LAO162

Thanks, now I've got to go around the house asking myself, "Can I sell that?" And then, "Would anyone buy this?" :)

Thanks RW, assuming I don't need the weight savings, would I be missing out on superior line management etc. if I stuck with FI? In all honestly, I don't get enough time at the water to notice the nuances that you would. Also, will the CI4 accept the spools from the FI or other Shimano models?

Maybe there's a business opportunity here. Offering insurance on rods that carry only a 90 day or 1 to 5 year warranty. Any actuaries here? LOL ;D Speaking objectively, I'd love to fish with a Z-Bone. But, I can't afford spend $400 on a rod without the insurance policy. I guess I also can't spend $500 for a rod with a lifetime breakage insurance policy either However, I'd like to hear more discussion about the attributes of the rod Knowing how well the LTX performs, I can only imagine how nice the Z-Bone LE would be. For Kistler Fans I think the real discussions will be comparing the LTA, Z-Bone ST, LTX and Z-Bone LE. With the higher modulus blank and and embedded insurance policy, I suspect many Kistler fans will still favor the LTX over the Z-Bone ST.

I'm extremely happy with my Exceler & Tierra. They both trump my Stradic FH due to casting & line management. I'd also consider a Coastal or Advantage. In all honesty, I'd probably be pleased with a Cabela's Prodigy However, I'm trying to get reacquainted with the Shimano spinning line. I'm hoping this year to have enough to purchase a Stradic FI, but so far I'm not sure that I'd see enough of a performance boost to justify the additional funds for something like a CI4 or Sustain. Here I'm trying to get a feel for how the different Shimanos perform at the water. Some features look great on paper, but may not translate to superior results... I also think two spools are important because I switch between #6 and #10 line. I'm welcome to direct PERFORMANCE comparisons with reels by other manufacturers, but I'm not interested in a manufacturer discussion. I'm hoping the Shimano posse will point me to the best performance values in their line-up There's never enough data for me. As an analyst by trade, I'd like as many experiences as possible. Thanks

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm definately putting Dobyn's on my list for consideration. The Cumara was already there Since I just ordered a new 7'0" MH, I'm now thinking that I may look at something dedicated to Frogs, Toads & Small Swimbaits. However, it may take a while unless I suddenly sell a bunch of stuff. The "accountant" just gave the Baitmonkey a [well deserved] scolding ;D ;D

I could use advice from the folks who have used these reels for a length of time. I have been considering the sale/trade of my Stradic 2500FH because I can consistently get better casting distance from my Tierra. However, rather than moving to another Tierra, I think I should also consider the new Shimano spinning models. I assume that all of these models are smooth and reliable like the FH) How do these different models compare in terms of line management & casting distance (or other important factors)? Is there any need to spend the extra funds for a Sustain FE or Stradic FI if the actual performance is not significantly better than the Saros or the old Stradic FH. Thanks! Leon

Do you think a Stradic 2500FI spinning reel would be to fast? If not, the E7 would be fine. The Stradic 2500FI has a IPT of 34." Sometimes I'm surprised that there is so much concern about the gear ratio of baitcasters, but so little discussion as it pertains to spinning reels. Since I fish only a couple hours a week it is not a big deal for me to speed up or slow down. It also means I may not recognize the nuances as it pertains to technique However, my preference is to crank slower than really fast. I think the difference with a 4.7 reel at 19 IPT and a 7.3 reel at 33 IPT would be a big difference. However, my technique is not developed enough to recognize the difference between 27 & 30 IPT. I hope that I am able to dectect the actual bait speed through sight and sensation of the lure through the rod.

Somewhere between the contractual pricing and agreements with NFC it may have been infeasible to add the [lifetime] warranty insurance at a reasonable price. Thus, Kistler may have felt the product was more appealing to sell at a lower price point, than to embed the lifetime warranty insurance prices into the new product price. Thus, it is possible that a $400 rod might have cost as much as $500 to include the insurance. That said, I'm pretty conservative and insure almost everything. I would prefer to spend more for a product with a better warranty. I cannot get personally upset with Kistler because they are launching a new product with a different pricing (no embedded insurance). I just won't buy it if I'm uncomfortable with the breakage risks relative to the product's value as a tool. On the other hand, I would be quite upset if there was a significant decrease in the lifetime warranty coverage of products that have already been sold. Admittedly, I would like to see a more precise description of the warranty coverage and obligations from Kistler. They are rather vague by MY standards. On the other hand, I've been able to purchase Kistlers at prices low enough to offset my discomfort with the constant changes in their business model. Wow, these rods are great!! (two Argons, one Helium 2, and another Helium 2 due to arrive this week). I guess I am no longer unbiased

I tend to check that auction site a couple times a month for the MG51. They've gradually been going up in price over the past 6 months. However, I think this is first time where I haven't seen at least one 51MG listed They must be getting hard to find...

