txchaser

I use this rod in H for swimjigs, mostly throwing 1/2oz. MH would either be the MH version of this, or the Daiwa "R" action which comes in a few lengths in the tatula elite non-ags. And Kage if you want the cork-handled version. IMO the tip is a little softer on the Daiwa than the Kistler. The ratio of landed fish went up for me with a mod-fast or R action over a F/XF. Even more important if you are using braid; I mostly don't use braid on swimjigs anymore though - grass is heavy but I'm either high up in the column or on outside weed edge so 20lb flouro is fine. Same rod you'd use for a bladed jig excels with a medium hook swimjig, maybe a little light for a heavy hook swimjig.

Sometimes going the opposite way will get results - had a few days this summer where violently ripping a big bait in the water column would trigger a bite when they were following but couldn't get any commits.

I fish all day, all summer long, in Texas. It's hot here y'all. But there's almost always a thermal breeze on the lakes in north texas so that helps. I experimented with just about every brand/style/type of clothing at this point, and the current winners are both by Huk, and both are newer releases. There's more expensive stuff (Simms), less expensive stuff (magellan etc) and neither of them are close in terms of what it feels like to actually wear. Anetik and Huk A1A are absolutely great in places where you can expect solid wind - they are the most breathable but don't have cooling dots. Huk Icon shirt (older Icon X is #2) - has thumb loops too which is nice. It absolutely has a cooling effect you can feel when you put it on. Shirt color matters. Light blue or white. Light blue/white camo probably the best tradeoff between not being seen and not burning up. Huk Creek Channel Pants (Simms Ultralight are #2) - most pants don't breathe well, if at all. These do, and they have vents too. If you aren't commando-style, make sure your underpants are wicking. Boonie hat and gloves. Exposed skin is a no-no for staying cool, if it is in direct sun. Because of the big brim I can get away with no buff until the late afternoon sun. Hat goes in the water from time to time and when it comes back it dumps some water down the shirt too. Electrolytes will make a huge difference in how you feel. I prefer ones with little or no sugar - the current favorite are LMNT sparkling. They have a huge amount of salt and magnesium and potassium. Shoes and socks matter. Lightest cheapest socks I can find (wool socks are great! but not here) and the most breathable tennis-shoe I can get, which at the moment is by On Running. Cooling towels are cheap, and they really work. When you take a drink out of the cooler, set it between your legs. Yeah, it isn't comfy at first but you've got two big arteries there moving a lot of blood.

Do it. Please. You won't even notice you have it on.

I am in no way WRB/Tom, but if I saw that it'd get a waypoint. That whole flat and the area around it looks bassy. In fairness I have no idea where that is on the lake, what else is around it, etc. But I'd treat it like a very solid big fish spot in summer/winter/early prespawn.

Plano's heavy duty bags are pretty good for soft baits if you want waterproof.

https://www.amazon.com/High-Percentage-Fishing-Statistical-Improving/dp/1517384206 A forum member wrote a book about this question, based on large-scale statistics. It is a really good read and 10x more valuable than a couple bags of senkos, which is what it costs.

You are correct. Definitely worth shopping around for it, I think I got mine on the bay and saved $50 or so. I did my sync with a microSD that I popped into the fish finder. And then did all the signin stuff you mention above. Maybe there's a digital only version, but if there was it was the same price. FYI It is a regional license so be sure you are getting the right one. There is also a yearly fee, but you might not need that unless you want map updates. On lakes, I haven't found the relief shading to be that useful, but I can see in your view where it would make a difference.

Search for "tiny child rig" in the search bar above.

I just got one too (thanks TW sale) and I love it. Pretty soft tip gives it a wide range, and it pins fish well. I haven't fished deep cranks on it but between the length and the upper weight range, it is well suited for that. Should throw deps 145-ish baits well too. Throws 1.25oz jackhammers with a zako just fine. If I had a single complaint, it's hard to clear a lot of grass off a bladed jig vs a stiffer rod... but that's to be expected. If it isn't a daiwa rod it is at least their blank. One of the tags on it had a bunch of daiwa stuff.

Agree on starting with Invisx. From time to time it is pretty inexpensive (vs normal price) on Amazon.

I wish I could use a left handed reel, especially on short pitch work. It just feels so odd to me on a baitcaster. I think I just need to work on the left handed pitch instead.

1 Zillion HD 1 Zillion SV Both JDM

For what it's worth, the TW video about it they said it's more forgiving than a regular 100 on the cast. I don't exactly know what that means technically, but they were yakking with a Daiwa project manager about it.

Hayabusa gap is really big - I have them for Fat Ikas.

I had a friend that went through the full process for a commercial reel. It's possible to just do a label application, but what most are doing are speccing down to the detail what they want, and the manufacturer builds it for them. If I recall correctly the dies are around $200k, so it isn't a trivial project. These reel manufacturers are pretty sophisticated operations and, at least at the manufacturing step, you get what you pay for is the lay of the land. I think rods/blanks are a bit more complicated or have space for innovation. On the blank front, there's a relatively new blank company in Texas; I think the guys running it are from the industry though, so it's not their first rodeo. I don't have any rods that use their blanks though, so no feedback.

Bunch of $100+ dobyn's rods on amazon now that are on sale + have coupon that will be in your price range. Top pic for me. Next after that is the often mentioned Daiwa Aird-X. MH/F (or MH/R if Daiwa) are your best do-all.

I've gone full circle: started with a CD case bought the plano 3700 spinnerbait box moved on to the plano edge (big square) and now... back to a CD case. In fairness, I carry a bunch, but rarely fish anything other than a big colorado.

Mend-it will fix the trashed one in the pic, if you can find the tail. Barring that, change baits - try the biospawn exoswim or a z-man bait.

It should have a default couple of color palettes, just use one of those, whatever lets your brain see the lake. With one exception - you can often figure out that you want to target a certain depth, either because of the depth you saw bait or where the thermocline is. You can set a highlight color on that depth and zoom out a little and use it to look for good structure that intersects that depth.

I picked up a couple of the dobyn's spinning rods that were on sale and had a coupon on top of that. Smokin' deal. Shipped directly from dobyns and well packaged.

I know myself well enough to know that if I get the vibe to try something and I have to stop and dig another rod out, it's probably not going to happen. I do run paper-clip style clips on the jerkbait, short crank, and long cranking rods. I forgot carolina rig in my rod list above. That's definitely one I want setup already. The backdrop is that I like to experiment though. I'm known to take a bait that's working well and immediately put it down and start trying something else to see if I can learn something.