txchaser

If you feel like trying something new, Sufix Advance is really good on the low-stretch front. It's got some fibers in it from braid (HDPE). It's hard when they hit it from behind no matter what you are using though.

Best take that lady some peach cobbler or pie. I remember your post when you lost access. I was feeling for you big time.

My range of baits is now 2" to 10", and I'm in Texas. One of the big fish guys mentioned something almost in passing, that really got my attention - most of the lures presented to fish are between 3" and 7" so if you are trying to catch bigs, keep that in mind. So I default to big, bigger, and biggest as much as I possibly can. In fairness, we have gizzard shad so it's not crazy. And I have a crappie rig tied up now, but I think that's really a winter bass deal. The exception is a bladed jig, but even there I'm experimenting with a big blade bladed jig with a 7" fluke as a trailer.

Don't like: Willow blade spinnerbaits. I just always can get better fish with something else, usually a bladed jig. (blade color matters on a bladed jig don't get fooled). Or an underspin/keitech. Like but shouldn't: 6th sense hangover. Everyone hates this thing. My average weight begs to differ, a lot. It is a big presentation, and it is finicky. The slow sink is nearly worthless, but I have at least five of the fast sink. The top-hook treble line through means very few lost fish. Take off the split ring, always use a bobber stop above the knot.

On the gar identification, I watched a video that said bass look like cheetos, gar look like sticks, catfish look like a slug. It's kinda true. Getting better at noticing what I'm about to catch, especially inside 50' - bass are pretty obvious vs a gar or a catfish. It isn't perfect, but I think I'm wasting fewer casts. Still caught gar though - sometimes the return is just too big and I have to throw at it. It's wild, in Texas at 80 degree water a bunch of these fish are deep, like 20'. Sooner than I expected and not all of them, but the offshore fish are there too. Still am near-zero skill at when that odd looking blob on the bottom is worth throwing four or five things at it to get it to bite. This weekend, big swimbaits and a-rigs and damiki were not pulling those fish off the bottom at all. Couple of halfhearted attempts at a carolina rig, but the only fish I caught off the bottom were ones that would rocket up to eat mid-column stuff.

At this point anything with hyperdrive is like another class of reel. I bought the new tat200 for a soft swimbait reel. It's as smooth as the zillion. Like "oh I forgot to even turn up the drag when I got it" level smooth.

Geecrack's Neko Hack really works. Especially when you are rigging something oddly shaped that an o-ring doesn't fit. Get a little bit bigger size than you would normally pick. I think they made them for the Bellows Gill. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Geecrack_Neko_Hack_Soft_Bait_Rigging_Accessory/descpage-GNHS.html

Bought another JDM tat 100, they are comically cheap relative to alternatives and the hyperdrive gears are zillion-smooth. And a new tat 200 with the new gears for a soft swimbait rod.

the site has a sale thread!

FYI the JDM 100 that's like $110 has aluminum alloy gears. I can't say I have ever heard about anyone tearing them up; the japanese prefer a lighter reel so you get some ounces of savings.

https://www.wildlifemanagementpro.com/2009/09/21/bass-fishing-with-rattlesnake-for-bait/ This story is so wild it feels made up. But he has pics.

I've fished the rod (a friends) with 1/2oz chatterbaits and it is really nice. It is optimized for how the bait accelerates on a clearing snap, and for pinning fish. I don't think it's well-built for a rattletrap if you are really burying it up in the grass. It is still on clearance, but no longer on daily deal. Check the sale thread for additional discount.

Many of the manufacturers source from all over the world, and their approach isn't going to be raising the price on just a few things, it'll be a smaller price raise across the board. So some items won't really be profitable but others will have extra profit. The example they used was (when the 145 tariffs were on) that soft plastics would cost a bunch more than a spinnerbait. And on top of that there are mixed costs depending on how much they already had in stock at the old price. Last item was some worry that some of the bigger brands might use it as an excuse to just jack pricing way out of proportion. No data here, just concern.

100% Got my "spinning rod PB" this year scoping and was an epic fight. I was really glad I had a nice reel with great drag. The fish and I were both wiped out at the end of it.