I fish primarily from the bank in the Northeast. When I was younger, I did a lot of brook fishing for trout where there was a lot of brush along the banks. If your creeks are open and free of brush and overhanging trees, a 6'6" or longer rod will be fine. However, if you are casting around trees, bushes, tall grass, etc. you first may want a shorter rod with a short handle that is convenient for casting one-handed around obstacles while simultaneously balancing on three toes In some ways, I still think like a "brook trout" guy. Leon

I should have added that the MG51 also allows me to do quite well with 1/4 - 3/8 oz small, shallow cranks. It is very forgiving for my skill level. Admittedly, for the greatest casting distance with light crankbaits, I still resort to my spinning gear.

On auction sites, the Shimano Chronarch MG50/51 are going for aout $200. It weighs 5.9 oz and has a shallow, light spool. It feels perfect on my 5'6" MF rod and casts Senkos and Fat Ikas beautifully. From Daiwa, the Sol is also considered a finesse reel. Newer reels with duel brakes that are also under 7.0 oz are the Revo Premiere, and on the inexpensive side, the new BPS CarbonLite (oops RH only) reel.

I assume KVD does not intend to pond fish with me So, my most useful pond rod will not come along (IMX SJR723). - Kistler Helium II LTX 7'0" Spinning w/ Daiwa Tierra 2500 - Kistler Helium II LTX 6'9" Casting w/ Browning Midas 7.1

If it's new this year, send it back to BPS. Double check their policy, but basically, send it back with their packing form for an exchange and also a note asking for an exchange and reimbursement for return shipping. They returned a new Midas to me in < 2 weeks along with a check for my shipping. Limited use, but so far I really like the Browning. Enough to sell a couple other popular reels.

A quality Medium power rod should be able to haul a large fish out of open water. However, that may not be the case if you are also pulling in another 8 lbs of grass & weeds. On the other hand, a MH power rod with tons of backbone may not load and cast well with small 1/4 oz baits such as shallow cranks or small twitch baits. Even a 7'6" MH rod may not cast shallow crankbait was well as a 6'9" Medium if it is not loading appropriately. I was recently given the advice of medium action for open water to moderate cover, and MH for heavy cover. When I was looking a crankbait rod, I did not consider many popular MH models because the lure rating started at 3/8 oz. Most of the baits I throw are in the 1/4 to 3/8 oz range...

Even though I don't flip, would a decent flipping rod be a decent compromise for Frogs, Toads, Swimbaits and occasional C-Rig?a or, are they typically too stout?

With these techniques, I also assume some compromise will need to be made in the stiffness of tip as well as the power. Regarding the length, from my limited experience with an IMX rod, I'm assuming that a MBR844C would launch a 3/4 oz lure as far as many longer rods that do not load as well. So far, I'm not (yet) blown away by the sensitivity of my SJR723 IMX, but I am extremely impressed by how far it will throw a Fat Ika - hence my belief that rod length is only part of the casting distance equation I am increasingly becoming interested in Dobyns rods due to the split grip option. Thanks for all the ideas to keep me thinking

MBR844C Hmmm. Might need to place a couple Techna AV's on the Flea Market... It would be pretty hard to pull the trigger and finish that fore sale post. On the other hand, I certainly like the idea of any extremely versatile rod. Got me thinking

An mbr844c would certainly be an increase in power and length relative to anything I have now. It is also outside of my current budget, but it could be doable if I post some items on the flea market I'm also wondering if I need to dedicate that much of my overall budget to a rod that would get only occasional use. I can see having a sensitive rod for T-Rigs & Jigs, but I'm not sure if it is necessary for the other techniques.

