring if you are using that style hook. the default ones they come with are always one size too small