Glad to hear you are making progress. The Bass Forecast app does a pretty good job of dialing in location and bait selection, generally giving you three types of spots to fish and five baits. But for the FFS wins, when you look at what the app is saying and the top 10 in a tourney, there's a lot of overlap. Oh it'll also tell you the speed to fish. It's not magic, but it's usually right, and it doesn't cost much to see if it works for you. Alternatively, the 'get a guide for a day' advice given above is very very good. Tell them you want to learn how to fish the lake more than you care about catching a bunch of fish. I did three days of this for FFS (technique vs lake, but the point is the same) and I think it put me a year of water time ahead of my starting place.

I have some wire tie jigs and the skirt flare is noticeably smaller than the flare on rubber collar jigs. Is there a 'best way' regain some of that rubber collar flare without ripping the jig apart and having both?

Nearly any reasonably good quality reel will be fine. I've used tatula SV which is seriously built for the opposite of this. Worked fine. Tatula 100, worked fine. With that said, the JDM only Zillion HD is built for frogging. Big handle and knobs, built like a tank. I never want to go back. @woolleyfooley look for 8.1x or higher. It's nice to get the frog back fast over water you aren't going to fish. But IMO it doesn't matter that much really. Yeah pick the 8 if you are buying a reel just for this presentation. Otherwise don't sweat it.

There was a pretty good discussion of the intersection of the fishing industry and the tariffs on one of the fishing podcasts recently. Probably tackle talk. Their source was talking to tackle manufacturers on a no-names basis. Great to know about de minimus only being china for now!

Garmin has a solution for this, but it's not for everyone. Takes a lot of work and consistency. Barring that, try turning your back on the dog after you've told them to drop a couple of times. "This is not ok and you are getting no attention at all until you make the right choice" - works pretty well for some dogs. Then praise the drop and re-engage when they do drop it.

100% yes, and a recent experience reminded me why - I fished the right bait on the wrong rod, and it contributed to the loss of a monster. But now I have stacks of "generic" MH/F actions that I don't really have a use for. I need three not 13.

Reflection from a recent drive home: Every year that goes by my line gets a little thinner and my rods get a little lighter or softer/more flexible. Just something I have been thinking about as I've skilled up over time. I'm in Texas so it's relative - from 20lb (tatsu diameter) to 17lb to now I'm starting to spool a lot of 15 as the default. And the only thing that gets braid to leader is a spinning rod. The one exception are things like fishing around timber, I'm going right back up, maybe to 22.

As long as the baits aren't standing on end they will be fine. Laying on their side is just fine. I have keitechs 2+ years old in a waterproof box and no kinks.

Keep in mind that at 3lbs, a bass can eat the fish you are catching. And absolutely will too. I have swimbaits that size that 3lb fish will go out of their way to try to choke down. If they can fit it in their mouth they can and will eat it. Baby ducks, rats, other bass, red-wing blackbirds, young catfish, gizzard shad, etc. They really don't care when they are hungry. Watch how the bigs look after a little bit. If they stay healthy then nothing to worry about. In terms of the bigs not biting, probably prespawn funk. Get out there in the 8+ range mid-column on on the bottom and you may find something bigger. two vids: https://packaged-media.redd.it/1tu96pwwtqza1/pb/m2-res_1080p.mp4?m=DASHPlaylist.mpd&v=1&e=1746691200&s=815361ccf3488d34c5dfce4d464ee0473a78eb77

USA-made/small manufacturer - Kistler Trey and Reuben are super helpful and seem to be solid people trying to deliver a great product. I have something like 12 rods from them. Go-to for anything with a fast or xf tip. Haven't been able to find a better bottom contact rod this side of $500. And their nitranium rod is probably my heaviest used rod at this point. MBR-style action, LMH for flatside 75x or keitech/owner underspin, MH for 1/2oz chatterbaits. Mainline - Daiwa exceedingly good customer service which is the opposite of their main competitor. Never been disappointed. Special situation - St Croix has a 7'5" mod-fast in the SCV (maybe SCVI? It's a legend x) blank that is absolutely amazing for mid-depth and deep cranks. I don't like fiberglass, feels like everything is dead. This thing is wicked sensitive. The rod loads up right with a wide range of cranks and big 7M+ cranks too, and pins fish really well.

I've been looking around and my best guess is one of the factories in china cut over to this style, because Kastking and a bunch of random brands are selling the same waterproof style, one latch, clear top.