Is there one type of rod that can be used for for T-Rig, C-Rig, Toads, Frogs & Small Swimbaits?? Currently, I the best rod I have for these techniques is a Kistler LTX 6'9" MH. However, I don't have any rods over 7'0". Because I fish from the bank around a lot of brush and under trees, I have been hesitant to invest in a rod that would not be optimal for my environment. Also, due to the conditions where I fish, flipping & pitching are not in my bag of tricks. However, if one rod would cover each of the T-Rig, C-Rig, Toads, Frogs & Small Swimbaits situations better than my current rods, I might consider investing in an all purpose long rod. Thanks

If you compare the entire 2010 lineup vs. the 2009 lineup, you can see that it has been simplified greatly. If you have very specific needs that aren't available in one of the remaining standard configurations, you'll need to go the custom or Z-Bone route. It's kind of like going from the Toyota format where there are many models, multiple levels and dozens of options to the Honda business model where there are basically a handful on packages from which to choose. The Honda business model definitely makes it easier to manage inventory and streamline manufacturing. Whether or not it's purely a new emphasis by Kistler to focus upon the Z-Bone and customization, it is a business decision to simplify their standard offerings. From a purchasers perspective, it may be risky to purchase a closeout Argon. On the other hand, the huge discounts may be incentive to take a chance. Although I personally prefer to purchase products from companies that have stable product lines from year to year, I don't think I could have purchased rods as nice as the Argon without the steep discounts due to the constantly changing product line. If they do well for me next year, next Spring I'll be searching for the discontinued 2010 models

I'd skip the dedicated spinnerbait rod and spend more on the worm rod. You can use it for the spinnerbaits. By spending an extra $50 you can move into whole new level of worm rods, not that there's anything wrong with the Triumph But, at $100 plus there's a slew of new rods and a bunch of classics on closeout. FOr instance, if *** still has it, consider the All Star Platinum MF Spinning rod at <$70. It will handle most of your non-cranking needs. Leon

I wasn't that far off in my estimate. Sounds like a great value I guess I have to open the can of Senkos... How would the performance of asuper tuned Revo S compare to a stock, cleaned & lubed Curado E?

I have two Argons, but don't have enough experience them to speak with certainty. Also, they have actions unlike any of my other rods, so I haven't yet determine how the slower / soft actions impact the perception of sensitivity. My first Argon was the 6'11 MH Finesse spinning rod. It has a lot of backbone, but a very soft tip. Doing the standard tap & drag tests on the carpet, it is hard it gauge sensitivity. In its limited time at the water, I felt more than I expected when using a Senko. On the other hand, I'm blown away by the Argon 6'9" Crankbait rod. It's got a very light blank and rated only to only 15lb. I feel more of the crankbait and the bottom than I do with my Fenwick Techna AV 7'0" MF rod. The Techna AV is much beefier. The AFCB69C is also very good with a Senko & small weightless plastics. Although it is not as sensitive as my Kistler Helium II LTX, it is the rod I can't wait to put into my hands again Not apples to apples, but similar blank size/weight, I feel the AFCB69C was probably more sensitive than my Crucial 6'6" MXF spinning rod. Since I had been using the AFBC69C, my new to me IMX SJR723 did not seem to live up to the hype (not complaining though ). The AFCB69C with a Revo balanced just at the hook hanger, about 1 1/2 inches up the blank from the reel seat. The AFF611S balances about 4 inches up from the stem? of a 2500 size reel. It is light, but not as light as the crankbait rod. Obviously, I need more experience with these rods to post definitive impressions, but yesterday I almost ordered another Crankbait Argon. I'm still not sure about keeping the Finesse spinning rod because I'm not confident I need a rod with such a soft tip. I'm thinking Shakey head and trebles. BTW, these Argon rods are different in that the Crankbait rod has a slender, stiffer blank with a slower action. On the other hand, the Finesse rod has a beefier blank and faster action, but a softer tip. Due to the Argon Crankbait and LTX rods, for the time beining my two Techna AV's have gone to the "not in service" section of my rod rack. I'm curious about the Argon worm rods where sensitivity is so important. Leon

I like my Brownings, but in all honesty I would trade them both for one Core 51 I think of them as alternatives to a Pro Qualifier or the new Revo & Patriarch. They are not for everyone, but (so far) work for me. It's still a gamble to see how well they last.