Jig Man

People are always upgrading to the latest and greatest. There are lots of really good used units out there that can be had for that kind of money. Check the flea market here and for sale forums on other sites.

The Pitzen is just one step less than the San Diego jam and just as strong. I can tie it with gloves on in just a few seconds. I is not real Arig friendly but I don’t know what is.

To answer your question, in my opinion the best budget fluorocarbon line is Seaguar red label. I have it on at least 12 setups and it works just fine.

I use the Pitzen knot for all lines.

I have had this for several years. They told me to drink lots of water. Mine isn’t bad enough to take me out but is very annoying.

I talked to a Zman guy and got the Flambeau info last year. I ordered 4 of their boxes and put some of my Zman baits in them. It took longer but all 4 have warped. In the original package my worms got flat and stuck together. I like their baits but they are hard keepers.

Some one has been smoking too much weed.

I catch most of my spots on spinner baits. The chatter baits aren’t working this year for me.

Mine don’t last long enough to need painted.

I’ve been pouring plastic for a long time. I don’t use any thing on them. I’ve tried it with and without scent. I can find no difference.

Do you run Quick Kleen and Quick Care in your motor?

I used to smoke molds with marginal success. After cadman turned me on to Frankfort Arsenal Drop Out spray I quit and now use it. Smoke did not work on my Poison Tail molds. Drop Out did.

I make my own. I use from 1/4 to 1/2 oz with 2/0 to 5/0 hooks depending upon the bait. Brush hogs, baby brush hogs and paca craws have worked best for me. I have to hop or drag it to get bites. Swimming like Tommy B. gets me nowhere.

Me too. I resize them then download to the site.

If you want to break it in properly, clean it after every 5 rounds and clean out the copper every 25 rounds up to the first 100 rounds. That will improve your groups.

My partner and I had some 6’6” Falcon Lowriders that fit that description. However, over time we both sold them opting for longer rods.

Even with a swing away tongue a 20’ is as long as I want in my garage and it is deeper than most garages.

I chose a 20’4” boat with a 250 four stroke back in 2016.

You can build one for about $30.

I would take it to a shop and have it checked out. Even if it has a cylinder down it can be rebuilt and probably go for many more years.

I tried several and liked none, so I bought the Midwest Finesse jig mold so I could make them the way I wanted them. I use 3 sizes of hooks 2, 1, and 1/0 depending on the type of area I am fishing.

I saw a guy with one that must have been over 3 feet long. I don’t know what he did when motoring. I only saw him fishing.

It will be easier for you if you get heads without a keeper and just use super glue gel. My Midweat Finesse mold came with keeper slots I filled them with silicone. I have had TRDs last 2 days without any reglueing.

Have you considered moving one of your units to the front? Do you need all of them where they are?

I recently moved from the Lowrance world to the Humminbird world. I started out by getting a Minn Kota ulterra because I had some broken ribs which did not heal properly. I needed a motor that would deploy and stow by itself. I ran it with my Low units and quickly found out that I was missing out on a bunch of options. I bought a Bird and a new ipilot head for my Ulterra. Wow the way they work together is amazing. My point here is since you are making big changes anyway, go with units that will work together so that you can get the most out of them.